Doug&Deb

There is an adjustment procedure in the shop manual for the e-brake. Try that first. I’ve never run into that problem with my M-6 so I’m curious what you find out. Also the Imperial club website has downloadable content that may be useful. Good luck and keep us posted.

Good to hear from you James. Even though it’s off topic keep us posted on the 300. It’s still a Mopar so it qualifies lol. 

Thanks for the info Rich. I always appreciate your research.

I agree. Carbon buildup. To my knowledge yes they all have the plug but I’m not sure what year they started using that.

No I remember hand turning the pump while submerged in oil to remove the air from it before installing it. I swore I used an old distributor to prime the engine. Perhaps I removed the gear. I’ll have to try and find that distributor to check. None of this is helping Bingster get his engine started. Hopefully someone will chime in with the proper steps to get him going.

Now you all have me confused. What the heck did I do to prime the engine. That was March so it wasn’t that long ago. My memory sure isn’t what it used to be.

Sniper that’s how I primed my rebuilt engine. Plugs out of course. My cordless drill worked fine. 

Did you soak the oil pump and bleed the air out of it before installation? That’s very important. Also before cranking it remove the distributor and use a drill to spin the pump to prime the system. I used an old distributor for that on mine. After that re-install the distributor and it should be safe to try starting.

It’s okay for some threads to be showing. The plug is tapered. Snug it down and you’ll be fine.

Donald I used one of those on my 52 Coronet but it didn’t fix the problem. Usually internal parts of the latch break. I was lucky to find a decent one in a local salvage yard. I still have the rotor repair kit somewhere. I believe I found mine on eBay. It came from South America.

A parts manual would be helpful. They have good exploded illustrations of the various sub assemblies and often the fastener sizes. Try a Google search and see what you can find.

Try Moore’s in South Dakota 

I used a Scarebird kit on my 52 Dodge but I’m not sure if they’re in business anymore. ECI and Rusty Hope offer kits also. Use the search function on the forum. There should be many threads covering this. The Scarebird kit was a direct bolt on and reasonably priced. I’ve put over 10,000 miles on with no issues.

Yesterday I took my 9 year old grandson to a car show. Two different owners asked him to sit in the driver’s seat of their cars for a picture. The smile on his face was priceless. I’ve always opened my car to anyone who wants to sit down and see what it’s like. I encourage all of you to do this especially for kids. A simple gesture can lead to a lifetime car enthusiast and that’s what our hobby needs.

I’m a subscriber and I agree. Wonderful article.

I agree about Rock Auto. Much bigger selection than I expected.

The pipe plug is on the top of the cylinder head in the center above number 6 cylinder.

Turn the engine by hand with the plugs out and your finger on number one plug hole. Keep turning the engine until it pushes your finger off. Then check where the timing pointer is. Pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. That will be number one cylinder. Place the rest of the wires 1 5 3 6 2 4. As for the rubbing block that’s the plastic piece on the points that contacts the hex shape under the rotor. Rotate the engine until the block is on the widest part of the hex not the flat. That’s where you adjust the points gap.

I got to meet Rich Hartung at Hershey 2 years ago. It’s nice to meet the people who are so helpful. 

I second what Joe said. Not a fun clean up. Also get a cheap turkey baster to remove the oil from the canister. Don’t steal your wife’s lol. Wipe out the rest and install the new filter.

With my rebuild I ran it on a test stand with only water in the cooling system. After I was satisfied that all was well I drained it completely until I installed it in the car. I recommend using antifreeze no matter how little you plan on running it. The last thing you want is to forget and leave water in it once it gets cold out. A cracked block will definitely ruin your day. I agree with running it up to operating temperature so you know the cooling system is working properly. It also keeps condensation from forming in the engine.

I’m in southwest Pa not far from Pittsburgh so if I can help let me know.

I have a 52 Coronet with the same transmission and they don’t climb hills fast lol. With that transmission you can floor the accelerator at any speed below 35 mph and it will kick down to 3rd gear. Then just lift off the gas to up shift when ready. I have both the mechanical pump and an electric pump that I only use as needed for priming purposes and vapor lock. I doubt you’re starving fuel but without knowing the particulars of your setup I can’t advise you.

Good tip. Thanks 

I have a 52 Coronet with a Stromberg BXVES carb. There is a brass bushing on the air horn that the dash pot piston goes through. Mine keeps coming loose and I’m wondering what I can use to get it to stick in its place. It’s a press fit that’s not tight enough anymore. I’ve tried using fuel resistant permatex but it’s not holding. Just a nagging little problem I’d like to fix. It doesn’t seem to affect the drivability at all.