p24-1953

Well it looks like you're right.  Pulled the points and it looks like this metal Spring was not attached firmly to the point so it was slipping loose.  Reinstalled it better and it runs great. Thanks for your help

I changed the points condenser,  coil  and replaced the fuel filter on the truck.  It was running fine but it had been about 5000 miles so I thought while I was busy changing the oil i would do a little preventative maintance.  That was a mistake.   Timing is set to 4btdc, points set at 20.   After this work I have a miss at higher rpms.   The truck now tops out at 40 to 45.  It honestly feels like I hit the rev limiter in a modern car.  You can hear it cutting out. Drop below 40 it purs along fine.  Before this work 55 was not out of the picture.  I rechecked the points and timing. Still had it.  Changed the timing to 0. And set points at 18.  Still there.  Put the old coil back on, old condenser and old fuel filter.  No change still there above 40.

This is not like a lack of fuel.  Its not surging it just starts popping and looses power.

Any thoughts?

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

There are more than three types of rear main seals and it depends on the engine number as to which you use.

 

https://bestgasket.com/rear-main-seals/#chrysler

I see several with my engine  year and size. Is there a way to determine off the engine number?

I know our cars used both types. Is there a known point  when they switched from the rope seals to the newer style?  I have  a leaking rear seal on my 53/hydrive and would like to have the parts before I start tearing it apart.  My local napa is out of either and rock auto dosent have them?  I'm guessing Robert's or dcm is my only option?

Mine is a george asche rebuild.  He mated a overdrive to a hydrive and I thought it had a lock out on it to prevent engaging the first gear engagement. There was no cruching or popping. So I'm hoping it is nothing serious. I wonder if the linkage was off and I need to check to make sure the od cable us all the way in also.....

Took the car to the wash the other day and when I tried to leave I had a hard time going into reverse.  After trying a few times if finally dropped in and I backed up.  Drove home and pulled into the garage.  The entire drive I thought about what could bind up the linkage.  I jacked it up and crawled underneath and on my way down I noticed the three way switch was in the on position on my overdrive underneath the dash.( I must of hit it cleaning) When I flipped turn it back to the auto position  it dropped right into reverse.  I took a quick trip around the block and I never really notice if it dropped into over drive.  ( but I might not have got it up high enough to switch over).

So what damage did I do?  What are the signs of damage and how do I fix it?

Would the damage show up in reverse or in overdrive?

Does anyone know the size of the fender script clip or is it a speed nut?

Got new 2/0 cables last night so I will put them on and let everyone know how it goes. 

9 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

This is rich hartung, I have an autolite catalog but the first thing I need to know is what is the dizzy number on the metalband  such as IGS-xxxx ot IGT-xxxx or what ever is stamped into the plate.

 

From that information i can tell you the correct points, cap roto and condensors to replace with the autolite original manufacture parts.  You can also write to me at Desoto1939@aol.com

 

Rich Hartung

Rich thank you for this info.  I purchased this distributor as NOS and am not disappointed.  It even came in the original autolite box.    I always like to have replacement parts in case of emergency.  The distributor is a Auto-Lite IGS-4204 #955563

34 minutes ago, greg g said:

Should have said his setup was not stock. Be nice to have that info before suggesting long distance trouble shooting...

greg, if it was not stock I would have said so.  I am running a 6v optima.  It is basicly in a preserved state as it sat in 65.  I have rewired it and switched to disc brakes.  Is that stock enough?

1 hour ago, Jerry Roberts said:

The O P mentioned he has an Optima with 1000 CCA .  Probably he has a 12 volt system as when I look up the Optima it doesn't show a battery in 6 volt with 1000 CCA . 

Sorry its 800 cca 1000 cranking amps and yes it is 6v.

just installed the new distributor and she fired up.  Went to stock up the emergency kit of trunk goodies and I noticed that on rock auto they dont have points listed for the 40 distributor, but they have them for the 53 distributor.  Napa on the other hand has the same points listed for both distributors.  Both have 218 engines both have autolite distributors but different  distrbutor numbers.  So the question is " are all autolight distributor points the same" or is there really a difference? 

what is the recommended oil for the small cup on the side of the distributor?  Do we grease them or oil them?

