Tom Skinner

OK,

Call me an old fart. Why in gods name would anyone Bastardize a Fluid Drive that can be repaired properly unless they are just scared of doing something right?

Buy the Tools. In all my years. Can anyone tell me why everything has to go to the lowest common denominator. I don't care kick me off this site if necessary. In gods name fix it properly. Or we are all doomed to melt down to the lowest levels of intelligence, until Kingdoms Come. 

Putting Bolts in a Fluid Drive to Lock it up? Oh Boy Lets just drink a case of Beer and Jump off a Bridge.

Where do you people live in the Appalachians?

Man Do your thing - Ignorantly as it may be. 

Tom Skinner 

Huntersville NC

Or is it Happy Holidays?

I made one out of 5/16" Steel stock one Christmas about 15 years ago and went one step further by painting it for the "Holly Happidays"

So far no one has mentioned the Brushes in the Generator. Are they dirty or worn down? Are the Brush Springs working correctly for the Brushes to make good contact?

Yes the Posts on that Generator need cleaning up and inspection for grounding out as well.

Jerry in TX,

My 1948 Chryslers both had a holes in the floor under the rear seats on both sides. They also had rubber plugs in them.

The holes are either 1/2" or 1" in Diameter as my memory serves me. The Rubber Plugs are now made of Plastic and don't fit well.

I lremoved one one and put it back in place just as perplexed as you about their purpose for being there. Maybe measure the diameter

and go to a good Hardware store if there is still such a thing and buy a couple of rubber plugs and plug them up. I noticed either rear end

Grease or Universal Joint Greese trying to seep through mine, I sleeved my Shaft Yoke and replaced my U-Joints and cleaned up the mess below and 

of course had no more problems. Seat belts did't come out until 1963 so I feel safe to say they had nothing what so ever to do with them.

Tom 

bacelaw,

The Flapper may be freed up with PB Blaster and the carb off. Remember a Temp sensitive Spring also belongs on the post as well.

If not removing the manifolds one may make repairs that way to it as well. The Gaskets for the manifolds cost in the $25 - $30 range.

Remeber to drain the anti - freeze first as some manifold bolts go into the water jacket. Also use sealer on those same bolts while re-installing to prevent leaks.

Good Luck trying to free it up with PB Blaster - you may very well suceed in this manner. The Spring should wind 3/4 of a turn upon installing to provide proper tension.

Good Luck!

Tom

bacelaw,

All good advice above. First pump tires to max pressure allowed, try pushing her out of the garage she should roll, get a helper if need be. Wheels should turn by hand after brake work (raised up of course) with minimal drag. New Breakes will settle in after 10 -20 miles driving.

I like the Vacumm Advance check idea above, along with the Distributor Plate turning freely. Also I have found setting the timing about 5 - 6 Degrees advanced helps with the new gas octanes with ethanol. Originally gas back in the 1940's was about 76 octane not 87 octane, this may account for the reason our cars run better with the Timing advance a little more than usual. So say your Service Book calls for 2 Degrees BTC, then try 7 - 8 Degrees BTDC. That is the sweet spot for my 1948 Royal (250.6cu.).

Good Luck, let us know what you find.

Tom

I am getting old here so if someone else knows better chime in.

Which ever way the Rotor turns (say Clockwise) then to advance turn Distributor in the opposite direction (Counter clockwise) to advance timing

And of course - say for a 1944 Ford Jeep the Rotor turns (counter clockwise) then to advance timing turn the distributor (clockwise)

This holds true for all older engines with Rotors, Points, Condensers, Ditributor Caps, etc.

Tom

Colbs,

I searched recently viewed in my ebay. The Guy's handle on ebay is: 2ndgenautoparts. He is in Oregon.

He rebuilds selenoids. It seems he knows the SS4705 etc for our Fluid Drives, if you haven't figured yours out.

I would Search him and contact him if need be, I believe he is listing a SS4703 at present.

It seems he wants @ $250 for all of his Selenoid Rebuilds though. Which probably not that bad since I paid $150 for

just a Selenoid Winding for my MAX4050 Starter Selenoid about 9 years ago to rebuild mine.

Not sure of his method of S&H etc. I would contact him if that place in GA can't help you with a part. 

