Tom Skinner

I bought the Metal Shell of this 46 - 48 Chrysler Glove Box Door on ebay last year.

The Bake - Lite/Plastic covering was off of it or had cracked off.

I applied The Spray rubber (Tool Handle Rubber Dip Brand) about 5 coats. Sanded and sealed it with 800 paper

Painted it with spray Paint. Feathered the Alabaster Veins into it. Going to seal it with clear Lacquer 5 -10 Coats. Looks real close to original I cant seam to save the pics in the right direction

I had seen one when I removed my Passengers side front Kick Panel. It was stuffed into the cavity. Also up along the back seats tops in the trunk area stuffed into the cavity there as well. It is a roll of either insulation or sound deadening material. Could even be the dreaded asbestos. Handle with care and dispose of if possible.

I left my rolls of whatever they are in place and didn't disturb them.

Tom

PS They where in other Chrysler Royals I owned as well, you come across weird stuff working on these old buses.

OK, well Thank you again Dodgeb4ya and Sniper. I ordered the whole shebang from ebay for only $49 (It has the 4 Metal Bushings) so I wouldn't need to go to Nylon.

I will proceed when the parts get here, and send pictures. Here is the C-705 I made last year it required heating it with a torch to bend it properly.

Thanks to the guy that posted the template for it also if I missed anyone. I had fun making it out of stock steel from Lowe's Pictured also is a Glove Box Door I am restoring

Thank you.

I Made a Over Center Spring Tool with the Template already out of some Steel .

I will take alot of Pictures and mark everything before going in!

Thank you Dodge4ya!

I don't want to monk this up. Can you walk me through the steps to remove them?

Thanks!

Tom

Are 4 needed or 2 Halves?

OK mine is also different

There is nothing on You Tube. My guess is to release the Overcenter spring first then remove the pivot snap ring?

Gents,

I have a question pertaining to the Clutch Torque Pivot Bearings. Are the difficult to replace, I see the are made out of Nylon now.

Does any one know the steps to take to do this, and is willing to share with me the steps? I suspect mine are original and somewhat worn,

because if I grease them they can get clunky, once the grease craps out after some use they quiet down again.

Thank you in advance for the instructions.

Tom

The Glove Box Light pigtails off the Clock which definitely has a 10 or 15 Amp Fuse in it on my 1948 Chrysler Royal.

As for the Heater you will have to sort that one out, I looked and I don't see a fuse from my Heater Fan Switch on the Dash to the Heater.

It may be a Capacitor, or a Resistor, I am not well versed in the Electrical Department. My Chrysler C-38 Wiring Diagram doesn't even show a Heater. 

My guess is its either in the switch box just behind the Knob - which would make it a Switch gone bad, a possible bad ground, or somewhere in the Heater Box.

But my guessing is just that.

Good Luck

Tom

If I remember correctly ther is also a fuse leading to the Clock/Glove Box Light. And also one to the Heater.

Search for them and replace them. That would be the quickest/cheapest solution if possible.

Good Luck.

Tom

I forgot to say - I rotate every 5-6000 miles and check/keep tire pressure every month. 

Its also a good time to check bearings and brake pads or shoes.

I bought my first 1948 Chrysler in 1973, with the original tires on it, with 32,000 miles on them.

I drove it for 11 years with those tires and sold it with those tires still on it, about 70,000 miles. They looked worn.

Either Tires were made much better in the day, or tire companies encourage owners to replace them every 7 years or so. Why?

My 2001 Pick -Up Truck is on its 6th set of Tires with 302,000 they still have at least 10,000 more miles to go.

Don't buy into the tire hoopla of getting new ones just to have new ones unless they are really needed.

Its all just a caching thing. I'll be the first one to tell you new tires are nice, but with the price of them now - not so much.

I turned mine upside down on the lawn and flushed from the bottom to the top (fill) hole and got two cups of weird gunk out of mine about 7 years ago

Clean points with a soft cloth or pencil eraser - gently. They are silver, soft, and need gentle cleaning

Get a friend to help lift it out. 6 or 8 they are heavy (Copper) original radiators

I had similar situation last summer I did everything. Seems like cleaning the Governor Points and a new Coil did the trick.

Check your fuss at the transmission box on the wheel well sometimes they get corroded or bad and don't send a clear message to the carb

Anyone can see that is a whatchamacallit. LOL

I'm with D35Torpedo GA I think stand for Fuel Gauge. Rad is most probably Radio. I am refering to a colored 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler C-38 and C-39 Plastic Laminated Wiring Diagram By John Anastasio that was popular off of ebay 10 years ago. Basically its the same as our Service Manual Page 102. No other mention of RAD in adjacent Diagrams for C-37, or C-40 in our Service Manual. Makes sense to me that it is most likely Radio. Caveat Emptor: I am not a good Electrician. LOL

Good Luck!

Be sure to get the piston button back in the same position on both sides when re-assembling

Strictlyballroom,

Sometimes just taking the carb apart and cleaning and freeing up the bakelite piston in that chamber can make a world of difference as well.

Tom

LeRoy,

Yeah, I guess I overdid it. I have lived in the Smokies, and TN as well. Nothing really wrong with the Smokies other than sometimes hearing those dueling banjos, I was so poor at one time I drove around in my first 1948 Chrysler in the 1970's with no car insurance - for years. Thank God a quart of Oil was only 79 cents then, and Gas was about 35cents a Gallon.

So I do realize some people may need to stick a bolt in their Fluid Drive out of necessity. My apologies to anyone I may have offended. As a side note I still have friends and neighbors from the TN Mountains today, So what ever gets it fixed or done on our old Mopars is fine with me. I am just lucky enough to have never had any leaks from my Fluid Drives over the years. I did manage to buy The Compleat Fluid Drive Tool Set on ebay about 17 years ago. I don't know if I could repair one now without a younger set of hands helping me. I still need a Long 5/8" Fluid Drive wrench for the Flywheel removal though should that time ever come.

Tom

Congratulations Adam. 

Johnny will really be singing I will make you Hurt. (Hurt - Nine Inch Nails)

And you can really have - my Entire Empire of Dirt. Try selling that Mopar to who?

What an ingenious way to repair a Car. You are really smarter than me obviously.

I wish I was as smart as you. Hell have at it.

Viel Gluck und Gute Reise. Buena suerte, que tengas un buen viaje!

Tom

OK Sam I will play it again.

What song will be playing when they stick that bolt into the Fluid Drive to ameliorate it?

Dueling Banjos from Deliverance?

Tom

Or Better put:

Lord preserve us and protect us - we have been drinking Whiskey for Breakfast. Mike Cross North Carolina.

Tom