DCurrent

I seen that bridge, but thought nothing of it. We have reserved a hotel room for next year.

The wife, I, and my son made a trip today to Gas City, Indiana. It was about 100 miles from my door. The car ran fairly well. I discovered some more work that needs to be done though. If you have never been to the show its well worth the drive. It's a combination show and swap meet. More than you could ever see in two days for sure. The show consisted of 2800 registered cars and even more than that weren't. Lots of shade, food, and a neat atmosphere. If you live close I believe there will still be a lot going on tomorrow.

this is useful info. I would have never guessed the splines had to be matched. I wonder if the OD trans would have this arrow too!

I didn't know the fuel gauge would work with straight 12v. this is good to know. Now all I have to switch over is the heat and amp gauge.

I fixed it. I have no idea what I did, but the thing is working like I thought it should. All I did was take the cover off and move things around a little. Works great! I have made a bit of a wiring schematic for myself. I think after I make an easy to read diagram I'll post it here on the forum. Maybe someone that wants the same turn signal option along with relays to work their headlights and horn could use it. I'm very happy with the brightness of the headlights. The relays seem to make all the difference. I also integrated a fuse panel for the cigarette lighter, turn signal switch, radio, heater, and anything else I might want to add in the future.

Yes it has the little green lights. The red light only comes on when the hazard is on is correct and it blinks as I think it should. The little green lights only blink once when it is flipped into a turning position. It's strange. Everything works good as far as the turn signals and hazards go. I might take it apart one more time and see if I can't figure it out, but if I don't see anything that sticks out to me I'll just leave it alone.

I'm finally about done with my wiring. Lights are brighter and everything works. Halleluiah! I have installed a 900 signal fire turn signal switch. I'm wondering if the idiot light is supposed to light every time the turn signal blinks? It only blinks just once when I make a turn, but always blinks when the hazard lights are on.

I meant the fuel gauge.

The alternator will probably be somewhere under $100 and labor for installing it probably an additional $150 with some modification to be done. Don't forget all the light bulbs will have to be changed (headlights, taillights, courtesy light, dash, back-up, park lights, hood ornament) along with the battery and sending unit in the gas tank. The solenoid for the starter may get you by for a while, but it is recommended that it's changed also. You will likely want a volt meter installed. Also you will want to disconnect your radio, clock, and heater until they are adapted for 12v by either a reducer, or a 12v compatible electrics.

I'm in Ohio. No safety inspections, but turn signals weren't installed on my model. I look at turn signals as an improvement over just simple marker lights. I would think the DOT would agree. I bead blasted my marker light housings today because they were very rusty inside. One of them will work fine with a little work however the other will need replaced. I'm looking for one if anyone has an extra. The rubber grommets were the wrong size and did really nothing for the lights but hold water. I'm thinking this is probably a common problem. Did these have any reflectors in them or just a bare steel originally?

Thanks guys for the diagrams. I have been using both of these exact diagrams for direction. Some of it I have modified for my wants and preference. I'm in the home stretch. All I basically have if buttoning up the parking lights up front along with the headlight wiring to the terminal block. Just a little work left under the dash. I'm trying to make up my mind if I need parking lights up front though. Currently I will have turn signals now and wonder if I really need parking lights. I'm the type that if I turn my lights on I pull them all on. I would only have to route one more wire up front, but I haven't found any double contacts that I like to install in the park light sockets. They are all so chinsy and they just want to either touch one another or don't want to sink with the bulb right. I'd like to rob them out of an old car, but those are few and far between these days. Any ideas?

OK, thanks! I can figure that out.

My guess is it's the high beam indicator light terminal missing. Easy fix is to splice the wire to the high beam wire like Ed suggested.

No idea?

I'm getting a lot of the wiring done. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Anyone got a suggestion as to what size fuse I should hook the flasher up to?

