Doug&Deb

Glad you got it fixed Tom. It’s usually always electrical. 

How about cleaning the points on the governor. I’m probably reaching here but I agree that these units are pretty bulletproof. Try the Imperial club. The troubleshooting manual covers both up shift and down shift problems. It’s usually something simple with these.

Tom when my Coronet had that problem it ended up being the wiring for the transmission. Do you have the troubleshooting manual? The Imperial club website has it available for download. It’s more comprehensive than the service manual. In my case a previous owner had spliced in new wires for the transmission but it was too small of a gauge. If that’s your issue the transmission harness is available.

The shaft is solid from the wheel to the box which dictates the position in the cabin.

From what I remember the key switch should be on the right side of the steering column. Where your key switch is should be a push button for the starter. Perhaps the toggle switch is the starter switch now.

For the fluid coupling Mobil DTE light circulating fluid ISO32. For the transmission AW32 hydraulic oil works well for me. The Mobil fluid is available from Grainger and isn’t cheap but has been verified by another forum member as being correct.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all! May we all be surrounded by love and happiness.

While I agree that any cheap oil is superior to what was available back in the day I still prefer to use a good quality oil. That said I ran non detergent 30W in my Coronet until the engine rebuild. 

Sniper I agree but in my case the engine was just rebuilt last winter and installed in the spring. I’m definitely replacing the leaking plug and I’d love to find a drain petcock with a nipple on it. I can’t find those anywhere. If anyone has a source for that please share it with us.

I’m having a rough time finding the correct 4lb radiator cap for my car. Where are you guys finding any?

I’m going to be replacing a leaking soft plug on my Coronet and I’m wondering what everyone recommends for a sealant. This is a fairly recent rebuild and one of the only things I didn’t do myself. I’m glad only one is leaking so far. Hope it stays that way.

What a great find! That’s a solid looking car and it’s going to be awesome when you’re done. We recently had a forum member with a 29. Search for his threads. They may be useful. Good luck and keep us posted.

I agree with Rich. Nothing any of us can do will get the block as clean as an engine shop can. Definitely worth every penny.

I’m assuming that’s an export model. It looks like a Plymouth with different trim. I’d like to see the grille. 

Bad wiring was the cause of my problems with my Gyromatic. A new transmission harness from YNZ Wiring fixed it. Idle speed should be between 450-500. 475 works good for me. Again the troubleshooting manual will walk you through the steps to diagnose the problem. Be aware that you won’t get the trans to up shift while on jack stands which is one of the steps in the manual.

I agree with cleaning the points. Also check the oil level in the transmission. Check the Imperial club website. They have a troubleshooting manual available for download. 

Sounds like fuel percolation, what most people refer to as vapor lock. Usually it causes hard starting and stalling until under hood temperatures come down. It’s also possible that the carb needs rebuilt. When was the last time you did a tune up? Does the problem occur when the engine is cold or only after being shut off? 

The original wires didn’t have rubber boots. What you refer to as rain shields is the Ever-Dri kit. 

Is it pulling to one side or hard to turn to one side? I’m wondering if you have a brake hanging up?

What is it for?

That’s an absolute beast of an engine. Does anyone know the horsepower and torque specs?

Love that Highlander interior! I’m not aware of any pre sewn covers available. You may be able to find a local upholstery shop that could make them for you.

I’m not sure if this will help but 50’s Dodge engines use a 1 11/16 socket which isn’t easy to find. I got mine from either Rural King or Tractor Supply. 

Is it possible that a wire is shorting when the switch is pulled? My Coronet used to stall occasionally when the M6 down shifted and I was able to restart it with the lights on (not a good idea I know) . I’d check the wires to the switch first.

The pump should pull without priming. If you can rebuild the pump I recommend that over replacing it. The new ones are not well made. It’s possible that the ethanol ruined the diaphragm. A good rebuild kit should have ethanol resistant parts and should last for a long time.