timkingsbury

On 1/13/2022 at 8:52 AM, Road toad said:

Great effort on the shifter. I’m not a fan of 3 on the tree. 
A factory floor shifter was one of the appeals for me when I bought my ‘38 Dodge Coupe 35 years ago and my ‘61 Dodge Lancer 20 years ago. 
I did have the good sense to order an A833 4 speed overdrive adapter from George Asch before the option wasn’t available anymore. I have an 8 3/4 rear with e-brake for it finally so I can proceed with the swap. 
I am sorry to hear of your fight with Lyme disease. 
I have had my share of health issues that keep me from playing with my fleet of old mopars. 
My brother had Lyme destroy his life for a few years until he found a holistic Dr. that found that the simple and cheap drug used to help alcoholics kick the habit is the best solution. Unfortunately hard to get now in the US because drug companies don’t make much money on it. He had to get it from Canada. 
You definitely can not drink alcohol while taking this drug but it could be a game changer if the establishment medical community would step up. 
Good luck and be well.

The good news is the A833 options is still very much available.    My dad Eddy put one in my Mom's 1956 Fargo in 1975, and George Asche and my Dad were great friends and George has been making the adapter plates for over 30 years now in two formats.  1 for a pickup and 1 for the car bell housing. You can find that option elsewhere on my blog.  He has sold hundreds of them and still does, so if that is a direction someone wants to take, that is still available today.

On 1/9/2022 at 7:00 PM, pflaming said:

I have a shifter for an R!0 roughly fabricated to work but not to show. But since i dont have an over drive in my suburban and no other car tp put it one, will not take the time to refine it. LIke you, I now live a life of manitanence.  I go to the shop maybe several times a week now. Maybe time will heal the Lyme infection. Can only wait that outl. 

 

Paul

I completely understand and while its easy for me to lay my hand on an r10g1 or a straight 3 speed, its not something i personally need and so its tough to  devote the time to it as i just have too much to deal with these days.    I do hope you have  a treatment plan for the Lyme disease as it can be a huge issue and sometimes people are tested several times, it shows negative and then all of a sudden they test positive.  I  have had a few close friends get it and the longer it takes to diagnose it the tougher it is to tackle and though there are several  antibiotics approved in the states for it.   Im sure you have done the search many times  although like so much there is as much misinformation as information.  But trusted sources are out there   Treatment for erythema migrans | Lyme Disease | CDC

1 hour ago, 50plymouth said:

Sadly I've sold my 50 Plymouth and wagon but this offset air cleaner would have been a huge find when I had my Plymouth.  

 

If you can get the air cleaner with the offset bottom , very cool 30s star top (huge key) and an element for $200 or under I think you have hit a home run.  

 

Just the banged up old ones with out an offset I've seen them sell for north of that and nice ones running up over $500 although how many are sold at that price is a good question .

 

Potentially a value added people could get them powder coated to match their car so if you sold them black  and/or chrome bit also had them so they were ready powder coat or be painted that's a great option. 

Im sorry to hear that Paul, but believe me I completely understand.  On the air cleaner,   that is a reasonable target.   The challenge is most  air filters are made off shore where you need to over thousands to make  the project viable.      This project just is not going to be of a scale that your going out to place the minimum order quantities  in the thousands, which means a much smaller run and cost for tooling and dies for the run that has to be spread over the run.

I know what the star tops costed, which was a buddy that owns a manufacturing company who when asked if he could make them, he said let me get back to you.  Next thing he showed up with tops and had invested a stupid amount in tooling to produce them. Of course he wanted a set and one of our AoK triples so that was his motivation, more than trying to make it a profitable or even a break even project.

For the offset bases that direction wont work so the search is on for a few different options to make something of a decent quality which we can add a commercially available air filter element and a star top.   The  idea of having them so that they are ready to paint or powder coat is likely a good suggestion  as you are right a lot of people might like them the same color as their car. 

With that   feel free folks,  if you have a floor shift concept that works for a straight 3 speed or a r10g1 overdrive (That came in the 1952-56  Plymouth that are so popular from the 1939 -  1956 cars)  post away!