I bought my winding from Frank 9 years ago. He must have still been there, I spoke with him on the phone, Nice Guy, too bad he is gone now.

Tom

Colbs,

I believe the place was in Portland Oregon. I googled Starter Rebuilders there and 3 came up, I can't recall which one was listing the $250 one.

Maybe a Google Search will help. Also there is a guy in GA named Frank that carries one or two occationally.

FRMopar I believe his handle is - but not sure. Usually the winding breaks and that is the reason the selenoid quits working.

Good Luck searching. Some one might had seen my Post and grabed that $9.99 SS4703 up. They are not on ebay now. They sell extremely fast.

Tom

Colbs,

I looked to share them and somebody has already scarfed them up.

They don't appear often. I should have just messaged you. Posting here might have

got them gone immediately since they are so rare. 

Tom

Colbs,

On ebay now for $9.99 is a Remanufactured SS4703 Starter Selenoid. Buy it. The SS4705 on your MAX4050 Starter can use the guts out of the SS4703.

The only difference is the bracket on the SS4703 is canted differently than the SS4705.

Or: On ebay once again a Remanufactured SS4705 is for sale for $250. If your Starter Selenoid is Bad you cannot beat these price now adays.

Ebay: Type in 1948 Chrysler: browse for or type in 1948 Chrysler Starter Selenoid.

Good Luck

Tom

PS. Those windind]gs in those Selenoids are Rare as Hen's Teeth.

Oil The Wick in the Back of The Instrument Panel. Fixed.

These old buses ran on 74 octane back in the day. Use Non- Ethanol gas if avialable. 87 Octane good.

Crap Gas (Ethanol) will screw things up. Clean Plugs and set them. Use a Vacumm Gauge after you set your timing (about 4-6 degrees in advance) and set your Carb lastly with a Vacumm Gauge. To its Highest setting. Good Luck!

Tom

Chris,

You could try soaking what you have in Oil for the night, then try it. It will swell up a little and work more correctly than when dry and cracked.

Get a new one if possible, I can't see how to just replace the leather only without monking it up.

Tom

At 10:42 it shows the adjustment

There is a Selector Bushing in the Shift Linkage (along the Steering Column) just in front of the Fire Wall that probably needs adjusting.

See Page 20 and 21 in: Transmision Fundamentals Service Book Chrysler Corporation Volumn 2 No.6. Dated 1949.

If the Linkage gets between settings your problem exactly. I know I had it happen to my 1948 Chrysler going up hills here in NC.

These Service Booklets are available to view in You Tube.

Tom

Loren is correct. Try a good mom and pop Hardware. O Rings abound there.

How about the Cowl Vent?

Marc,

That Broadcloth was done 20 years ago from old stock. The wood grain I did on some of the Interior trims. Thanks for the compliments!

As with anything woodgraining is easy - it just takes practice - it is just like OUTFXD said if your not happy with it, wipe it clean and start over.

Actualy for window trim a wide flat short bristle fan brush like the ones you use to paint clouds with works best.

Got to get the artistic feelings stirring do this. A little spirits never hurt, when one is feeling particularly well disposed, time to grab the brushes. 

Tom

Tried to revolve pic didn't work

Any Color will do Chesnut etc. Against tan etc. Try using a large Feather to twist run it along making Grains.

Finish with 10 coats of Clear Sealer Oh Baby what a finish!

Bryan,

Avoid all headaches and set traps. I have caught as many as 4 at a time in my garage near my Chrysler with Traps.

No mess no smell that I can tell all those little buggers have gone to H_ _ _. LOL.

Windows up in the Fall at all times - Moths will atend to your Wool Interiors if not.

Do as you please, Fact: no vermin can attack an antique car that is adequetly surrouned by loaded traps. 

Tom

Gents,

You are over thinking this entirely. The Book even calls for 30 or 40 wt Oil in the Oil Bath filter when colder months are around the corner.

NAPA sells 50wt Racing Oil for those wanting to spend $8 a QT.

Tom

Old School Rule of Thumb:

Backfiring out of Tailpipe is too rich a setting.

Backfiring out of the Carb is too lean a setting

Is your Choke set correctly?