P15-D24
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Rear Axle Fundamentals.pdf View File Mopar factory Service Reference Book Rear Axle Fundamentals Submitter P15-D24 Submitted 07/08/2017 Category Reference Information
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Version 1.0.0
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Mopar factory Service Reference Book Rear Axle Fundamentals -
Pre pressurize the oil gallery from an external source. It's covered in the earlier factory manuals, don't know about the '57 manual. Only real way to protect those new bearing.
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They pop up every once in a while, but because they are so hard to find they are expensive. Just depends how bad you want a set.
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Read this first: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/
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Our software vendor, Invision Power Services, discontinued their chat product offering in May.
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Syncro is bad. To confirm double clutch it and see if it stop grinding.
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And it would be pretty hard to get the block hot before installing the head
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I think you're miss reading it. The hot sequence is for the final tighting sequence after it has been run and come up to operating temp.
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Really, what page in the manual? I have never seen them torqued hot. I start at around 50, then work up to the final 72 (if remember correctly) in three passes. Also make sure you follow the correct sequence, starting at the center and working outward in a circle.
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Pull the shoes (use a wheel cylinder clamps so the pistons don't pop out) and see if the still fit inside the brake drum. They should fit without any gaps. If not they need to be turned to the drum. However, you should first turn the drum to make sure it is perfectly round.
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You need to compare the cups and push rods of the new and old cylinders. I bet you will find the cups have a deeper recess and/or rods are longer than the originals.
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1/2" dowel on each side. Drive them out with a drift punch and you can remove it.
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What are you running, exact browser version and operating system version? -
Red arrow points to breadcrumb. Like the old fairy tale it's a path back to where you started when your in the forest. If your getting logged out, usually it means cookies are not enable or are corrupted and need to be deleted. Next time you log in it will be re-created.
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Watch my machinist remove a oil gallery pipe plug with a torch. As PA stated, heated it cherry red, let it cool briefly and it came right out. I had been fighting it for days. Whole thing took about 30 seconds.
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Correction, according to my POC judging reference info it is only paint. "Steering wheel column, handbrake and cowl vent handle along with center of dash was Vogue Brown. This brown has an ultra fine gold metallic mist mixed into it, and extremely hard to duplicate."
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I think when it pops up their is an option "Don't show this window again". And your sure you don't have notifications active on your browser?
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Mouse over your user name in the upper hand corner and select Account Settings. On the right under Other Setting select Notification Settings. Select the options you want. You may also need to turn off your web browser notifications if you have them enabled.
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for his recent donation! These really help as ad revenue is not consistent and helps back fill the slower months. Thank you, GT
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For your very generous forum donation. These donation help keep the site online and your help is really appreciated. Thank you, GT
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Pretty sure the dark stripe is also a woodgrain. I have to dig around in my reference info to get the wood type.
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Wonder why center carb isn't hooked up? No fuel line. Also anyone know what the brass angle fitting coming out of the base of the carbs?
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Can't use the stick on flat weights?
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Just run a tube and flap, can even use a radial with the correct setup. Stockton Wheels make modern replacements, but they are pretty pricey. lot more than tubes and flaps.