Thanks to Shirley  aka  Plymouth#43 who called me to wish me a Happy New Years, and reminded me that I was supposed to put up a couple of pictures of earlier overdrives,  I have updated the  original rough spotters guide blog entry with a bunch more pictures and a little more information.  Primarily  on the mounting of the emergency brake cable with up and including 1937 was on the right side  and then for the 1938  model year the emergency brake was mounted on the left side.    Which of course was the answer to the question - "for my new 1937 overdrive should it not have a floor mounted emergency brake"  and the answer was that yes for 1937 for the emergency/parking brake was floor mounted and the mount was on the right side of the  brake drum.  Of course right side is determined when a driver  in North America is sitting in the car.  In north american that would see the driver sitting in the left side of the car and the passenger on the right hand side.    Of course if your in England,  Australia etc,  the  driver is sitting in the right side of the car, but their right arm is of course, still on the right side.     

In other words  labelling things as drivers side and passenger side can be problematic, but if you are thinking of sitting in the car and facing the front windshield, no matter what the configuration of the driver and passenger is, the right side is always the right side.

Thanks Shirley  and looking forward to seeing the 1937 soon !

7 hours ago, Matt said:

So, has anyone released a floor shift conversion? 

 

I'd like to purchase ASAP. 1953 Dodge Meadowbrook standard 3 speed no overdrive.

 

-Trans # 1188238-1

 

Please text or email me. 

 

Mr2trd91@hotmail.com

(586)873-5820

 

Matt.

You can  also swap your tranny out, put in an Aluminum A833 4 speed which is floor shift and gives you overdrive .  Same blog just a different topic.

4 hours ago, Matt said:

Who made this kit? Is it available for purchase!?  Thank you! 

The person who made that, made it as a 1 off and  didnt express any interest in making more. The one at the top of the thread was made by

pflaming - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com

and I cant tell you if he would have interest in helping you make the floor shift for what is normally a column shift tranny.

8 hours ago, Tony Montana said:

Thanks for the kind words Tim!

No problem Tony...  Just calling it as I see it.

if it was crap, or creating parts that there is no need for, Id  have to say so.. all though as diplomatically as I can.. lol

But this is truly the #1  performance  offering I have seen in the last 50 years and i am including  development of F-heads, and a ton of stuff that has been developed even if it was in small batches.        As you know I am not a 23 1/2" platform guy but  this combination of high high end rods and pistons, are just for me legendary parts.  

When we were building our rear engine dragster  30 years ago, if I could have gotten  these for a 265 in 125 over for $10,000   I would have had a set in a New York minute.  Heck I had guys back then and surprisingly recently mention a billet crank. My reply -  why ?       The 265 crank is forged, balanced to a gram from the factory, and  I can do everything with that crank I need.     Heck we paid $2500 for Venolia top fuel grade coated pistons and rings and had to buy several sets and these pistons are way above those.  Not to mention Venolia  is not longer in business after being the NHRA top fuel pistons source for decades..

Add this level of rods with the pistons  as a "tag team" that your doing and this is  incredible.     Heck I would bet the farm if I put a set in a rock stock engine it would last longer,  rev better and get better fuel mileage. Of course that isnt what the market it, but the point is these are parts that  if back in the day from Walter Chrysler to every Engineer who was involved with Flathead (L-Head) motor could see these they would be saluting you..

So kind words..  Id say well deserved praise....   

15 hours ago, lostviking said:

WOW!

That it is..  Tony has spent a ton of time and energy  with  Carrillo.  They are a company that get calls every day with people dreaming about custom parts but usually with no real intention to purchase them which means just to get them to work on a project like this, you need to have a major reputation, willing to spend time and money just to get them to spend time on such a project.    My guess was they would cost $1000  a hole.  While I am sure most will think its expensive, Tony put in the work and the costs are far less than what I expected. 

To put in context, the Venola Top Fuel Pistons, in our Dragster were $2400  a set of 6. That was 25 years ago and we had to buy 3 sets,  so to me its 

a Mopar Miracle that this project became a reality.                

On 3/19/2018 at 9:21 PM, pflaming said:

These designs are way over designed and none for an R 10. I have fabricated one for my B3B, with R10 overdrive. It will be on display at Tims BBQ. Parts are at a machine shop now getting "professionalized. 

 

 

Howdy. Did you ever get your floor shift finished ?