Ed, is your tranny support welded in? Mine is welded in and I just wondered how hard it would go in. I also have to deal with the x member of the frame. Makes me wonder if I'll have to pull the motor to install a OD.

I never even knew we had a blog, but the title "yes I'm a girl" got my attention. Good for you! I like to see girls get their hands dirty with their husbands. I will check your blog out once in a while. Good luck with your project.

I am integrating turn signals into my harness while I'm overhauling it. I have a 900 signal switch. I have some directions that are hard to read for the switch and I'm sure others are using the same switch. It looks like the directions ask for a 180 flasher to be used. I haven't located one and thought the number may be old. I have a 550 flasher which has the three prongs on it and wondered if it would work? Could you tell me what number your flasher has on it? Meanwhile I decided to use the ugly modern relays for the headlights. I could not source another NOS relay like the one I have so I have no choice. I did find plugs for the modern relays much cheaper online than the ones at the parts store. Something to keep in mind if others are thinking the same thing.

update, I proceeded yesterday to decipher the wiring as best as I could to only replace the lighting side of the harness. While doing so I found even more problems yesterday and early this morning. Again bare wires and wires cut short for whatever reason. This morning I come to the conclusion to just replace it all! There was just too much garbage to hunt through and by the time I figured out some of the wiring, I could just do it all. So it's all out. I had even thought about saving the wires coming out of the headlight buckets, but even they were bad. I didn't want to go this way, but doing it this way I'll know what is there and I won't have any fear of a problem down the road or an electrical fire. I should have taken a picture of all the electrical tape I removed. I bet it would add up to 3 or 4 rolls. One question though, I have a NOS relay that will look as if it belongs on the car for headlights. I think there is a need for it. It would probably alleviate some of the load and heat from the headlight switch. The instructions for this relay states that it is for the high beam lights and doesn't really show the need for a relay for the dim side. Is there a need for the dim side? Technically there wasn't a relay installed for either the dim or bright headlights originally, but the car wasn't dealing with 12v either. Should I install this relay on the dim side as that side will be used more often? I likely won't be out at night much with this car anyway.

Yes I caught that Don. Were they the first auto manufacture to do that?

Anyone know if Plymouth was by chance the first manufacturer to have the third brake light?

Great trick and tip! I hadn't thought of that before.

I dove into the wiring issue today. Wow! what a mess! I started with removing the wiring in the truck working my way forward. I am 99.9% positive I found the short issue the car was experiencing. The wires that cross over to supply lights to the right side were bare in spots and melted and burnt. There were so many wires cut, spliced, and re-spliced it was ridicules. The decision to replace all the light wiring was the right decision even thought I wasn't ready to do so. In this whole exercise of removing the wires deciphering some of them didn't prove to be so difficult after removing wires that didn't belong. I have a few questions though. First, was the light on the trunk used as a third brake light, or as a running light? The bulb used only has one filament so I assume it could only be used for one purpose. Secondly, the running lights up front only have one filament. I plan to use these as turn signals. The factory had turn signals as an option. if these are wired correctly should they operate as a turn signal and running lights using one filament, or do I need to find a contact that will accept a two filament bulb? If Ido need to find a contact to fit into the socket where can I find a couple? Thanks

yes I haven't seen any diagram that explains or pictures the p15 switch that I have. If anyone has a picture of a P15 headlight switch with markings I'd like to see it. Im going to have to pull the switch with the wiring attached if I can just to get an idea of what goes where. The problem is that the wiring is wrapped in electrical tape that makes it difficult to both trace the wiring and move things around. In addition to that the wiring has lost it's colored loom and they all look the same when bundled together.

After laying on my back most of the afternoon, and unwrapping wires from electrical tape, and trying to decipher which wire goes where, I think it is best to start the re-wiring process even though I really wasn't ready to do so. It's just too much of a mess to try and do it with not knowing where wires are coming from. Also many of the wires are just stripped of insulation that makes me uncomfortable. thanks for all the help!