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deathbound

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Posts posted by deathbound

  1. Nope, busted. They are trailer wheels. My originals were shot and these are serving to move it and test drive (I live well off the beaten path) until I find suitable replacements. Since they've been on, the white is growing on me but I'm not sure.

    Oh, and I'm not sure what you mean by spider caps.

     

    Personally, I wouldn't spend the time or money, since they're temporary. I think a set of black stock wheels with beauty rings and/or hubcaps would like nice on your truck. If you're determined to paint them, I would go with black, chrome lugs, maybe with the beauty rings to separate the tire from the wheel. Post follow up pics whatever you decide.

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  2. as you folks have these original shocks..only you can measure and post the dimension....there most likely are shocks out there for you.....post the dimension of the loops upper/lower.......once measured, identify them by the industry style letter/number and lets get searching....you shooting yourself in the foot going to a counter and not at minimum NOT taking your old one with you for a side by side...the engineers have already done all the work by creating the database and making it available online for you to surf..make use of it..

    You mentioned this 3 or 4 times and are exactly right. Measure stock shock(or known working shock) fully compressed and fully extended center of mounting stud to center of mounting stud & mounting stud dimension. Exactly what I did for my '38 Ply Coupe. Took those dimensions to Napa and looked through their book myself, less than 10 minutes, had the part #'s I needed. Each page has the different mounting type designation & with that and the dimensions, found something within a 1/2" each way. My car is lowered, so I adjusted the measurements accordingly. On vaca, so no access to my car for part #'s, but I think all 4 were the same (again, lowered, so stock is out the window). Good luck.

  3. those are probably made by Dorman or by a company along the same specs as Dorman and are of the emergency repair type to get you off the side of the road and to the home/shop for proper repair....these tend to be over tightened and once done so will not POP as per original design to prevent swelling/cracking of a block...while out of the vehicle and with ready access, I personally recommend putting stock discs back into the block...but as it is another person's car. each view things differently...I will say that these should not ever leak...stay on top of the coolant protection range for the area's climate you are operating

     

    Thanks. I looked into them a little further and it seems they are a permanent type plug, but can see where a concern would be with not relieving the the forces from freezing (not an issue where I live). I tried calling, but for some reason, the East coast vendors close about 3 hours earlier than us West coasters. :cool: I like the way the copper looks with Reze's black engine block. Here's a link, for anyone interested:

     http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1011-02483.aspx?origin=keyword

  4. hello everybody

    i did some progress on the plymouth during the past months.

    got the motor in, after some engine work.

    i painted the firewall and did many small things.

    yesterday i tried to start the engine, but i could not get oil pressor.

    after i tried 2-3 times, the 12V battery was discharged , and i also think i need a new starter. he blocked sometimes.

    i will try to make it work with the hammer. but i'm sure i need a new one.

    can enyone recommend me an new starter?

    sorry for my english, i hope you understand what i want to tell you ;) .

    Here are some pictures of the progress.

    26338648xp.jpg

    greetings andré

    What kind of freeze plugs are those?

  5. Unless your 6V starter needed a rebuild, it would be fine on 12V. I've been using my original 6V starter for at least 5 years since I converted to 12V with no problems. Also, had the original 6V wiring been in good condition, it's more than adequate for 12V sytems. If you're looking for originallity, Rhode Island Wire or YNZ has original looking cloth covered wire harnesses with modern plastic coated (or whatever material is used) wire inside, but very pricey.

  6. I did mine on my '38 P6 just as Tod described. Bought a NOS drag link repair kit, but I reused my pitman arm (part with the ball), which had some wear. I rebuilt my steering box and replaced all the tie rods at the same time. Steering has virtually no play. I used to get low speed "death wobbles", no longer.

  7. Who made the headers? If you shifted the kinked linkage with the spring to the other side of the carb linkage would it center up more on the carb base? One thing I found out the hard way, do not use the original "sandwich" type heat riser gasket for your hot water plate. I had to make one out of gasket material. Looks good.

  8. I must be lucky. In the 6+ years I've owned my car, never had it stall or not start when hot. No heat shields or insulated fuels lines. Maybe it's because I run an electric fuel pump? Removed the mechanical pump and replaced with a block off plate.

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