kencombs

To echo and maybe clarify, compression and flares do not seal on the threads so no sealant needed.  NPT seals on the thread so use sealant if needed.   But, judiciously so that none is allowed to enter the fittings opening.   I try not to have any on the first one or two threads.  

marked out the extra words for you.

The hydraulic solution will work.  But, will not pass inspection in states with that system as the park brake is required to be independent of the service brakes.   Any tiny bypass leak in the master or a leak at any point will result in brake release at some point.   I can do that here as OK has no inspection.   But wouldn't rely on it for anything beyond a few minutes.
 
Parts to do that are available as something similar is use by drag racers to lock front brakes when doing burnouts.  When I messed with that the product was called Line-Loc I think.
 
I know it is not good practice, but I almost never engage the park brake.  I parked my Tundra the other day and wanted to leave it running for a few minutes, so I set the brake and had to look for the release.  It had been that long since last used, I forgot where/how to release it!
 
One solution is a brake on the pinion shaft of the differential.   I have parts of one of those, caliper and disk but will have to fab the brackets as they were only made for Ford 9" as far as I know.   The bracket for that is no where near fitting my Dodge.
 
 

JMHO, but I chose to do the slant six conversion.   Using a GM HEI module to switch the current.  All stock parts that can be replace in minutes on a Sunday if needed.

JMHO, but I chose to do the slant six conversion.   Using a GM HEI module to switch the current.  All stock parts that can be replace in minutes on a Sunday if needed.

So many things can cause a low speed miss.   Low compression due to a valve leakage is one, either a sticky valve, leaky valve or not enough clearance.  Slight leak will cause too much loss past the leak to avoid a miss at low speed, but faster piston upstroke will retain enough mixture to make power.
 
 
Since yours misses only when warm, I think I'd recheck valve clearance and maybe use some magic in the gas to lube the stems.  Can't hurt.
 
edit:   And a compression check of course.   I don't think I've ever encountered a carb issue that caused cylinder to misfire at low speed only.  Unless my understanding of a 'miss' is different than most.   A miss in my vocabulary is one cylinder that fails to produce power.  Carbs have never done that IME.
Maybe a condenser?   Random miss on all rather than one specific?

I don't know for sure, but I've never seen that part in any repo catalogs.  But, they should be fairly easy to form from steel stock..  The welding is the real issue.  One could probably jack the body up a little to allow access.   Of course body off is more convenient for welding and grinding.

Look here:
https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2&page=1

Ford had a huge recall on those, but mine got missed somehow.   Not a rare occurrence at all.   Friend of mine had his catch fire overnight, IN HIS GARAGE.   Huge insurance claim as his house is huge also.

Easiest way to prove this is to use air.  Doesn't take a lot of volume or pressure,  Remove both spark plugs,  Make an adapter from and old plug shell and a quick connect male half.   Some can be tapped with a 1/4"FPT, but most will need a little silver solder, weld or brazing, depending on your tools.  Hook your air source to either of the plug holes.  It'll be obvious when the air into one hole comes out the other!
 
This fitting will be useful for leakdown tests also.
 

Couple of things stick out to me from your post.  First, those are good compression numbers, very good driver condition.   I've seen low mileage rebuilds lower than that.  
 
Second it would be a rare occurrence that black sooty stuff come out of an engine with those numbers   due to oil burning.   Much more likely to be carb related.   Choke not working well, float to high etc.
 
Hard to tell what the knock is long distance, but a telltale for me searching for rod bearing knocks is to rev the engine slowly up to 1500-2k rpm range and just very slightly let I drop 2-400 rpm.  A rod knock will almost always get worse during that decel period.
 
How's the oil pressure?   Loose mains will always show up a very low pressure, not so much as a knock.
 
Before committing to a high dollar rebuild, I'd first do a through examination as suggested by others.
 
 

Couple of things stick out to me from your post.  First, those are good compression numbers, very good driver condition.   I've seen low mileage rebuilds lower than that.  
 
Second it would be a rare occurrence that black sooty stuff come out of an engine with those numbers   due to oil burning.   Much more likely to be carb related.   Choke not working well, float to high etc.
 
Hard to tell what the knock is long distance, but a telltale for me searching for rod bearing knocks is to rev the engine slowly up to 1500-2k rpm range and just very slightly let I drop 2-400 rpm.  A rod knock will almost always get worse during that decel period.
 
How's the oil pressure?   Loose mains will always show up a very low pressure, not so much as a knock.
 
Before committing to a high dollar rebuild, I'd first do a through examination as suggested by others.
 
 

Not the intended use, but if you do any carpentry work at all, pick a size that you like and keep it in the carpentry box.  They work great for pulling nails with small or damaged heads.  Pinch it with the handles vertical, squeeze tight and use the tools jaws as a fulcrum to extract the nail.   When claw hammers slip, this can work.

Little black particles is not normal.   I think a brake flush is in order.   Since I can't feel the seal from here I can't offer an opinion, except to say that dot3 shouldn't attack any parts for a car that age.
The black stuff commonly appears when brake flex lines start to fail internally. 

Sounds to me like you have air in the lines still.  Pumping up the brakes compresses that air, it then pushes fluid back into the reservoir when the pumping stops.   At least we're sure your return port is open!

His description' crank sporadically, and maybe spin for a few seconds, stop, clunk, clunk  maybe catch and start'  sounded to me like solenoid releasing.  
Maybe I misunderstood the phrasing.  
What I've often seen looks and sound like bad battery cables, connections etc.  Weak sound of solenoid 'snapping' in and/or buzzing, maybe a half-hearted attempt roll over.   Relay fixed 'em.

I did, a few posts back.   Don't know if he checked or not.

I never buy the clorinated brake cleaner.  All the brands I have available locally are clearly marked as to clorinated or non.  the non isn't quite as effective as the nasty stuff, but I use it anyway.  Safety first ya know!
 
About the flare nut wrench, this is one of the few places that I think Snap-On prices are warranted.

Not likely, but it's easy to see with a timing light.   Should advance per specs with minimal drifting at set speeds.  One thought since you're now using points.  Examine the spring.  Lots of reports of springs not closing them consistently, sometimes because the spring and conducting strap are separate and not both captured under the nut.  
 
But that should also be visible with a timing light.   Missing ignition events at speed.   IOW, light doesn't flash consistently with the rpm associated with your running issue.

Or, just because 2 nuts are standard equipment for the majority  of old car owners

LUK has a good rep and have been making clutches forever.   Haven't replaced a clutch in a while, but last I used was good.   Good fit, smooth operation etc.
 
Looks like there are several options for that year w/350, type of diaphragm etc.

Here they are Ed, close up to show the diagonal cut.  

123 bucks!   For an empty PVC pipe glue can, a few stock fittings and a piece of hose?   Lots of ways to go if you don't like plastic.  I'd prefer stainless or aluminum tube with welded ends and screw in cap and lower fitting.   Nicely polished of course.   Not stock, but really more like what a car guy would have used in the 60s or so.
 
Same technique and materials make a nice radiator overflow if using a pressurized system.

Check the rear bushing in the trans for wear.   Long shot, but if it can move at all the movement will be different if the trans output is driving it vs the driveshaft driving (power vs coast)   That could cause a closely adjusted park brake to drag.   Long shot as said but possible, or maybe the brake is dragging all the time and a tiny movement causes the sound?  Centering those bands is a pain sometimes.

Good advice already given.  I only offer this:   Please don't drive it until fixed a sudden loss of brakes is not fun, BTDT.   And, add a return spring so you aren't relying on the masters internal spring to return the pedal.