DCurrent

Did anyone happen to attend this? It was another huge event this year. The weather was absolutely beautiful. Normally it is high 80s - 90s. Not this year!! Great sleeping weather and awesome for walking and buying stuff. It was one of our best meets yet.

I'm not sure if many of you are familiar with scooters of the 40s and 50s, but if you want to reminisce there is a giant swap meet and show at the Portland Indiana fairgrounds going on this weekend. July 19th and 20th all day. Lots of food and fun stuff to look at. Admission is $4 and you won't see everything. I guarantee it! I personally will be heading over on this Wednesday.

Today I thought I'd get a jump on the install of my new fuel pump so I started removal of the old one. I removed the old one without any problems, but I was curious as to why it wasn't working in the first place. Pressing or pulling the lever down where the cam would depress it, the pump seemed to work. The part where the cam pressed down on it to actuate it looked hardly even worn. I was rather dumbfounded. I could here it exhaling just fine. The spring that returned the lever to it's original position looked odd to me though. It looked as if it could just fall out. Inspecting it a little more I noticed the pin you all were discussing. Mine was almost completely out. I pushed it back in an the pump worked in a totally different manner. I realized I just fixed the problem, but first I wanted to make sure it was assembled the way it should have been with no missing parts. So I pulled the pin out completely and inspected the parts for wear and made sure I assembled it back as it should have been. The stroke to pull the arm down was much shorter and much stiffer with no side to side motion like before. The spring was much firmer. I staked the pin on both sides so it wouldn't slide out again. It was ready to install back in. But first I made sure there was nothing obstructing the fuel line. I pressurized the gas tank and made sure gas came out the other side. Fuel came out with no issues so there was no problem there. Then I proceeded to install the fuel pump again. Hooked the lines back up and installed the glass bowl. O BOY!! It should come alive again. I pressed the starter button and checked for leaks. I didn't see any leaks, but the bowl was about full of gas. Pushed the button some more and there she goes. What a good feeling that was to see it run again. I guess I'll have an extra fuel pump here before long. Nothing wrong with that.

Yep I ordered it from rockauto yesterday. It should be here next Friday. Cost just under $70 with shipping.

Apparently you guys must have bought all the fuel pumps off of ebay since I can't find them now. This isn't good!

Hey guys, it's been a while since I posted. I took the 48 Plymouth out tonight looking forward to a local car show at a eatery place not to far from here. Well we didn't make it. I made it just around the corner and down the block before it quit. I suspect the fuel pump went bad. I took the bowl loose and turned the motor over and no gas. The funny thing is the pump really doesn't look that dirty or old. I hope that pin that everyone is talking about didn't work out. Looks like I'm going to have to get a pump though. I sure am glad they are making them again!!! Darren

Don! I haven't visited the site lately, you have moved? Dang I wish I could attend that Desoto event. It is the same weekend we are going to have the Vintage Motorbike Club meet in Portland, Indiana. Something that I want to attend always, always falls on those dates!!!!! Crap.

Do these lines feed two heaters or is the left side for a temperature setting under the dash? I haven't really noticed these lines before on a Desoto at shows, but there again you don't see many Desoto's at shows either.

Welcome to the forum. This is a great group. Lots of knowledgeable guys, and girls here!

Well it was cold today, but the sun was shining. Few days ago it rained just enough to wash the streets of salt, So I finally got the old car out. The old girl wasn't to happy. I'm not sure if it was the stale gas or a carb problem, but I might have a problem. Hopefully she just didn't like the cold to well, and let me know about it. I don't know. I'll have to take her out next weekend and see if she persists to wanna remain in hibernation. They are talking close to 60 and sunny next Sunday here in Ohio. It is a whole week away though and lately the weather guy hasn't a clue what's going on, but I'm keeping a positive attitude.

