kencombs

Only happens in reverse? And one wheel breaks free with you try to accelerate? I'd pull the rear drums and inspect for loose/broken parts or fluid leaks. Start with the one opposite the one that breaks free.

According to this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/MoPar-1953-Desoto-Powermaster-Used-Radiator-Core-1494095-/361455039188 It is for a 53 Desoto. And, I confirmed that by finding the number in my 53-63 Hollander book. Edit to add: the DPCD square if for brands Dodge Plymouth Chrysler Desoto. The AC I think is for the radiator manufacturer, The Albert Champion Company.

Or, paint to match the metal around the windshield? Fill the grain, sand really smooth and spray. I'm a long way from this point on my 56, but am following this closely. Great idea on using and forming the plastic. Is it ABS, PVC or something else?

From your description, lack of bubbles in radiator etc, it doesn't really sound like a head gasket. but, if you want to be sure, there are combustion gas test kits/tools for the coolant. $40+ at most parts stores. Or, some may have them for loan.

I mentioned in another thread that air is in my long term plans for my 56 PU. It will be a homegrown system using a 60s/70s style under dash unit with a little compressor from a Tracker. It was on a 1600cc engine an is a very efficient unit. I expect it to be much cheaper that a package from the after market. Search eBay , there are a lot of options in evaporator units.

Not at all interested in aftermarket, even if it existed. It'll be home grown or not at all. I'm really looking to info on what specific parts can be adapted. Assuming there are no reverse rotation water pumps available (safe assumption I think) that fixes part of the belt routing, (over the pulley, not under on the back side) making most current or recent past factory setups unusable without a lot of changes. So might as well start from scratch. I'm sort of fixated on using a Toyota PS pump as it will match my Toy steering gear. Also the little Tracker AC compressor I have. Space is at a premium and those belts waste much less power than multiple v belts. The key items here are the crank pulley and idlers/tensioners. And bracketry of course. Those will be adapted from something, just don't know what yet. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll certainly be looking at Mopar donors.

Local Orielly's has a few paper books left. I'll try them. thanks

I think that ebay joint is for the rear. That's why I mentioned changing the pinion yoke in my earlier post. Change it to a version that takes a modern joint and use the ball andtrunion replacement pictured above on the front.

Anyone tried to rig such a thing? I'm planning on power steering for sure and would like A/C as well. Using a '56 plymouth car engine as a core. It has the bolt on crankshaft pulley, using a 3/8 belt. The bolt pattern for that is the same as the A series V/8s. So I could source a 2 sheave pulley, but that makes the engine longer. A serpentine setup could drive all those in the same length. Yeah, I know, it's a puzzle to get all the stuff mounted and also the tensioner/idler required for the serp belt. But I think overall it would be more compact and they are definitely more efficient, use less HP. I'm wondering if there are any crank pulleys out there that would bolt on to my dampener/balancer? I will go to a u-pull it place and dig, but any clues would be great. BTW, I have the A/c compressor, a little Sanyo from a '95 Tracker and will be using a Toyota PS pump which comes with a serpentine pulley and Alternator is no issue at all. Just that crank pulley that starts it all.

I knew they were rare and pricey, but WOW! I'd be changing to a different driveshaft, rear end too if the pinion yoke can't be changed. Modern u-joints front and rear. edit: just looked at an old Hollander and it looks like a lot of Mopar pinion yokes may work. that is judging from the diff carrier interchange. And several take a more available u-joint.

Check wheels and lugs. Without knowing what wheels and exact hubs are on it, it is possible to have rivets hitting the wheel and causing it not to seat correctly.

Thanks for the pic. Yes, I'm very aware of the HP needs. I'll be running a 56 230(better head) with some milling done, electric instead of mechanical fan, dual carbs and exhaust. Maybe Cam to if I can get on reground for less than an arm and a leg. The AC will be a home brew with a cycling clutch control. that will allow me to use a 'full throttle' switch to disconnect AC under high demand situations. did that on my old 250HP 273/4sp after blowing up a couple of York piston compressors when using 3rd as a passing gear at highway speeds. Totally different question: anyone look at doing a serpintine belt system? Just wondering what pulleys could be adapted. the PS pump and alternator are easy. finding a crank pulley and adapting a water pump pulley would be the biggest issue I think. But, they are efficient and save in overall length. Looking at you pic, and imagining the AC compressor were the alternator is and the alternator between the compressor ad PS pump could work. belt around the outside of the AC, inside to an idle below the water pump and back to the alternator may be doable.

Do you have any pics of the ps pump from the front angle showing belt routing and pulley setup? I plan PS also, but using a Toyota PU box in the stock location and a matching pump with remote res... Would also like to work in an AC compressor at some point. I'm using a 56 core engine so have bolt on pulley with the narrow belt sheave on the crank. that pulley has the same bolt pattern as later v8s so I'm hoping to find a 2 or 3 groove bolt on solution the that part. And the AC compressor planned is a tiny unit off of a Tracker, so maybe there'll be room for everything.

That is perfectly normal. When the clutch is depressed while running in neutral, the gears are all turning. Since there are no synchronizers on first and reverse, you have to wait for the rotation to stop before shifting, or stop it using the second gear sychro as you are doing. Temperature and oil weight has some bearing on how long that wait might be. Light oils let the gears spin longer, cold temps stop them quicker.

Wayyy to high IMO. Keep looking, they are still out there at more reasonable prices. Maybe not the rare truck-0-matic though.

If my internet conversion is correct, that new carb is a steal at 123.13USD!

Girls can do stuff No surprise to me. After 3 daughters, 3 granddaughters, and a couple of greats I can say with confidence: They can do most anything the want to. Just like boys, if they don't have the desire, they can't do it. What was it Henry Ford said? If you think you can or think you can't, you're right.

Good point. It's also possible that the wrong oil is in it. In colder temps, heavy oil can cause that. Conversely, lighter than normal viscosity can effect the way the sychros work. Manual trans have been recommended to use everything from 140 to ATF, depending on design, usage and temp. My planned A833 uses ATF!

I'm not familiar with the red term above? What is its' meaning? And value for our flatties.

I 'm guessing you are in England from terminology. Big end refers to connecting rod, shells refers to rod bearing inserts in U.S. English, or what passes for English here. If so, .010, .020, .030 are common. .040 is available but not as common. In the past ( way past), I've even seen .080, but not for years. Try searching eBay. NOS parts appear from time to time. What size are you needing??

A lot more complicated than one would think. The compressors are 3 phase AC voltage provided by an on-board inverter. I don't know what the input DC voltage is, but I'm sure it is more than 6/12v.

That thing on the tailshaft is the parking brake. Little internal expanding drum brake. Some Mopars have eternal contracting band brakes instead. Trucks Came with 3sp and four speed granny gear transmissions behind the fluid drive setup. But the main drive gear for that application are unique to the fluid drive.

Not normal. Usually due to either being in need of a clutch adjustment or worn synchronizer rings in the trans itself.

I think most any Mopar flathead dampener/balancer will fit the crank. That one looks to be a true dampener with a bonded rubber hub, early ones were not. Most were only pulley holders. My 56 is solid with a bolt on pulley. Would really like to find one like yours though. As long as it fits the crank and has a pulley either made on, or bolt on, you can interchange something else until the rubber bonded type is available. I wouldn't run that one, too much risk of it expanding and damaging the keyway in the crank.

I thought that eby piece was from a tug. I seem to recall that the valve body in those TFs were full manual shift. I wonder if one could be adapted to a 'normal' TF?