coffeepathsofglory

Just in case anyone will find this useful, as I was confused when I replaced the tank on my 1950 Plymouth last year. I ordered a replacement from MoparPro on eBay (free shipping). My original tank was out of the car when I got it but I had the old line and the extra-long fitting like diben shows. But I kept reading about this mysterious "ferrule" that I needed as well. I couldn't find it in my garage, I assumed it fell out when the previous owner removed the tank. I emailed MoparPro and asked if I needed the ferrule on the replacement tank and they said I did. But I couldn't get the new hard line threaded with the old fitting nor with the ferrule; there wasn't enough thread depth to catch on the new tank. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I think I bubble flared the line and used a regular brake line fitting from my pile 'o parts and it is working fine. If you look at the old fitting, it looks like it almost has a bubble flare on the end. There seems to be some confusion about which years used the ferrule, it seems like 49+ did not use the ferrule and used the extra-long fitting.

Just to clarify, the Scarebird kit uses OEM rotors, calipers, pads, and hoses. You can get all that stuff at NAPA. Not all disc brake kits do, though.

I hear you, and that's what I was planning to do until I saw how much I'd have to cut out of the floor. My two cents: the build quality on the Wilwood unit is excellent and you can buy rebuild kits for them. I'd put more trust in their product than a reman master m/c from an auto parts store, or a reman stock m/c.

This is exactly what I'm planning to do with my Scarebird kit. A cheaper dual M/C can fit but you'll need to cut the floor. The extra $100 for the Wilwood unit is worth the price.

I recently replaced my 50 Plymouth tank with a new unit from Mopar Pro. My original line had an extra long fitting and no ferrule. Mopar Pro told me I needed the ferrule. Turns out you either need a regular inverted flare fitting plus the ferrule, or the longer fitting. It seems like some cars came with no ferrule and the longer fitting. I couldn't get the longer fitting to bite with the ferrule installed. I ran a new line with an inverted flare fitting and the ferrule and it worked great with no leaks and no pipe dope or sealant required.

I recently rebuilt my Carter BB by soaking it in straight Simple Green, per Mike's Carbs where I got the rebuilt kit. Everything seems fine but I didn't soak it very long.

I'm halfway done installing the Scarebird kit w/hubs on my '50 Plymouth. I don't really care about the track width but did have trouble getting the castle nut on far enough to insert the cotter pin. I bought a Dorman kit based on one of your old posts I found, which should solve the problem. I assume this means the track width increased by a tiny bit, assuming the same wheels and tires? The stock wheels just barely rub the calipers with a 1/4" spacer, so I guess I'm going to get new wheels (need new tires too). I don't really want to bother with grinding calipers and definitely do not want to try grinding the wheels.

Success. I got the driver's side lock cylinder rekeyed, reinstalled, and it's all working great. The driver's side appears to only lock with the key from the outside, and the passenger side locks using the door handle from the inside. Both unlock from outside using the key. My repop owner's manual describes this as a "new" feature: never lock your keys in your car

Just ordered the disc kit for my '50 Plymouth, along with the aluminum hubs. I'm planning to replace the master cylinder with a 70s Mustang dual chamber unit, year tbd. I think I'll try gutting the stock m/c and extending the pushrod to the new one, as others have done here. I figure if you're going to upgrade the brakes you might as well do the master as well. My $.02

Hi there, I have a new-to-me 1950 Plymouth Business Coupe that has sat for quite a few years. It came with four keys. One key works in the ignition and passenger side door, another works for the trunk. The driver's side door has a lock cylinder but none of the keys will unlock it. I've soaked the cylinder in PB Blaster for a few days but to no avail. I am also confused since I've read that some of these Plymouths didn't come with a driver's side door lock, only passenger side. Do y'all think I just have the wrong key or is this somehow by design? I'd imagine if it didn't have a driver's side door lock, it would just have a blank insert and not what appears to be a real lock cylinder.