I think everyone is familiar with George Ash. He is rebuilding a OD trans for me right now and I'm to pick it up next week. It's the common one everyone is looking for to install in their 46-48 Plymouth to bolt up. Funny thing though I can't remember if it's a r7 or r10,anyway he said 80 and 90 wt. oil was way to heavy. Why? I don't know, but I'll be finding out next week. I do remember him suggesting a diesel oil, and multi wt oil like 20 40, but don't hold me to the multi wt. part.

I'm not sure exactly who runs or maintains this website, but I'm taking time out to thank you! I really enjoy this group and the information this website provides. I have a hard time just letting a few days go by without checking in to see what's new. Your hard work is very much appreciated, and I'm sure you don't get praised often enough. Thanks again, Darren

Keep us informed fsfish66. I will be in the market eventually for my Plymouth. The front springs on mine are weak also and I'll be doing some homework for next winter. Eww, did I say next winter? Bring Summer on first!!!!

Absolutely beautiful, dash is so clean!

You mean that they only zip down Ed?

I'm not sure what the front of the car looks like but I'm liking this car, color and all looks good from the rear. I even like it as a 4 door. Is that original paint and color? I like that color!!!

I'm pretty sure I have seen a car just like this before. Usually several manufacturers made the rear window so that it would zip down, but I don't think they were made to zip out completely. This is just my observation since I have owned my convert paying attention to them. Not real solid facts by any means.

Where is the Hemi? Need pictures of motor (excuse me) engine compartment. LOL

I think if it were me I'd go this route. It's not an easy task to replace these springs and saving $100 give or take a few bucks, isn't worth it to me either. Taking a risk on cheaper springs hoping that they have the right stance, the right compression, and the right size is not for me. I'd hate to do it all over again if it's not right after it's all together. Just my opinion.

I have a hard time posting pictures myself. I'd post more if I didn't find it difficult. I'm likely doing something wrong bc I see others have no issue it seems. On subject, casper I'm surprised that you are able to back any bolts out with your mounts in the state they are. As you take a bolt or nut off try to get a little space between the mount you just loosened making sure it is free one bolt at a time. Slide a putty knife between the body and frame making sure they are separate. All of the mounting points of the body will likely be on the outside of the frame. Take care not to bend the mount or destroy the underside of the body as best as you can. What are your plans after the body is separated from the frame? What will you be supporting the body with after the frame is removed? Body rotisserie? When I see the pictures of your body mounts it gives me concern that your body floor may be weak. Is the floor fairly solid?

I'd say it's the engine seal, but hard to say for sure until the trans and clutch is apart. The oil looks dirty and is on the engine side of the flywheel.

Well list them for sale under the classifieds.

Well I took a peak underneath the Plymouth again. I can tell this is just going to be one of those domino effect projects. My plan was just to install a OD transmission. Then I got to thinking I should rebuild the clutch and I wouldn't have to worry about that for a long time. Yesterday, I was just kinda snooping around under the car while taking notice of the underside. You know, looking for things that'll need fixing in time or attention soon. I already found that the overcenter spring is missing. Then the clutch cover was easy enough to remove, so I did. O BOY! Oil all over the place. That's why my clutch seems to be somewhat chattery when engaging it I suppose. I thought maybe the disc was just near the end of it's life. Now I'm replacing the real main seal (if I can) and pan gasket. Then I'll probably find something else that'll need fixing. I just have a feeling this might be a big can of worms. I hate doing things half way if I know what needs to be done.

The relay can be found here! http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_3.html I agree it sounds like too much and I'm not buying it. Looking for a cheaper alternative, but I gotta get my facts straight first. George has one included in his wire harness for $150, but I'm not sure if his harness will do me any good since my harness is homemade anyway. I'm just trying to find out if this relay is any different than the next. I have a NOS headlight relay from I think the 50s or 60s, and I believe it will work, but still doing homework. I am going to look for the overcenter spring and assisting wire. I just looked at the classifieds and no lead, might just make a wanted ad.

I won't be using the 1950 bell housing, but only the clutch pressure plate and components, along with the disc, and flywheel. The starter on the bellhousing appears as if it is in the same location on both models, so I can assume the flywheels are the same.