Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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I’m inclined to agree. That explains why the service manual doesn’t cover a service process. I’ll just keep driving it till it goes boom.
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So to service the fluid drive unit do I remove the clutch inspection cover then rotate the drain plug straight down? The service manual really doesn’t explain the procedure. After draining rotate the drain plug to the correct angle and refill to the top. Sound right? I’ve topped off the unit but after 7 years of ownership a refill with fresh fluid seems like a good idea.
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Fluid Drive, Conversions, and some thoughts on it.
Doug&Deb replied to James_Douglas's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I’m sure whatever you do will be done properly. These cars were driven cross country when they were new so with everything rebuilt you should have no issues. If you can figure out how to rebuild the fluid drive unit you’ll be helping a lot of us that have them. Keep us posted. -
Since a new pump isn’t overly expensive now would be a good time to upgrade to one that’s ethanol resistant. May not fix the problem but cheap insurance.
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BXVES-3 Carb Rebuild - Needle Valve and Seat
Doug&Deb replied to Stargrinder's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I just used the same kit. I used a 90 degree fitting. Male end is 1/8-27 pipe thread and female is inverted flare. I faced the inverted flare straight down and made a new fuel line to the pump. I found the fitting at O’Reilly Auto Parts. If you try a straight adapter you won’t have room between the carb and the heater box. Trust me I tried. If you can’t find a fitting with a male end a female end will work with the pipe nipple included in the kit. -
Potential brake adjuster mod? Would this work?
Doug&Deb replied to Slickster's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That would work. However it wouldn’t be as accurate as the proper tool. Also the shoes need arced to the drums. It’s worth trying though. These brakes are a bugger to adjust. -
Had you just changed oil? I’ve mis seated the gasket on the filter and made a real mess more than once. How about the drain plug? I used a plastic washer on the plug instead of copper and it caused the plug to constantly loosen.
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I think it’s important to remember that 10W non detergent oil was originally used. The important thing is to change the oil frequently. Of course I’m the one that’s overdue for an oil change in my trans so I’m a good one to talk about frequent oil changes. I’m going to try the AV32 hydraulic oil and see how it works. I believe it’s the same thing as the floor jack oil I’ve been using for the past 7 years.
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Thanks everyone
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Trans. I’m overdue for a fluid change.
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Is ISO 32 hydraulic oil what others are using in the M6 trans? I’ve used floor jack oil in the past with no problems but I have access to hydraulic oil at work so I’m just wondering.
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Stupid question but did you back off adjusters for both shoes on each side? Sounds like an adjustment problem but check for leaking wheel cylinders also. Check the technical archive for information on how to make an adjustment tool. The correct tool is almost impossible to find.
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When using a dwell meter to set points how does the dwell angle correspond to the points gap? For example I think my dwell angle is 38 degrees. If it’s 30 do I increase or decrease the gap? I’ve always used a feeler gauge but I’m always willing to learn a better way.
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Is there an adjustment for the fast idle on a Stromberg BXVES carb? I’m at work so I don’t have my service manual available. I’m using a manual choke since the Sisson quit working. After letting it warm up this morning I couldn’t get it to kick down until I accelerated out of the driveway. Just wondering if something is sticking or I need to adjust something.
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I used a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet. It’s a bolt on with no modifications necessary other than removing the residual valve from the mc. The other kit that members of the forum use is Rusty Hope. I’m quite happy with the conversion.
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The resistor is crucial if you have the gyromatic trans. I didn’t know that when I did the conversion on my 52 Coronet and the module burned up after starting the car 3 times. I’m back to points. I’ll do the extra maintenance for now. If you search the technical archive you will find threads on how to properly do the conversion with the gyromatic.
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I believe Dodge started using the ram ornament in 33 or34 and that appears to be from that era.
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Check for a good ground also. I’ve had power show at a bulb socket according to my test light and still not have the bulb work. Fixing the ground solved the problem.
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May want to try locating an NOS switch. More expensive but should work better.
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Amen to that. I average 3500 miles a year on the Coronet and I don’t get too concerned about wear and tear. Remember all of our cars were once daily drivers.
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I think I’ll try the stubby 9/16
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Having had to remove the carb from my 52 coronet I’m wondering what everyone is using to remove the nuts. Seems like an open end 9/16 wrench is the only option. A bit cumbersome especially on the side facing the head. Anybody have a homemade remedy?
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Mine is a 40 footer too but that doesn’t detract from the fun of driving it. I figure if it’s moving no one can spot the flaws.
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Beautiful car and beautiful setting for a picture. My wife and I have done that also. I never remember to take pictures though.
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The D24 has the fluid coupling linked to a 3 speed trans. The M6 wasn’t offered until the 2nd series 49’s came out.