Hi .  The adapter plate will mount to a fluid drive bell housing and an a833 aluminum 4 speed will connect you to the adapter plate . BUT there is no long input shaft for an a833 transmission so it's not viable. The fluid drive and fluid drive bell housing would need to be replaced. You then need a standard flywheel , pressure plate and the a fine spline clutch . Your throw out bearing is a long one to accomodate the long transmission input shaft so the throw out bearing needs to be replaced with a straight standard throw out bearing . Sorry it's not an easy swap for a fluid drive car .

Well folks -   A little progress report.  After getting our customer orders locked in with the foundry we  got a load of casting Aluminum from

Alcan in Hamilton Ontario Canada on its way to California.  The foam cores  ( the yellow piece in the picture above)  were produced and the foundry are now scheduled to have the intake casting finished next week.  They will then be off to be heat treated and then

shipped to Pennsylvania where we will have carb side and block side of the manifold all machined.  Then for most the carb mounts drilled and tapped before they are packed up and shipped out to customers.

This turned out to be a large order with over 150 intakes (duals and triples) , with a lot of linkage and customer carbs rebuilt

by George to wrap up what is likely our last run of AoK intakes, at least for the foreseeable future.

For those kicking themselves for not ordering one, we have a tiny bit of good news.   There are two AoK triples for the 25 1/2" motor and two AoK dual carb intakes for the 23 1/2" motors available as of today -  December 8th 2020.  Its too long of a story how we will wind yo with 2 extra or each and as George and I both said -  who cares if we sell them because we likely should put the $2,400 into the pot and keep them.   But.. instead of hoarding them we will open it up to the public.

The expected shipping will be early in 2021.

A side item -  if you have surplus Carter Ball and Ball carbs that are 3 bolt bases (center to bottom carb sections) that you

can part with please let us know. Were looking for good rebuijdable cores for custoners,

Thanks

Tim

Since I have been asked by a few for specifications for some of our more popular cam grinds,  or in a couple of cases, people are curious as to what

the specifications are, here they are....     While a lot hide behind names of the cam they sell, honestly,  happy to hand out the cam details.  If you can

find a computerized cam grinder you should be able to cut any of these from the detail...    so as my Grandfather would say -  knock yourself out!

1)    .380 - Mild and we likely sell the most of these. It would be a .380 lift cam which is going to give you 4500 rpm. It’s closest comparison would be to the Isky 3/4 mile cam. It’s been around a long time and has a quicker rev over stock. It was historically for stock car racing.  For most guys this is where George steers them, because most guys think they want power.. but they want to start their car  and not hear it running.  Tons of guys call this cam a race cam..  It’s far from that.  The tech side =  242 duration and .380 lift

2)    400 -   Higher lift and increased duration cam,  which was use for drag racing in the later 50s and early 60s. Your starting to get a little lumpy at idle, it will idle down but you need a fresh rebuild as this is the point where your starting to test the limits of a flathead This is a modified  version of the Scholler full race cam -  stock car racing -  Higher lift and increased duration (Intake - open at 18 degrees, closes at 54 degree. Exhaust opens at 54 degrees and closes at 18 degrees -  duration is 252 and lift is 400

3)    435  - Tim’s 49 Plymouth & Harry Heins #90 cam.  It is a little lumpy and still streetable, but it is definitely aggressive, with a .435 lift,so it will crank to over 6000rpm.  This was a cam was developed from tweaking a full race cam from the 1950s and 1960s and was what Harry Hein #90 used at the end of his career. Harry is in the NASCAR hall of fame and George's uncle.  Tech info - intake open 20 degrees closes at 58,  exhaust opens at 58 and closes at 20 degrees.  258 duration .435 lift

4)    375 ½ mile  “1023”-  this was a stock car cam or the modified .375 cam  increasing duration instead of lift,  which will give you a more rev taking you to the  6000-6500 rpm range. It was for quick bursts coming out of the corners at stock car tracks.  Barely idles at 1000rpm. Not for  street use although it has been used by some on the street.. aka  Harry Hein’s personal car. It was designed for use on ½ mile and longer tracks. tech specs  -  intake opens at 20 degrees and closes at 50 degrees, and exhaust opens at 57  degrees and closes at 13 degrees,   Duration .250 and lift is .375. Stock lift (which is 375) and played with the duration and the intake and exhaust opening. If you ever decide to go blower, this isn't a bad cam.

