Pep48

Does anyone know the difference between the Standard Motor Products AL-97 AND THE AL-98 ignition rotors? Are the interchangeable? I have a 1948 Plymouth Super Deluxe. Thanks

I love "resto-mods". Besides my P15, I have one: 1950 Ford business coup 350 SB Chevy...Racing cam, B&M 271 Blower pushing 300+HP, Datsun rack & pinion steering, 74 Maverick rear, Turbo 400, AC/ PS, Power brakes. Back in the day we would call this a Hot Rod (the term Street Rod was never used). "Patina" was called Rust Rat Rod was called a Jalopy. Engines were called "Mills" Auto transmissions were called "Slush-boxes" ...Now I feel really old

Thanks to everyone for your input. I have ordered the correct Pertronix for my application. (waiting to receive it). In researching the conversion I discovered that the majority of problems people had were due to incorrect wiring, among other things. Here are some tips: First, get the right unit for your application. Pay attention to voltage and polarity (in my application: 12 Neg ground) Be sure to use a 12 volt 3 ohm internal resistor coil. (for a six cylinder engine) The coil MUST have full 12 volt current all the time. It must be wired directly to the ignition switch, and NOT through a ballast resistor or resistor wire. NEVER leave the ignition switch on, (for an extended period of time) with the engine not running. This will fry the unit. The RED wire from the module, together with the direct 12v ignition wire connects to the + (pos) terminal of the coil. The BLACK wire from the module, connects to the - (neg) terminal of the coil. Obviously be sure your rotor and cap are in good condition.

I just converted my '48 P15 Special Deluxe to 12V Negative ground. Before firing it up, I popped the dist cap to check the points and...SURPRISE ! The previous owner installed a Pertronix Ignitor. Thought about installing Pertronix 12V pos ground module. But, from what I have seen on the web, a lot of guys have reliability problems on a variety of engines. So, now I'm considering going back to good ol' points. I'd need to get a distributor plate (since I don't have the old one). The coil is 12V with a ballast resistor. Anything else? Your thoughts are appreciated.

While poking around under the dash of my '48, I noticed that all of the mounting screws which attach the amp meter gauge to the dash are missing. These secure the meter to the dash panel. Now I guess that I can remove a screw from one of the other gauges and measure it... but I am far from being a Gumby and and I try to spend as little time as possible in that torture zone. (it can take me days to recuperate!) So, does anyone know size, length, and thread (fine or coarse) of those screws? Thanks!

My 48 P15 has electric wipers which was installed by one of the previous owners. I don't know what the set up came out of, but it does clear the radio. The wiper switch on top of the dash operates it.

1948 p15 super deluxe I've carefully studied my factory wiring diagram, and I cannot find the circuit that powers the electric wiper motor. Can anyone clue me in on where it's taking power from? Thanks!

Back up Light Kit Instruction & Template sheets for OEM Mopar 1948 View File This was a dealer accessory. The instructions are .pdf files so that you can enlarge them easily. Pics show what came in the kit. Submitter Pep48 Submitted 08/24/2024 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates  

When I purchased our '48, there were a bunch of parts in the trunk, including a water pump which appears to be new (no box) Is there a way to test the pump if it's off the engine? Thanks!

Does anyone know of a source (aside from ebay) for exterior side window visors? (for a P15 coupe) They used to be called: Auto Ventshades, Kromvents, and Karshades. These attach to the outside of the side windows so that you can open the widow a little without letting the rain to come in. Thanks!

Hi comedetech3 First one I have ever seen. Wish I had one (I bet they are expensive). Sonny

This is a Dodge dealer accessory Motorola Radio seen on a 1933 Dodge coupe. Pump up the volume!

An interesting accessory to keep the kiddies safe on those long Sunday drives.

I'm thinking of retro fitting the headlight switch on my '48 from using a glass buss fuse to using a 30 Amp self resetting circuit breaker. Most modern era cars utilized a breaker as a safety measure to provide enough time (after self-resetting) to drive the car to a safe place. In a traditional fuse box with exposed fuses, retro fitting is easy, but the stock fuse is inside of a twist-lock holder. I'm trying to figure out how to delete the glass fuse and tap into the circuit with a circuit breaker. Any suggestions? Thanks!

The fuse in the headlight switch looks like a bayonet connection (turn and twist). I have never seen a setup like this. Is there a standard fuse inside of it?

I'm a bit confused...is there only one fuse (in the light switch) which protects the entire wiring system?? If so I'd like to add additional dedicated fuses via a fuse box.

The only additive I ever buy is Marvel Mystery Oil...but I don't add it to the oil or the gas. I use it as a "wake up" procedure for my cars after long term storage (eg.: over winter) I squirt about 1 1/2 oz into each spark plug hole, and leave the plugs out. Let it sit overnight. Next day (plugs still out) I rotate the engine several times via the crank bolt, and let it sit overnight. After 24 hrs I spin the starter with the plugs still out to expel any liquid (avoids hydraulic lock). Install plugs, and fire her up. In the past I have used a similar procedure to free up a stuck engine. Add a couple of ounces of MM Oil to each cylinder, let sit for a couple of days. Then gradually and gently attempt to rotate the engine (back and forth) via the crank. I once "unstuck" a flathead that sat outside for sixteen years without being started.

6 volt to 12 volt Light Bulb interchange chart View File Handy chart that gives you the 12 volt equivalent for 6 volt bulbs. Handy if you are doing a 12 volt upgrade. No more endless hours at the auto parts store. Submitter Pep48 Submitted 07/22/2024 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates  

Mopar Body and Sheet Metal Quick Reference Shop Manual 1940 thru 1948 View File 370 pages. Lists part numbers, and exploded views of various body panels. The beginning of the manual lists the starting and ending serial #'s as well as which plant manufactured the car (if you cross reference the mfg plants, you can see total number of models produced. Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto, Chrysler. Published in 1949 and covers 1940 thru 1948. Submitter Pep48 Submitted 07/22/2024 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates  

I'm installing a 12v alternator, Negative ground system, in my 48 coupe. I'm planning to connect the output wire to the stock regulator's B terminal (F & A wires removed). The alternator is a GM 12si rated at 78 amps. I'm installing a 100 amp fuse in the output line. The only added accessories will be a stereo (10 amp max) (no amplifier) and H4 LED headlights (approx 9 amps total for both headlights). = 19 total amps above stock. Will this fry my stock ammeter gauge? Thanks for your input.

When I bought my 1948 coupe, there was no spare tire in the trunk, but there was a (spare?) transmission and also a bell housing and what looks like a torque converter. So, I'm wondering if this is a fluid drive set up? How can I identify it? I'm not at my shop today, but I'll try to post some pics tomorrow, and look for casting or ID plate numbers. Did the Fluid Drive use the same transmission as the manual trans? Thanks!