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  1. Haha
    Alshere59 reacted to greg g in Flathead 6 Rebuild Information   
    Just think 6 Briggs and Stratton a in a row...
  2. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from 48ply1stcar in Top shock mount relocation   
    I am running Ford F1 mounts with Monroe 555004 shocks. Your mileage may vary on length. I had to go to the shocks I posted after putting in new springs in front.
    The shock should ride in the middle of its travel. Basically between its compressed and extended length.
    Here is a chart for shock length. travel, etc.
    Also a pic of the F1 mount I have on mine.
    For a template try here.

  3. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from jyinger in 1950 Overdrive Transmission Exchange With 1941 Transmission   
    I went the other way a 1940 Od (Dodge R7) into a 50 Plymouth so not sure how relevant it is. Also what version of OD as I thought they were not available until 1952. I ended up with a 1950 bell housing, a 55 230 and flywheel, and then the 40 OD. The shifter arms on the transmission on mine was the only change. The speedo cable worked just went over the top of the tranny. So I guess the best answer is that it will fit but you have to remember to swap enough parts sometimes and keep an eye on those you don't.
    Also the wiring diagrams for both OD transmissions are available in the resource area. He should try to get the associated relays etc. if possible.
    This may be a good time to look at clutch pressure plate etc. since it is that far apart. Its the domino theory after all.
    With that in mind he may want to go with a switch mounted kick down like Blue Skies. He also needs to remember that with the OD engaged regardless of model It will not hold in gear going forward on a hill.
    Sorry turned this into a laundry list almost.
  4. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to Worden18 in 51 Meadowbrook engine rebuild   
    I'm having a lot of fun working on the engine, and my friends are enjoying helping me (thank God); that's what its all about I guess 

  5. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from classiccarjack in Heat riser with Sisson choke?   
  6. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from desoto in Offy dual intake   
    I had thought only the Edmunds were water heated unless you added a plate where the heat riser was... Post a picture if you can.. 
  7. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to casper50 in Dash knob repaint?   

  8. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from JBNeal in Crankcase Ventilation   
  9. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from JBNeal in Bullseye halogen conversion   
    The reflectors are Bosch and they were bought on epay. Other company's make them so they are easy to find.
    If you want they even make them with turn signals mounted in them.
    You can get Halogen bulbs in 12 or 6 volt that plug into the existing wiring harness so that is easy.
    You will need to add relays as the halogens draw more amps and your switch will get pretty hot. Here is a link, its for an OT car but still valid for ours. Just scroll to the bottom for an excellent schematic.
    Greg The beam pattern on the original H4 is nice in that it covers a bit more of the ground. You can see it to some extent in the pic. The grass is visable in the others just not as much. They were 25 foot from the fence or what the alignment distance is when i took the pics.
  10. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from JBNeal in Bullseye halogen conversion   
    The headlight beams after replacing the European lens with the bulls eye lens.
    The last is the Bullseye lens on the Bosche European reflector. I like the way the beam comes out with the bullseye lens it has a large area with a clean cut on the top. The sealed beam is bright but narrow. So overall very happy with the change
    All 6 volts but easy to change to 12.

  11. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from yourpc48 in Front disk conversion project.   
    Excellent work. This should get moved over to the tech archives. Maybe with a scan of your bracket in pdf format.
  12. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to Desotodav in Headlight switch wiring diagram   
    Wire diagram attached

  13. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from JBNeal in Bullseye halogen conversion   
    Just thought I would post some pics of my bullseye headlights being changed to new reflectors with a mount for a Halogen bulb fits 6 or 12 volt. I bought some Bosh headlights and broke the lenses out of them. Then you just clean the silicon off. Still need the bulbs and relays as they are not here yet.

    I did end up cracking one prying the metal from around the edge. So the next one and a replacement went into a mild acid solution and did the reverse of the Rust Removal using Electrolysis. So my headlight was connected to the positive lead on my 6 volt battery. Also I used some muriatic acid I had left over from the pool that I diluted with water. So 2 thirds water 1 third acid. Everything done outside. Total time to eat away the lip holding the glass was about 5 hours.
    I had a baking soda bath waiting for the headlight after it came out of the bath. Then used the rest to neutralize the acid.

    So anyway that where I am currently

    If you have never heard of the rust removal a link is below. I just reversed the connections so that it ate away my headlight. The electricity goes mostly line of site so I had a big washer right in front of the center of the lense.

