White Spyder
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Posts posted by White Spyder
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So, I checked out the rear end of my ‘48, she didn’t mind. More importantly neither did my wife. Here are two photos. The first looking toward the front of the car. There is only one plug. The second is looking toward the rear of the car. There are two. Which is the drain and which is the fill and why the extra?
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Check this too. There should be a pin with a cotter key here. This is what happened to me. Fixing it is a PIA. If this is your issue, PM me for fourth details.
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Lucky you. I have the oil filter mounted in such a way that it blocks access to that plug. What a PIA it was to change. I had to remove the filter and the lines. Then there was no roon to drive the plug into place with a drift and hamer. Bought an air hammer to get the job done.
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Add Mississippi to the list. Not only did I find a good one to pass inspection (required by the law) I found one for the county I live in.
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For reference though.
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19 hours ago, Sienile said:
Owner wants to be able to put in modern accessories, so the decision to go 12v was already made before I became involved. It's only a headache once.
With the above in mind and condition of the engine, might be best to look at swapping to a more modern engine and Transmission. That will give you the 12v, overdrive and more ponies. The option for a/c is also available. -
More than likely for the sission choke and the other for the fluid drive system.
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SteveR, thanks for the diagram. Sniper, it was not until I read your post that I kept missing that the key needed to be on to sound the horns.. several others mentioned it but I missed it.
With the key on the jumper from the green wire to the relay, the horns blew. Pulled the center ring and fund the wire only hanging on by a couple of strands of copper. All is working as it should now.
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Car is still 6 volt positive ground. 1948 Chrysler Windsor. Jumping the green wire to the ground on the battery gets only a click at the relay, no horns. That green wire goes to terminal "S" on the relay.
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In the photo below, I have unplugged the wire from the column and jumped the green wire to terminal S on the relay with no sounding of the horns. This bypasses any question of the horn ring on the steering wheel. Something else in not right.
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16 hours ago, Los_Control said:
My first thought were to check that the horns actually work
Next would be connections.
Then I would go into the horn button.... remove the horn ring, unplug the horn at the exit point out of the steering column ....
I would tie string onto the wire while pulling the horn ring & wire through the column so you can inspect it on the work bench.
My truck does not have a horn ring .... just a horn button in the middle of the wheel.
The wire where it exits the column .... mine was in pretty bad shape with the wires bare from rubbing the insulation off.
The horn button the wire passes through a metal plate that is held in place with a snap ring. I do not know whats on the other side because it is all enclosed.
I just know I will need to take it apart and replace the wire & clean all connections there before I put it back together.
I saw in your photos what looks to me as if your car was rewired with modern cloth wiring .... did they also replace the wire from the horn button out the steering column?
Yes that was replaced. From the thread, I can get the horns to blow when jumping them directly with the battery. I can not get them to blow when grounding the wire from the column to any point on the relay. I do get the relay to click. new relay since this started too just to be sure.
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I know that trouble shooting the horns should be simple but I must be missing somthing. Does anyone have the scmatics of the horn circuts?
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Work has kept me from following up on the horns. Here is the latest information
· Continuity tested good from:
o Connection out of steering column to both S terms on the relay.
o Connection from H term on the relay to the horn.
o Connection from B term to the voltage regulator.
· Using a jumper from the connection out of the steering column to the S bullet term on relay does not activate horns or relay.
· Jumper from S bullet term to ground (positive ground) on battery the relay clicks.
· Jumper from the negative battery post to horn sounds the horns.
· With the key off or on the horns do not sound.
· Replaced relay (found one local and cheep) no different results.
Questions:
o On the relay, S term, where does the non-bullet wire go? I want to check that continuity.
o Should there be continuity between both the S term connections?
o What voltage should be going to the B term on the relay with the key on and off?
o What am I missing?
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Been traveling for work.
keep in mind that I have not moved any wires since the horns quit working correctly.
key off, with a volt meter, I get nothing when grounding to the battery at the B terminal. I do get 6.4v at the S terminal.
Key on, I get 5.8v at B terminal and 6.4v at S terminal.
grounding at the battery, I do not get horns activated when touching the test lead to H.
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Cleaned the terminals, back of the relay and the fender wall to make sure ground is good. Opened the relay and it appears to be intact. The lower terminal S has power constantly the upper one the rest are zero volts without the horn button pressed. When the ground wire, upper S bullet is jumped to the POSITIVE ground, the relay clicks but the horns do not activate.
any helpful suggestions?
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Bit mor info. The photo below is of the relay I removed. It has 4 terminals and they are marked with the letters H, B and S. The one marked S appears to have two connections.
Burnbaum’s has a relay listed for my car but it has only 3 terminals and appears to be a universal horn relay. Anyone have an idea on the part number for the 4 terminal relay? I cleaned of the paint and found no part number on the one I removed.
TIA
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Tested the horns with a jumper from the NEGATIVE terminal and they work. With the jumper from the wire coming from the steering column, I get a click at the relay in the center of the photo but nothing from the horns. When I press the horn ring on the wheel, I don’t get the click at the relay.
Bad relay?
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So, touch the jumper lead to the POSITIVE terminal? I hate electrical issues!
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My horns have quit working. A few years ago I re-wired the engine bay with a kit from Rhode Island Wire. The car is still POSITIVE GROUND. I think my first step in diagnosis is to eliminate the horn relay. To do this I was thinking that I should take the wire coming from the steering column where it connects to the harness with a bullet connector and use a lead to touch to the negative terminal of the battery and see if the horns activate.
Am I thinking correctly?
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17.5 today for 45 mile trip. Average speed was 55.
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On-line bidding is open and they will be live to close. Shipping can be arranged. This company normally sells collector tractors. They just set a world record sale.
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Hooked up the wires and it started smooth as silk. Off to a show today.
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Rear Differential Oil?
in P15-D24 Forum
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To respond to some of the above comments. My 48 is original no swapped differential. Does anyone have an idea about the size of the drain plug on the bottom? None of my ratchet's fit.