Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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You would be better off rebuilding your original pump than replacing it. The pins on the new pumps have a tendency to walk out. I’m currently running one from Andy Bernbaums and it has epoxy on both ends of the pin.
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I had a bad experience with Pertronix. It worked three times and burned up. They did reimburse me quickly but I’ll stick with points. Of course you have to be careful about that also. Lots of junk available.
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1950 Plymouth special deluxe not starting when hot
Doug&Deb replied to Rlopera44's topic in P15-D24 Forum
It’s not uncommon to have this problem. The ethanol gas boils at a lower temperature than the old gas did so it’s essentially boiling out of the carb. Many of us have added an auxiliary electric fuel pump that can be used to push gas through the carb to combat the problem. -
Be careful what you buy online. I’ve seen line advertised as nicop really cheap. It’s actually copper coated.
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I believe it’s 3/16 and the ends are 1/8-27 npt pipe.
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That looks like the same piece my D24 had.
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I have the same transmission jack lol. It’s definitely a plus with that heavy transmission. Where are you sending the fluid coupling for rebuild? I have a 52 Coronet and I may need that in the future. Take your time and fix anything that needs fixing while you have the space especially any safety issues. Be aware that coupling is heavy and awkward and the nuts are not easily accessible. Keep us posted.
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I can’t say the Carter carb won’t work. I’m just going by experience of owning a D24 previously and having parts cars. All had the Stromberg. Dodge fluid drive from 46-48 was the 3-speed with fluid coupling so any carb with a dash pot will work. Also no matter which carb you use the idle speed needs to be 450-500 rpm’s. To the original post, your car won’t shift automatically. The fluid drive allows you to start in third gear and not disengage the clutch when stopped. I normally drove mine like a conventional manual transmission but used the fluid coupling in town.
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The correct carb is a Stromberg BXVD-3
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Thanks guys. I’ll contact Then and Now and go from there.
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While going through some old parts I found two fuel pumps. One has a tag stamped rebuilt 588. It’s missing the sediment bowl and the bale. The other has a tag stamped 705. It has no provision for a sediment bowl just a plate bolted to the bottom. That one was in a box marked Carter M847. With the problems with pins walking out on the new pumps I’d like to rebuild these. I’m not sure what kit to order for the 705 pump. Both of them are definitely used. I had a 49 D24 from 2001-2013 so they’re from that era. Either one should work for my 52 Coronet.
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Better to rebuild the original. Try Then and Now Automotive for rebuild kits. The new pumps have a problem with the pivot pin walking out.
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Try The Carburetor Doctor. I’ve used them before and their prices are reasonable. The kits contain ethanol resistant parts also.
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If you have an original pump I’d rebuild it. We’ve all had problems with the pin walking out on the new pumps. Since I’m a machinist I plan on making a new pin for mine. I’ll have a shoulder on one end and I’ll drill the other end for a cotter pin.
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Beautiful car! That’s a first series 49. Mopar continued the 46-48 bodies into early 49.
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Just to add one more consideration. I belong to several Facebook flathead 6 groups and although they are for any vehicle powered by a flathead 6 there are far more Mopar owners. Our engines are much easier to use as daily drivers than most others.
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Cooper what is the issue with your engine? If it needs a rebuild consider doing it yourself. I did mine last year and I’ve never done anything like that before. Yes I’ve had some issues due to my low skill level but I’ve gotten through it and learned a ton.
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Get an infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight. They’re cheap and you can double check what the actual temperature is.
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If you are running bias ply tires I recommend the pressure stated in the owners manual. For radials I run 35 psi.
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The one on my 52 Coronet is 1 11/16. I found a socket at either Tractor Supply or Rural King.
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Joe I have a vacuum gauge that I use for tuning also. How do I use it to measure fuel pressure? And yes I do have a filter before the electric pump but it also has its own filter. I’m wondering if that is causing the problem. The pump filter isn’t removable which is stupid. My filter is new. I change that every spring.
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Yeah I’m not gonna try that. I like the idea of having a backup pump. I didn’t think the tee idea would work just checking.
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Unfortunately I don’t have a gauge for checking fuel pressure yet. I guess that’s the next investment. For now I’m insulating the line from the pump to the carb. If that doesn’t work I’ll bypass the electric pump and try that. I just checked the line and found no leaks so that’s good.
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Joe, my mechanical pump is new and didn’t solve the problem. The weird thing is that the problem is temperature sensitive and my engine doesn’t run hot (steady 160 degrees). My tank and lines are new. I’m going to try bypassing the electric pump to see if that makes any difference. I never had this issue before I added the electric pump but it didn’t start doing this immediately after so I’m stumped.
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I’m currently running an Airtex E-8902 electric pump inline along with a mechanical pump. I use the electric pump for priming and vapor lock. The problem I’m having lately is a fuel starvation issue only on warm days. Turning on the electric pump cures the problem. I’m wondering if the electric pump is creating a restriction that is worsened by warm temperatures. My question is whether I can run a tee and have the electric pump on its own loop? In other words a tee before and after the pump. I’m also considering getting a good Carter pump and eliminating the mechanical pump altogether. Any thoughts?
