Mr.P-15

RCL1700: This is always fun (I'm being sardonic here). As you have figured out, the problem is that if you twist the bulb receptacle fitting off, (without having removed the ((stuck)) bulb first) you will twist the capillary tube and break it. I cannot see what state your project car is in, but if the gauge unit is free to spin (i.e. not anchored to the dashboard) such that the whole unit spins at the same rate as you twist the receptacle off, you will be able to remove it with no problem. Having a friend hold and turn the gauge around as you turn the wrench can make the whole process easier and protect the gauge unit, but it is just as plausible to do it solo. Putting a strong plastic bag over the gauge will also help protect it. Once removed, it will be easy to separate the bulb and receptacle. Hope that can work for you

Hi All: PROBLEM SOLVED! All you need is a Walker "Quiet Flow-3" model 21353. It's great! No brap, no blub-blub and no loud, irritating pipe organ drone. The car sounds just the way it should sound, the way they always did sound. I must admit that I was a bit skeptical when I opened the box. Being only 58 CM long, it looked a bit stubby, and not at all like pictures of the original. Looking inside with a flashlight was not reassuring. I could see all the way to the end; how could this possibly work? "Lets leave as much space as possible just in case a resonator is needed!" I was mentally preparing myself for another disappointment, but the second the engine came to life I could hear the difference; and a road test proved it out. Perfect! Don't waste your time even thinking of a resonator! This muffler is of the proper configuration: offset in, centre out. Both inlet and outlet are 5.1 CM (2 inches). Yes, they do have another model that looks a lot more like the original, but it is centre in and offset out and not available the other way around. The folks at Walker (very helpful, I might add) told me that the "muffle-ability" specifications are identical, so, no matter anyway. If you are looking for a nice, quiet you-can-have-a-conversation-in-the-car original sound, as I was, this is the one you are looking for. Now that I am the proud owner of a nice, quiet P-15, I'm going to call Grandma and ask her for a date... P.S. Loren: this is the one you want.

18 December 2022 Hi All: First of all, thanks to SteveR, Sniper, greg g, Iowa51 and Bryan G for all the cool and interesting video and information. As per Iowa 51's suggestion, the noise seems most definitely exhaust system related. At any rate, last Saturday when I came home, a brand-new Walker "Quiet Flow" muffler was sitting on the front porch, (the first one they sent didn't look like a good fit, so they exchanged it) and this week it will go in. The folks at Walker seemed confident it would work. Well...... This muffler does not quite look like "originals" I've seen, it is a bit wider and shorter (only about 58 cm long as I remember). They did have one that looked right, but alas, it was centre in, offset out as opposed to the offset in, centre out configuration that p-15's want. Yes, I asked. It is NOT reversible. I am going to make sure that there is as much "free space" as possible, just in case a resonator or auxiliary muffler needs to be installed. Well, that's all for now, stay tuned for the next exciting episode, which should be in a few days.

Hi All: Update: Am checking out a few possibilities. So far, there is one I can rule out, (if you are looking for super quiet) and that is the Smitty. "Grandma" must be a little hard of hearing, since this one would be far too noisy. I got this straight form the folks at Smittys; (can you actually believe that I could speak to them in this "press 1, press 2" age?) they advised me that glas-paks are not what I am looking for (for those who don't know, glas-paks are all they make). I will give them a double thumbs up, however because they are available, straightforward and honest. I can see why they have the good reputation that they do. More as the saga continues....

Hi All: I have had a rather nasty time of finding a good QUIET muffler for my P-15's. A muffler from an old Mopar parts supplier produced a loud, obnoxious "pipe organ" scream at 40 MPH that would make conversation impossible. A replacement did the same. One from a muffler shop was just plain loud. Moving the muffler to the rear just caused the "pipe organ" to occur at 35 rather than 40 MPH. I like my cars to be quiet. No, I'm not interested in trying to pretend that I am still 18. I admire the guy on this forum who said "it is on" when his insurance agent asked him to start it up. Or the guy who could "sneak up on" folks at car shows with his Mopar. I want to be able to talk or listen to the radio. No screams, braps or blub-blubs. That said, looking over the forum I discovered folks referring to Walker 17827's and Smitty 30 (inch) mufflers as quiet. In fact, the Smitty 30 is said to be so quiet as to be "for grandma". Yup, if that is so, that's the one I want. My question is: "is it really (for grandma") and which of the two is quieter? The fact that the Smitty is a glas-pak gives me pause. Thanks.

Good for you! (you got off light). Now fill up the tank, take it for a good LONG ride and enjoy it as these cars were meant to be enjoyed!

Hi: Just to be sure I'm understanding the situation correctly: 1. Your clutch pedal is on the floor. 2. Your clutch is effectively fully engaged, disconnecting the engine from the transmission, driveshaft, etc. 3. The car will roll freely. It sems odd that all three forks would stick simultaneously... despite the fact that all the pressure plate springs (tough little dudes to be sure) are trying to restore the forks to their normal position. Check the bolts that mount the pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. When you say "the clutch pedal went to the floor" do you mean that the pedal just fell to the floor of its own volition, or that it just stayed there when you removed your foot? Were there any snapping, banging, etc. sounds? Did the pedal go down with hardly any effort? Also check the (my name) "motion transfer bracket" that is anchored to the frame (on one side), and the engine (on the other). This is the device that pivots by means of a ball swivel and transfers the downward motion of the pedal to the horizontal motion required to actuate the clutch. If the engine mounts are bad, (allowing the engine to move around too much) it can pop out. Pedal action will be disrupted, and you can loose the mating half-swivels that mount in the bracket itself. (On the fly I can't find the proper names in the books.) Hopefully, you did not mess with the overcentre spring. On first take, and assuming no linkage re-assembly errors, it would seem to me that your pressure plate assembly is, at the worst, kaput. Was the pressure plate assembly correctly re-assembled from a take-apart? The "all three at once" is a bit of a puzzlement. I suspect you will have to remove and replace the pressure plate assembly. BE CAREFUL! since we aren't really sure of what is going on here yet, it is prudent to assume that the a fore mentioned pressure plate springs could/would cause the whole thing to fly apart violently. Since I have never tried to remove the flywheel and pressure plate as a unit, I don't know if there is enough clearance to do so (I suspect not). If possible however, that would be the safest approach. Otherwise, remove the pressure plate cautiously, wear eye protection, you know, the usual stuff. Hope this helps.

Horn relay.