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seware74

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1954 Dodge C-1-B

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  • Biography
    I "data nerd" to pay for my hobbies: CNC, woodworking, wrenching, gardening, landscaping...
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    Data nerd

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  • Location
    Iowa
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    Everything DIY

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  1. What's the condition of the wound spring on the remote? Mine was missing altogether but I managed to find a NOS remote and replaced the rivet to the connecting rod with a brass sleeve and screw combo. Somewhere I found someone who is making the retainer portion (with the four legs bent over) but now I can't find it. Replacing this piece would allow you to also replace the spring if need be. Anyone know who is selling these?
  2. I've been doing the same thing to my driver's side of my '54 C1B. When disassembled there was only 1 of the brass sleeves present. So for my first attempt at reassembly I only had the one. Everything went together fine but the rubber tended to bunch up a little around the location where the screws went in without the sleeve. This made the wing difficult-ish to close. I suspect that it wouldn't hold well either as the rubber spreads around the screw as it's tightened. I took it back out and found some similar sleeves at the hardware store. They needed a little grinding to match the original length, but went in fine and solved the bunching and closing issues. As for how to use them: I put the screws through the sleeves and then pushed both through the outer hole in the seal until the screw found it's home in the door and then screwed it in slowly until the screw felt tight. This left the flange of the sleeve compressing the rubber slightly without malforming it. Best of luck.
  3. I've been piecing together the parts from several C-series speedos to make one clean working one. So far so good. Last step is to straighten out the mounting tab on the speedo housing. I'm mechanically inclined but not a fabricator or welder type; know nothing about metallurgy. I'm nervous to just grab onto the ear and start bending. What would be the best way to get it bent back into shape without breaking it off or weakening it? Heat? My recollection is that the housing is zinc or maybe zamac... but could be wrong there. sorry if this is elementary... I subscribe to the idea that the only stupid question is the one you ask after you bunk something up that you could have asked about. TIA
  4. '54 C1B. 1/2 ton. It's had a lot done to it in its past, some of it a little hacky. But overall it runs and drives well enough for an old truck. Needs some TLC, deleting some 1980's updating and a few things updated. Mods that I know have been done: 318LA with Eldebrock Performer intake and carb. 727 3-speed tranny w/ floor shifter Dana D35 rear-end with 3.07 gears 12V update Painless rewire Aftermarket air. This is crusty and needs to go. New gauges Needs: New rubber everywhere Steering box seals (at least) Shocks Suspension bushings Brake rebuild or update Speedo rebuild Tach addition maybe Fuel sender or wiring fix Rear end seepage fix Bed wood replacement Interior Minor body work Funny that someone put engine upgrades on the 318, but put 3.07 gears in a D35. Guess they were looking for highway speeds and not burnouts. ? At least they stayed Mopar.
  5. From the 1955 c-series book... 19-04-5 is what I thought is missing. Doh! Now that I'm looking at it again, I think I've been misreading the illustration... Shown is 1 of 4 bolts at the corners, not one at the center. That would explain a lot. If that's the case then I probably need to put new seals in this unit... It's a mess.
  6. '54 Dodge C1B 1/2 ton. Just got this project and looking it over I noticed an opening at the bottom of the steering gear box with a bunch of gunk around it. I checked the parts manual and it shows a 5/16 -18 bolt at this location. (This is on the outside of the cap that covers the shims). So I grabbed a bolt of this size thinking it would be a quick fix. But... it appears as if there are no threads in the hole. It certainly isn't biting and I don't want to force it. I cleaned the hole out with a little brakecleen on a narrow bristle brush, but still can't find any threads. I'm assuming that any lubricant that was in there, no longer is and I certainly don't want to drive it dry. Should I try a thread chaser? Or pull the cap off to see what's going on inside? Any thoughts?
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