TodFitch

1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨

Yes, if you got it back in exactly the same way it came out you should be good.

2 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine.

The trick is to get it clocked properly on installation so that the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire when the engine is at TDC. See the factory service manual for how to do that.

I think fog lights should be smaller than the regular headlights. Not just a little smaller but enough smaller that it is apparent on first glance.

The headlights on your '39 are a bit larger than 7" sealed beams but I don't think quite large enough that the ratio looks right to me to use the 8" Trippe Lite Seniors.

Your neighbor has a cousin in the mountains where we have a cabin. The visit that cousin made cost me about $1500 in repairs last fall.

Believe it or not, there are people in that area that feed them. Sure makes it worse for the rest of us.

4 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said:

How do i find this section?

On the top of the forum web page is a blue band with links to various sections, one says "classifieds". But here is the link if your screen looks different: https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/

Reminder: Requests for parts must be in the classified section. Negotiations for parts should be by PM.

14 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

According to an on-line search FB opened to the general public Sept. 26, 2006 (after starting sometime in 2004).

My profile shows me joining this forum in 2006. But I am pretty sure that I was on the forum earlier and that a change in software used dropped some of that type of information. I started my Plymouth vanity website in 1999 and I am pretty sure the original forum started around that same time and that I found it and joined around 2000.

GTK will have a better handle on the generations of software used by this forum and if things were lost when the original forum software was retired.

edit: Just looked at my profile on the AACA forum and it shows I joined that in January 2000. I believe I joined this forum around that same time.

26 minutes ago, Dan Hiebert said:

Facebook didn't exist when I first joined, I think Zuckerberg was only a gleam in his daddy's eye. I've talked to a few folks that know about the Forum but don't seem to want to join because it isn't FB.  I ask them what kind of info they get from FB versus what they are looking for, usually don't get a sensible answer.  Seems to me they can't grasp how helpful the Forum can be, they lean towards thinking the Forum can't possibly be better than FB just because it existed before FB. 

I too joined this forum before FB existed.

I was working in embedded software in Silicon Valley when FB started and it was really apparent to me that, especially in regards to FB, that "if you are not the customer then you are the product". I have never joined FB, I never will. If someone posts a link to an item at FB I do not follow it. And I take active measures to block FB from tracking me around the web.

24 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

I don't even know what these are. Some sort of extra safety lights for senior drivers? 🤣

I see the smiley so maybe this is a joke. . .

But assuming it isn’t, the TrippLite company made accessory driving lights back in the day. The high end lights, very much in demand nowadays, are the senior line of lights.

Side story: Back in the 1990s I was researching some uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) for work and one of the potential models was made by TrippLite but I had a question I could not answer from their literature so I called the company. The one of the first questions I was asked was how I'd heard about their company/product. I said that I once had a set of TrippLites on my antique car. The sales person had never heard that the company once made those. For what it is worth, they are still in business making power equipment for computer centers.

Gentle reminder: Any offer or request for parts should be done via PM or in the classified ad section.

2 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

Would you mind posting what it says? Just curious. Because the only one you can mix DIY, I know of, is castor + butanol.

I understand that this sounds pretty sketchy, but back then it was actually the commercial fluid recipe, similar to how you would buy antifreeze today - either 50/50 mix, or some concentrate and distilled water

 

Thus far, it looks like regardless of what non-glycol fluid I switch to, I will need to replace the rubber and flush the system. I do need to replace the rear metal lines, due to corrosion, concerns. Not sure if I want to go a full rebuild, at this point, though. 🤔

Quote

 

General

The master cylinder reservoir on the top of the master cylinder should never be less than half full of genuine Plymouth Hydraulic Brake Liquid, which is obtainable at any authorized Plymouth Service Station. This should be used to the exclusion of all other liquids, but if for some reason the genuine liquid is not available for an immediate requirement, a suitable substitute liquid may be made by thoroughly mixing equal parts of medicinal caster oil and No. 5 denatured alcohol free from acid (wood alcohol should never be used). This formula should only be used when the genuine Plymouth Hydraulic Brake Liquid is not available, and it is important that the improvised liquid be entirely drained from the system as soon as possible and replaced with Plymouth Hydraulic Brake Liquid. Plymouth Brake Liquid is make in very much the same manner, but certain chemicals are added by a very lengthy, as well as difficult, process which neutralizes acids found in the formula prescribed above.

 

2 hours ago, FarmerJon said:

Homebrew brake fluid, now that is a good one!

The Operators Manual (i.e. owner's manual) for my 1933 PD has a recipe for making brake fluid. They warn to only to use the home made stuff in an emergency and then get the system flushed and refilled with approved Chrysler brake fluid as soon as possible as there will be acids that will damage the brake system over time. Remember that back in 1933 most cars still had mechanical brakes and so the supply stores in smaller or rural locations might not stock brake fluid so if you were out in the middle of nowhere and needed brake fluid you could make some from things available from the local pharmacy.

I don't know about modern automotive paint that uses hardeners, but for old fashioned nitrocellulose, nitrocellulose, alkyd, and acrylic paints DOT 3 brake fluid is a very quick and effective paint remover.

Silicon brake fluid can easily get bubbles in it if not handled properly. Simply being rough when pouring can get small bubbles into it. Once in, they are very hard to get out. That might be an issue for you.

Another that can result in very poor braking is if the shoes haven’t been arced to fit the drums. This will result in only a small portion of each shoe making contact with the drum so you will have little braking regardless of the pedal pressure.

