Oldguy48

Great idea....

The sill mats on my P15 were too far gone to reuse.  I cut sheet metal pieces in the original shape, and used contact adhesive to secure rubber mat material I purchased from Lowes.  Attached the new sills with sheet metal screws/finish washers, and I'm pleased with how they turned out.  If I can locate a photo, I'll post it.

Not sure if this will help you, but on my P15 Plymouth, we used a rear seat from  a 1995 Pontiac Bonneville.  We  shortened  the seat, and then had the upholstery shop reattach the fabric. (There originally was a built-in armrest in the center).  Required a bit of carpentry work to build a base for support, and the proper height.  I'm very pleased how it turned out.  I don't have any other pictures of the modification, but maybe it will give you an idea for your D24

I would suggest not using one of the inexpensive "Mr. Gasket" pulse type fuel pumps.  I installed one on my car, and it failed after a few months.  I replaced it with an Edelbrock rotary pump unit, and have no problems.  I'm not certain what pressure the P15 carburetor likes, but I am not using a regulator, and the pump is feeding an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor (On a SBC).  Seems to work just fine!

I would also suggest wiring the pump through a Ford inertia switch, that will shut off the pump in the event of a collision.  They are easy to find in Ford Explorers, and Rangers at your local "Pick & Pull".

There are no "Dumb Questions".  Dumb is when you are hesitant to ask questions about something you aren't sure of.  Asking questions can prevent a lot of mistakes.?

Consider taking a fire extinguisher along with you!

I could be mistaken about this, but I think the Special Deluxe P15s used the 10" caps, while the lesser Deluxe models used the 9" caps.  Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!!

My mechanic is still convinced there is too much play in the upper control arm bushings,  He didn't actually measure anything, hence I'm skeptical of his opinion.  I have a difficult time physically with crawlling under the car, so I'm going to enlist my son-in-law to take a look.  I may ultimately take the car to another shop that is more familiar with these vehicles.  Kinda lilke getting a second opinion from your doctor!  There could possibly be too much wear in those bushings, but I need it to be checked out more thoroughly.  I'm just really frustrated that I'm unable to legally drive the car right now.  I honestly do not believe that the car has any safety issues whatsoever, but we'll see!!  Depending on the outcome, I may not be a customer of my current shop ever again.(But I'll reserve judgement pending further investigation!)

I'm thankful for the replys to my question.  I intend to pay a visit to the inspection shop, armed with this information.  Perhaps the old girl will be on the road again soon!!

Thank you again for the responses!

The car is titled as a Street Rod, so it requires a normal vehicle inspection.  I'm hoping minimal repairs will be needed, as my driving it is mainly to local car shows or parades.  My odometer shows only about 100 miles since last year, mainly due to the Covid issue.  Are these special tools a must for this repair?

Wayne Varner

My mechanic tells me that my upper control arm bushings are in need of replacement to pass PA state inspection.  It doesn't look like a job I want to tackle myself.  I know that replacement parts are available, but my repair manual shows some special tools being used.  Are those special tools required for this work?  I'm sure my mechanic doesn't have them.  I'm not certain which direction to go from here.  Must I acquire those special tools?  Any tips or thoughts would be appreciated.  Thank you!

It never occurred to me to put my name, and info on the inside of the hubcap.  That idea is brilliant.  I've never lost a hubcap, (P15, 10" caps) but I'm gonna do that before the car show season, and the Plymouth comes out of hibernation..  Thank you for the idea!!!

You might have luck at a farm store like Tractor Supply.  The last I checked, they still sold 6 Volt tractor batteries, so they might carry 6 Volt chargers as well.  Good luck!

A possibility for mounting your monitor would be in the sun visor.  When I rewired my P15, the upholstery shop built my video monitor into the driver's side sun visor.  It has an accessible power switch, so it is only "on" when I want it.  Works great!

3 hours ago, allbizz49 said:

Good question, I was wondering about the warranty myself. I got one of those spam calls the other day and they said my warranty was about to expire, haha.  

I've gotten a few of those "Extend your Warranty" calls also.  It's funny...when they connect me with a representative, and I try to extend the warranty on my P15, they hang up on me!  Go figure.??

I installed a white LED in mine that illuminates when either the low or high beams are on.  A single wire down the center of the hood that connects to the headlight circuit, depending on ground thru the hood hinges..  It works fine, but if I had it to do over, I would have used 2 LEDs....white for low beams, and red for high beams.  But I rarely drive after dark anymore, so it's OK as is.

Don't overlook the starter solenoid.  It's simply a relay in the starter circuit, but if the internal contacts in it aren't in good condition, the starter will not get enough current to do it's job.  If you measure the voltage across the large terminals of the solenoid when cranking the engine, you should see nearly zero voltage, if it is operating normally.

I recommend Fluke as well.  They aren't cheap, but they are very high quality, and trustworthy.  Buy one, take good care of it, and it will last you a lifetime.

Your car appears to have an alternator rather than a generator.  That probably explains why your electrical system is negative ground.  My thoughts are "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Hoping to get my Plymouth P15 out of hibernation next week   Predicted temperatures over 60 degrees for next week.Finally a break from this wretched cold.  I don't really expect the forecast to be accurate, but hopefully, the temps will be warm enough to get the old gal out of the garage and on the road to shake the winter dust off!!

Here's my first thought, as you will encounter some nasty winter weather in Michigan.  If you retain the 6 volt electrical system, make certain that your battery, battery cables , starter solenoid, battery connections, starter, points, and the remainder of your ignition system is in excellent condition.  I've had prior experience with several (four) Mopar flatheads, and none of them liked cold weather.  Starting spray, dipstick heaters, etc. were necessary to get them started when the weather got cold.  Your experience may vary, but I learned a lot of new swear words trying to start these buggers when the temperatures plummeted.  I'm not trying to discourage you,  but I speak from a lot of experience.  On the other hand, when I could actually get the engines to start, they ran great.  Many times it was necessary to push or pull them, and put the transmission in second gear, and let out the clutch with the ignition switch on..  Apparently, the starter wouldn't crank the engine over fast enough to fire the engine.  But I did expand my vocabulary of swear words exponentially. Good luck with your ride!!!

Wow...that's gotta be the very rare experimental 14 cylinder W block engine.

Rich,  Thank you for posting your article.  I always take my cell phone with me to the garage, but the baby monitor idea is something I never thought of.  And we already have one for our grandson!!  If I use it, I'll just have to be mindful of my language.

I just took my P15 in for her annual PA state inspection.  Then stopped at the local "Loves" station to fill the gas tank. Then parked her in the garage.  Maybe I'll get a chance or two for a little drive before Old Man Winter pays a visit.  No car shows this season, but hopefully next year will be better, if the Covid doesn't get me!!

Would it be possible, when the lock-up occurs, to slightly open a bleeder at one of the wheels to see if the lock-up  clears itself?  It's possible that the brake system pressure is not releasing completely.  Just a thought!