  14. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to Clearfieldsgarage in Oil modifications   
    I'm still trying to figure out why people like to get so worked up about a technical question. Thank you shel for your informative response. I am missing the pressure relief valve. So I am assuming that that is where I have located my oil lines. I didn't completely cut off the cam bearings, I restricted them to 1/16" which is what mopar supplied as a rebuild reccomendatiin from what I have read. Also my later rods did not have squirt holes. And the new bearings did not have holes for the squirters either. The oil spewing out of the sides of the rod journals should splash all over everything. Let's see if I can get facts without attitude. I didn't think I was being disrespectful when I posted.
  15. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to 1940plymouth in My Granddaughter   
    There are two photos of my Granddaughter Adele who will be a year and a half this coming week.  She is sitting in my Plymouth and my friend's '35 Plymouth.  Both photos were taken today.
    Just had to share these with the other Grandfather's who understand how proud we are

  16. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to adam_knox in Members Map   
    Hey gang!
         Just as a heads up, I'm deleting the old forum's unofficial member's map from the old site. GTK created an official one under the tab "Members", or at this link: http://p15-d24.com/index.php?app=membermap 
          Its great to have an up-to-date map so if you got a moment, feel free to add yourself to it if you haven't already. Looks like our latest count is 134 users. Let's see if we can break 200!   
    Kind regards,
  17. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from Don Coatney in Wire Smoke   
    Wonder if you can put the magic smoke back in.

  18. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from Don Coatney in Wire Smoke   
    Wonder if you can put the magic smoke back in.

  19. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to nonstop in Bench Bleeding M/c In Car????   
    I know that I am new here, and many of these guys have a lot more experience with the Lockheed brakes than I do, but can I throw in my 2 cents? 
    I rebuilt my brakes last year, including wheel cylinders and the master.  Did you rebuild your wheel cylinders?  One problem I ran into was the cups that sit behind the pistons were not flat, but rather, had a hole in the middle.  This caused all sorts of problems with air intrusion.  I replaced them with the flat ones and put in new pistons, and there was no more air intrusion from there.  Another problem I ran into was a cracked adapter fitting, which gave a poor seal.  Also, did you replace the residual valve in the master when you rebuilt it?
    After I went over those areas with a close eye, and was sure there was no more air intrusion, I still had a low/soft pedal.  I did not have one od the Miller or Amco tools.  I ground flats on the back of the anchor/adjuster bolts, perwhat I read from one of the sites.  I slid the drums on and adjusted the brakes with the drums on the car, turning the anchor bolts with the flats ground on them.  I slid the drum off and tightened the bolts.  This was the trick for me to getting rid of the soft/low pedal. 
    As previously mentioned, have you replaced rear brake hose?  You isolated the front from the back and chased the problem to the rear brakes.  Have you isolated the rear corners from each other to try to isolate which corner?
    I know I am throwing a lot, asking a lot, but you are down to replacing the steel brake lines chasing the soft pedal.  It sounds as if there is something else that might have been overlooked.
  20. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Bench Bleeding M/c In Car????   
    Re read post # 111.
  21. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to ggdad1951 in Thanks To Our Benovelent Overlords   
    I joined the regular dodge forums for info for my next project (modern power train) and I must say, while some may find the new site here daunting, they have never gone to the other dodge forums...headings, sub heading and sub sub headings and WAY more advertising ALL over.   Confusing as heck, and I'm not a newbie to message forums! 
    So thanks for this little slice of heaven and "simplicity" that doesn't want to make my head explode!
  22. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to pflaming in 12V Vs 6V   
    I rewired mine for 12 or 6 and left it 6 with no regrets. But then I'm not a radio fan. Referring to your daughter or any other teenager, don't they all listen to their music via some electronic device? At 16 she is in college in two or three years. So I say, consider what you will need three years from now.
  23. Like
    Alshere59 got a reaction from JBNeal in Source for Sending Unit - best price?   
    Not up to speed on trucks but I think your 52 is single wire, it is easy to check to make sure though. Since I just bought single wire sender I thought I would update the info since the JC Whitney model is no longer available. While I didn't have to change out the mounting flange the sender I found does work for the conversion. So after searching I found the universal sender at Tanks Inc can be used for this conversion but cost $35 plus shipping.
    On a side note I liked this sender the stop tabs  for the float arm let me adjust it enough to match my gauge exactly. Full is full and empty is at at about an inch from the bottom so I have some reserve. The float could be set to anywhere I just liked the idea of a reserve. The unit is advertised as 73 ohms not 78 but bending the tab down got me to where it read correctly. (It was just shy of empty before I adjusted it.) You can see the tabs in the picture and the bolt that holds it together same as the old JC unit. Hope this helps.
    It has a ground connection also but it is a single wire unit. Just thought I would mention it as the pic could be misleading.
    They have the model number of TAN-ORG

  24. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to TodFitch in Snowball Effect   
    A number of years ago we had a chip in the porcelain on the kitchen sink. Many thousands of dollars later the result was a new kitchen. Sounds like you ran into the same phenomena.
    Sounds like you've got things squared away.
  25. Like
    Alshere59 reacted to DCurrent in Classic Exhaust   
    I don't think exhausts rust out so much from salt or rain. I think the short trips kill them quicker than anything. The exhaust doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the condensation out from the inside. Thus the collection of condensation keeps collecting and eats the pipe from the inside out. Just my opinion.
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