Any way, if you are going to change type of brake fluid, you will need to get all the old out. To do that you will need to disassemble everything. Some recommend using alcohol to flush the system but I have read that the alcohol can damage things.

In my case I also replaced all the hoses and tubing. You may get by with blowing them out with compressed air. 

If I were you, I would verify that the shoes are arced properly and get a pressure bleeding tool and rebleed using DOT5 being very careful to avoid getting tiny air bubbles in the fluid.

Regarding the dash, not sure about 1939 but in the early 1930s wood grained was on the deluxe models while the standard or business models had paint. In 1933 the standard (PCXX) the paint was black.

 It is my understanding that the convertibles always had paint.

It is my understanding in that era they painted the whole power plant assembly (engine, bell housing, flywheel cover & transmission) as a single assembly so they should all be the same color.

5 hours ago, jrocco49 said:

I found a shop locally that did the fronts for $120.  Next week I will install them when I get the wheel cylinders from Rock auto.

 

But now I can't find the copper washer that goes between the brake line and the wheel cylinder!  It must have fallen out on the floor and got sweep up.  Now I have to find one.  I do have the other side washer to make a match with.

I assume you are looking for the “Brake Flexible Hose Gasket”, part type code 5-62-07. Which for your truck is likely to be Chrysler part 1123332 which should be available in your local auto supply store. Follow the links to get part numbers they can cross to their system.

Thinking about it, there is a reasonable chance that a brake and friction supply that was able to reline your shoes will also carry that type of part.

38 minutes ago, Sniper said:

I think it's part number 1261004, good luck finding it though,

For the Plymouths old enough to have used Delco-Remy, the Chrysler part number is 41928. Apparently the later P15s also used that number. Other than the really late P15 listing, later AutoLite distributors used Chrysler part 640715.

I don't have a cross for the 1261004 or 640715 numbers but that early 41928 part number is in the lookup at Vintage Power Wagons and they are selling an O-ring (rather than cork gasket): https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-distributor-to-engine-block-rubber-gasket-o-ring-cc41928-n

Until the early 1930s it was common practice for the instruments to be in the center of the dashboard. 1934 was the first year that Plymouth had the gauges in front of the driver.

That doesn’t explain why they reverted in 1938.

But there was a pretty big export market for Plymouth with lots going to the UK or Commonwealth countries and having the instruments centered might have been a cost saving measure as one less thing that needed to be swapped for right hand drive.

I’ve always just had my old shoes relined. But then again, even when I got my car in the 1970s new or remanufactured brake shoes were not available for it.

Find a good, preferably local to you, "brake and friction" company. If there isn’t one then there have been several recommendations in the past on this forum.

The next question would be to get them riveted or bonded. I’ve gone with bonded most of the time. Mostly because that is what the shops are used to doing nowadays.

Have you verified that the unit is getting power?

If it has power, does it sound like the motor is turning but not moving he wiper arms?

These L-6 engines are dirt simple and much more forgiving than modern engines so it surprises me that you can't find someone willing to work on it.

Heck, when young and ignorant with only simple hand tools I was able to do a ring and valve job on my '33 over the space of a couple of weekends. And I did it without removing the engine from the car. It held together just fine for another 20K to 30K miles before I decided to get it rebuilt professionally when I took the car all the way apart for restoration. Ring and valve jobs were pretty standard fare back in the day and well within the skill level of an amateur mechanic. If the diagnosis is correct that it is simply the rings then you might be able to do the same depending on how worn the cylinders are.

If on tear down and inspection you find things are not that simple, then you'll find lots of members here have done professional level rebuilds and can give you advise and direct you to resources.

9 hours ago, soth122003 said:

Saw this on flea bay. Read the bottom of the box.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/181623623812?itmmeta=01HQ39QSCFSF7ZN93JFG9SB9F4&hash=item2a499c9084:g:S5IAAOSwc0FUmu5P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8GsRPMDBPPSNIOFZy5yNNj2AFsto0mi1y1OrYiwvocLH18ViNKRQjfvrtfeHOC4zkAy5yWho6pCZu7OxFE%2FlgL9%2BxjjfELRZWeOK%2FvWxHVvTj8zM55%2BAA43LY9HOACnzDwvMiwtpkdgt8bfN6zRfVKY8JmD0XBuvoaAtPcjV6FCZm5vArHNPGPxcmoeV9tW0iT2Yblwu1idc%2BcFrfDI75jWMLznNFO3A2f%2ByNyNGRy8LgreSqYxaHmWULpRImkBHmNuixUa0eSssQhbNzXQMXXj8l5sHWHUv194Vl0%2BNFvDQPt%2FXe3AVf6ADgfGUUazgew%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrJbf6bhj

 

Joe Lee

A shorter link to that same listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/181623623812

1 hour ago, p15-1948 said:

I think there is some adjustment at the gauge.  think I've read that in some of Chrysler's literature.

The factory service manual says they can be adjusted, if not too far off, by bending the linkage that connects the Bourdon tube (the coiled up flat tube) with the needle.

I don't know how similar it is, but on my '33 there is are saddle shaped pieces that screw onto the top of the firewall and the radiator shell. The hood hinge sits in the saddles then a cover screws down over that to hold it in place.

I am out of town but I can take photos when I get home if that would help.

Details like pinstripe location are not as well documented for Plymouth as it is for cars like the Mode A Ford. I barely know where the pinstriping should be on my '33 and enough to know that it depends on body type. While I have seen a '37 that was done, I think, correctly I don't recall the details at all. And the '36 could be different. The best bet would be to contact the Plymouth Owners Club's technical adviser for the model year.