5)    430 -   Briggs and Stratton – Tractor Pull Grind was born out of looking at cams from different manufactures and believe it or not Briggs and Stratton made a high lift higher torque cam. Thus was born from using other performance Mopar  cams and the Briggs and Stratton cam. Its an extreme lift cam, with big  torque pattern at slightly higher rev than a stock Mopar truck cam.  It is here where the engine modification has an effect on engine vacuum. 320 duration 430 lift. This cam would likely be questionable to putting it on the street.

6)    446 – This  is the most extreme cam likely ever made for a Flathead Mopar -  We call if the AoK Velociraptor Grind .  It is tough to get it to idle below 22-2300 rpm, and we have with a ton of work gotten our dragster to idle around 2000 rpm. It will rev to 7200 + rpm and we have tossed almost 1500 cfm of carburation at it.  You can run an engine on alcohol and will need 3 carbs and need to shift to 6 exhaust pipes for at least 42” and if it’s going into an exhaust system it will need to be large duals after the 42”s  of 1 ½’ pipes. Tech  info - intake opens 30 degrees and closes at 70 degrees, and exhaust opens at 70 and  closes at 30 degrees,  280 duration and 446 lift

If your running 3,4,5 or 6 -  you may want to print yourself off this bumper sticker!

Im honestly not sure about a 1979 dodge van.  

I know long ago when we were doing them here was the this of the a833's we had researched as working.  I will attach that document.

The overdrive configuration with a 23-spline input appeared in these vehicles:
o 1975 to 1979 Valiant, Duster, Dart, Scamp, Swinger, Volare, Aspen (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o 1975 to 1987 Dodge light-duty pickups and Dodge and Plymouth Vans (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o 1977 to 1979 Diplomat and LeBaron (3.09:1 ratio first gear)

A p20 bell housing should be just fine 

Unfortunately I do not have an adapter plate  with me to check the hole size of it either..  Ill send you a pm and try and work through this for you.

Chrysler a833 4speed.docx

Well what is the a833 out of ?  Is it one out of a mopar or the one out of a GM ?   what bell housing do you have ?  Is it one like  in the bog above or this original version ?

Howdy belvedere666 that black center section goes into the bell housing hole.   Fred just sat the adapter plate on the tranny, but the plate would bolt up to the bellhousing 1st

since I keep being asked for the technical breakdown of T5  transmissions I will cave and post it here even though

its clearly not what this blog is about.

This is the splits of the average mopar 3 speed

Plymouths 1936 – 1940

1^st 2.57

2^nd  1.55

3^rd 1.00

Plymouths 1941

1^st 2.57

2^nd 1.83

3^rd 1.00

Plymouth 1942 -1954

1st....2.57
2nd...1.83
3rd...1.0
reverse 3.48

T-5 Transmission Application Chart (attached)

overdrive info - including a833 and t5 information.docx

there are the splits of the aluminum a833 4 speed with overdrive  and comparing to the earlier Plymouths factory 3 speed (without overdrive)

Plymouths 1936 – 1940

1^st 2.57

2^nd  1.55

3^rd 1.00

Plymouths 1941

1^st 2.57

2^nd 1.83

3^rd 1.00

Plymouth 1942 -1954

1st....2.57
2nd...1.83
3rd...1.0
reverse 3.48

So here is the a833 primer stuff !


Aluminum cased a833's with overdrive  started part way into 1975 thru  mid 1987

Gear splits 1st: 3.09:1,  2nd:  1.67:1  3rd: 1:1   4th: 0.73:1 (Trucks used a 0.71:1 fourth)


The overdrive configuration with a 23-spline input appeared in these vehicles:
o 1975 to 1979 Valiant, Duster, Dart, Scamp, Swinger, Volare, Aspen (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o 1975 to 1987 Dodge light-duty pickups and Dodge and Plymouth Vans (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o 1977 to 1979 Diplomat and LeBaron (3.09:1 ratio first gear)

