kencombs
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Everything posted by kencombs
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I has '79 2.6 also, orange and black. Neat little truck. Mine had the balance shaft jump time and later dropped the little swirl valve in one cylinder. So, I installed Mustang engine and C4 automatic. Neater little truck then!
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1953 Dodge - What have I got into
kencombs replied to peteandvanessa's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
He's probably concerned with metal fatigue, especially around the rivet holes or center bend of the blade. . I've seen the results of a blade exiting the fan. One was a nice hole right thru the middle of the hood. The other was a nasty gash in the radiator. But, these where 60s fans in the 60s, so age had nothing to do with it. I've always suspected those happened because the fan blade was fractured when the stiffening ribs where stamped into them. Vibration extended that weak spot. Heavier blades may suffer from this more, IMO anyway. -
My experiences with UPS have not been good. Lack of customer service, and once they made that 100buck payout, they will probably not respond to any query as they have closed the case. I changed to Fedex and have had only one out of many shipments with an issue. They cracked a well packed stained glass window, but paid off quickly.
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Just a point of information. Dad and I converted a 54 chev 1t to 12v back in 61. It was used as our shop truck and tow rig for 12 years or so. Many starts 6 days per week. Never had a failure. But, boy it it crank over!
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I like that even your newer cars in the background are Mopar. Our T&C has been a solid little van. Same color as yours. Our grass isn't green yet, just a few weeks though. I had to remove a much smaller tree a couple of weeks ago. Small enough that a shovel, axe and Tundra in 4whl lo got it done! What kind of wood did you use for the chairs? I've thought of making some of those but the material I'd like to use is really expensive here.
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Thanks for the input. In this application, there is really no joint, No two parts being adhered, whether weld or glue. Just a material build to 'flatten' the area that will then be threaded. our comment on the 'over-harden' risk is exactly why I was considering the silicon-bronze filler from my mig. I've brazed cast with 'normal' rod successfully in the past, but it really hard to properly preheat a part as large as the clutch housing and get the brazed area hot enough to bond well. At least it has been for me. Manifolds and small parts are easy, but 50+ lbs takes awhile. I think I'll try the rods I have for my stick machine on a scrap housing and then decide. They are a proprietary rod with no AWS spec, so who knows.
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When I saw you first post, I was expecting you to find piece of tire sidewall. That was a common thing at one time around here.
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I also missed your post. prayers for your recovery. And, let us know how it goes.
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Most rebuilders attached a tag to the block. Two small drilled holes with drive rivets to hold the metal tag. It had the over/under sized for bearings and bore as well as ID of the builder. I've never encountered a altered factory id pad. As a matter of fact, that was (maybe still is) illegal in some states as that number was used to register and title vehicles. There is a special identification used for industrial and farm usage engines. I've seen several for irrigation pumps, combines, airport tugs and even tractors.
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It seems the some high end car makers now specify silicone bronze for structural body part replacement. The lower heat doesn't change the steel properties as would welding. But, my planned use is much different. I would do 'normal' braze, but find it difficult to get parts as large as a clutch housing to the right temp for good adhesion. takes a long time to heat and cool. Mig would be so much faster. And, as mentioned in my first post, stick weld may not be machinable when done. Sure hope someone with some experience chimes in.
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ANSWERED Interesting photos I have run across.
kencombs replied to Don Coatney's topic in Off Topic (OT)
Sure, that's the reason you like it . I believe you. -
Know the feeling. I've worn aids in both ears for over 45 years and the difference is amazing. still can't feel comfortable on the phone however, many words just sound to similar if I can't see lips move. Misunderstandings can easily occur, that's why most of my business dealings are via email. Printed word is much more error free!
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See Post see post 6 above.
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I think there is a post somewhere that details using a stock hub, less drum with an Explorer disk hat bolted on. I'll look some more for that. found it: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/p15-d24-to-95-2001-explorer-disk-conversion.702258/page-2
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Priming is best, 'cause once you remove the cover, air enters and the oil will run to the pan. Vaseline is easiest, just pack it full.
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Lots of people do that. But, it is in direct contrast to the shop manuals' procedure. Clean and dry with nothing to promote ease of movement. The tight fit is to retard rotation. The lube puts all the load on the key instead of the taper fit.
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I've had to fix the same issue. And, had some luck polishing the surfaces by using valve grinding compound. just apply a little to the axle then slip on the drum/hub and rotate a few turns while holding a little inward pressure. remove the hub and carefully and completely remove all the compound. Left a nice polished, matching surface for me.
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I think, but not positive, that they are all 3/8x16.
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Yeah, I've scoured the web and found a lot of info Everything looks good but was hoping for some real life feedback. More on my plans: I'm adding an A833 OD trans to a mid 50s pickup clutch housing. The center hole fits the big front bearing retainer correctly but the housing itself need to be built up in areas where the bolts will go as the mounting flat is too small.. Plan was to use some cast stick rod that is purported to be 'machinable'. Thats important since I'll need to drill, tap and mill the filled area.
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Does anyone have first hand experience with MIG brazing? Silicone bronze may be the best for a project I'm working on due to its' being softer than cast or steel .. It should be easy to drill, tap and grind. I hesitate to invest in a tank of gas and roll of expensive wire if you guys have some negative feedback.
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JMO, it will depend on your need for the truck. towing, heavier loads, high altitudes, lots of stops and starts, extended low speed operation or hilly country may not be pleasant with that high gearing. OTOH, mostly lightly loaded, highway 40MPH and up would be great.
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I think the hole was intended to rectangular, but has some casting flash that makes it look different. I'll be the lower left part is paper thin covering the rest of the hole
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I just noticed in the video that the one tire in view appears to be on the ground. What is the state of the other?
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I can't see the lever, bellcrank etc very well. Going from memory of a little 1t we had when was teenager, I think that spring and linkage allow you to set the throttle to a certain engine speed, but still have the ability to increase the speed with the accelerator pedal. Was useful when using stuff running from the PTO, winch, hydraulic pump etc.
