Doug&Deb

Just a shout out to Tennessee Clutch. Fast turnaround, great price and great workmanship. I understand why so many of you have used them.

Another newbie engine rebuild question. I’m working on a 58 truck flathead. My rods have no lock washers. The time between tear down, machine work and now has me forgetting if there were washers originally. The machine shop refurbished the rods and sent them back torqued to spec so I doubt they would have overlooked them. This will eventually go in my 52 Coronet so my manual is for that and the parts book goes to 54 so I need some help.

I bought a cheap riding lawnmower battery for my timing light. It’s small and light and works great.

Andy Bernbaums, Roberts Motor Parts. Perhaps even Rock Auto 

I wouldn’t recommend full synthetic oil for our engines. Modern engines have much tighter tolerances than we could ever hope for. Any quality break in oil should be fine.

Thanks. I’m doing my first engine rebuild so I’m hypercritical about everything lol. I keep thinking I’m forgetting something.

I’m following this with interest. My rods have no washers. There were none when I disassembled the engine. My engine is from 1958. Did they stop using washers at some point?

Try some gentle cleaning of the switch. The button should press easily. 

As far as the seat handle I’d try Moore’s Salvage. Otherwise try eBay. It’s a pot metal piece that breaks easily.

I agree. Sounds like the fluid coupling may be low.

The Scarebird kit was a direct bolt on for my Coronet. No issues whatsoever. I’m sad that they are out of business. I received great customer support from them. 

That’s really slick! It looks like a factory accessory.

I don’t know enough about the YF other than the linkage may not match up. That said if you’re capable of modifying the linkage to make it work go for it. I recommend keeping things as bolt on as possible in case you decide to go back to the original carb.

Welcome! It’s refreshing to see younger people get into the hobby. You’re in the right place. Lots of knowledge here. You may want to join the national DeSoto club if you haven’t already. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Nice car. I had one for 12 years. You’ll enjoy driving it. Are you talking about the inside door handle coming off? They are held in by a small pin and a spring behind the door panel holds tension to keep it from falling out. I believe Andy Bernbaums has them. 

I would replace it. Easier to do now.

One of the old ones broke during tear down so new ones are a must. I may clean them and use the permatext.

The new head bolts I got have sealant on them. I believe they are small block Chevy. Should I add more or is the factory application sufficient?

That’s impressive! Great tip 

Thanks Rick! That’s what I needed.

Thanks! I’ll check it out.

I’m usually on the car side of the forum since I have a 52 Coronet. I’m rebuilding my first engine which according to the number is from a 58 truck. I don’t have a manual and I’m not sure if there are any differences from the 52 manual. My question concerns piston rings. I’m wondering about the 4th ring that has the u-shaped profile. The other rings have a gap between.010-.012. The 4th ring is a much smaller gap. The 52 manual calls for.007-.015 on all rings. Before I start filing could someone please check on what the 58 truck manual says. Thanks in advance.

Thank you Keith. I watched your video and realized I was backwards. The stamped number goes on the cam side.

Before removing the trans place wooden wedges between the flywheel part of the fluid coupling and the coupling itself. Cut slots in the wedges and use safety wire to hold them snug. It’s easy to crack the carbon seal in the coupling with any lateral movement. Carefully pull the trans straight back.

I know the slot in the piston faces away from the valves. What direction does the stamped number on the rod face? My picture isn’t clear enough. I’m pretty sure the number faces away from the valves as well.