Hi Folks -  I likely should have updated this back before Christmas.  100% of the AoK triples are sold out.  The 1st batch of those came out in 2000 and there has

been 5 or 6  runs of them done.   The triple is for the 25 1/2:"  Canadian engine which starting in 1936 was on Chryslers, Desoto,  heavier Dodge trucks and in Canada, add Dodge Cars,  Plymouth cars (other than convertibles), all Dodge and Fargo trucks unless you were talking the super big block that is a series of 331ci, 377ci and later 413ci.    The AoK dual carb intake for the USA 23 1/2" block has been out a few years and there are 2 or 3 batches of those made.         Unfortunately the foam core casting supplier has changed from our original supplier.  He retired after his wife passed away. The next supplier has gone up in costs, needed significant molding enhancements before they took over and now want

even more changes. So until we resolve that situation,  or find a new supplier were sitting sold out.  We have a waiting list right now.  It costs nothing to be on it.   If we run off another round of both, then we will get people to firm up.  I hate to say never, but it is possible a next run is a last run.  From rock stock engines, right back to 1936 engines on the 25 1/2" front to full blown race engines, the AoK triple has proven its the best intake ever made for the Chrysler based flathead.  The AoK dual will now around 5 years experience has shown

in the field to be what our tests of over 25 intakes, from flow bench to dyno testing showed.  It to is the best dual carb intake ever made for the 23 1/2" USA flathead Mopar

and honestly there is nothing close.

So if you want on our waiting list, please email me at fargopickupking@yahoo.com

As a final note, right now we have 52 triples and 70 dual intakes on that waiting list that we started early last fall

On 8/2/2018 at 9:51 PM, tinlizzy said:

any idea where you can find a dual intake for a 251 cubic inch engine?

 

George Asche can make you one out of your stock intake,  You can do it integrated with your exhaust and split them internally and added a second pipe,  or do it with headers.

In terms of an aftermarket intake,  Eddie Edmunds made a decent on and I do see them up for sale from time to time, although they tend to be pricy. The factory dual carb and dual exhaust manifolds that came on the 1952-1956 trucks are also available from time to time, but big time pricy.  I know a guy who has a fully restored setup, from carbs to linkage to cross over pipe and dual exhaust but your looking at $3500.  The fentons or offy or other low profile intakes I wouldnt touch with a ten foot pole.   They loose too much torque. 

In terms of our AoK plans, we wont be making a dual carb intake.  Our triple works

so well on everything from a 201, though to the later 238/250/265 series it just doesnt make financial sense for us to develop a dual.

Finally sorry for the late reply. I have not been on the forum much this year.

On 10/8/2018 at 12:29 PM, Look said:

Thanks Tim !

Just found this clutch kit for 80$, quite nice price ?

I will rethink the rear axle, good point about the leaf spring width !

Does the stock transmission crossmember require lots of grinding & hammering or just a minor tune ? ?

We have had 1950 Plymouths that required nothing, and 1 that required a bit of modification (grinding) on one sport of the cross member. I am not sure if the case of

some of the A833 transmissions have slight differences. 

You can use any 23 spline (fine spline clutch) from the 1960s and newer. The current one you have is a course spline that was from the 1950s and older. I would use

the biggest clutch your pressure plate will take. The last one we put in was for a 1966 dodge cornet rt clutch (10 ½”) and it came with a  pressure plate as the one that was in the car was in rough condition.   It  came from napa  and was listed as a clutch pack although there are lots of great and inexpensive options available.   If your current pressure plate is 

in decent shape then likely a 10 1/2"  clutch will work fine and they are readily available from all the major part suppliers.

I really dont know the width of a jeep cherokee.   Here is a handy chart for a lot of the cars which gives you the widths and that is the key for you is making sure you have 

the track width close. Having the spring widths the same is also a nice thing as it saves more work.  In terms of drive shaft its just a case of having the yoke with 

the finer spline for the transmission and the rear end. So  measure your spring widths and your track width and compare them to the jeep.  Personally  I prefer going to

a car version  and depending on what your doing engine wise,  likely around the 3:55 or 3:73 ratio.  One of the mistakes guys do is going to something 3:23 or 2:73 and 

you suddenly have a dog at lower speeds. So unless your really building a performance engine  3:55 would be as low a number as I would suggest.

Hope that helps get you rolling.

Tim

Yes they are ...  There are some bell housings it does not fit. Primarily the larger trucks.     Feel free to drop me a note directly at fargopickupking@yahoo.com as I am

not on the site often these  days

They are so.  Car or truck version