I have a slow crank condition on the 40' but I thought yall could help.  Symptoms:

1) Extremely slow cranking even thought I am using a 1000ca optima battery ( new)

2) battery cables get very hot after starting.

It will start it just takes 5 or 10 secs of cranking.  Timing is set to 4btdc ( set it to 0 and made no difference)

The battery is well grounded.

Bypassed the Selinoid by touching cables together and still supper slow.

The cables look to be the right size, but not sure.  Are all signs leading to undersized battery cables?

I have a slow crank condition on the 40' but I thought yall could help.  Symptoms:

1) Extremely slow cranking even thought I am using a 1000ca optima battery ( new)

2) battery cables get very hot after starting.

It will start it just takes 5 or 10 secs of cranking.  Timing is set to 4btdc ( set it to 0 and made no difference)

The battery is well grounded.

Bypassed the Selinoid by touching cables together and still supper slow.

The cables look to be the right size, but not sure.  Are all signs leading to undersized battery cables?

15 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

change the original springs and the curve will stay the same   IF there was truly any difference...usually this come about as the fuel improved and CR was raised a bit.  

How are you doing, its been 10 years since we last talked.

So when I was told " the 218 distributors will not fit a 230. The 230 shafts are necked down to clear the rotation of the crank."  Or the "actually  the skirts on the pistons that is the area of conflict." Are wrong and there is no conflict?

The distributor shop is telling me I have to much play in my distributor and that I need to replace the bushings and my shaft is also worn.   I have another distributor that I know is in working condition but it is  For a earlier 218  Engine not the 230 that's in it now.  I am being told by some people that this will be OK and others are saying you can't put the to 218 part into the 230.  They were only compatible backwards.  What is right?

On 7/9/2018 at 10:09 AM, Don Coatney said:

On 7/9/2018 at 12:41 PM, Seth g 1947 said:

 ,may need help finding some parts and I’m in western North Carolina 

 

How far west? Im in hillsville va if you need any help.  I started my 53 when i was 15 ( 25 years ago) so i know where you are coming from. 

Yancey

15 minutes ago, greg g said:

air path turn 180 degrees

Greg i am thinking the 180 turn is still there since both mesh units are intact and the oil level will still be at stock level.  

13 minutes ago, dpollo said:

help silence the noise

The open chamber cant be any louder than the el chepo paper filters.   You can hear the wind suction from in the cab.

Im in the process of modifying 2 oil bath filters so they will fit on the dual carb set up.  The plan had been for me to take a 3/8" sliver off of each and weld the two up as one.  Inside the main bowl where the oil is will be still be intact below the oil fill line,  but where i am confused is under this main bowl are two additional chambers that were /are sealed from outside air but had a hole to allow air from these to chambers to enter the  down draft tube.   Here is the question do i need to make these lower chambers "air tight" or  can i  seal the holes in the down draft tube?  Below is my mock up after the initial cuts.

19 hours ago, greg g said:

How does that hydrive setup work with the od?  Do you automatically get a split shift of second gear, before it shifts to high?

The hydrive is not self shifting.  It just is geared and has the tourque convertor so you can stop in third with out using the clutch and take off again clutch free.   I use it in two ways.  Keep it in 2nd to help with the take off speed and use the overdrive to get a little more top end (mostly used in town).  Or start out in third and use the overdrive to cruise at highway speeds.

I almost never shift gears and first is rarely used.

9 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

that is odd as the 53 could have come with it from the factory. Did you go from plain standard 3 spd to overdrive?

No i had back half of a overdrive transmission added to my hydrive by george asch. Im guessing the floor pan was different in the hydrive cars.

On 5/2/2018 at 7:20 PM, dpollo said:

Too bad about the mat.  It is not necessary to remove the floorboard.  The whole job can be done from underneath.

When i added overdrive to my 53 it would not fit with out cutting and modding my floor pan.  The e brake drum hit the floorboard and prevented installation. 

  tonight i was adjusting my idle speed on the 230 and noticed that when reved some times i get a Back fire and it kinda sounds like it is coming  from the driver side or the bottom end.  Could it be backfiring from the oil breather? Or the down draft tube. It does not do this when driving in gear. Nor does it do it every time.  I checked the oil and it looks fine and does not smell like gas.  Any thoughts?  What could cause this?