MarkAubuchon

WOW, lack of imagination?

my decision had a lot to do with bolt on versus fabrication. If you use the stock frame you have quite a few modification (cutting, welding and fitting) to make it work and look correct, Dakota frame, probably the same (Im not a good welder at all) the s10, strip the frame and then rebuild with the brackets Im using a 360 and transmission, length is ok, width you install a wider rear end, front end, different a arms or spacers. when you order the kit you tell what motor and transmission combo and they send the mounts. Original Body, trim, bed, motor and transmission all MOPAR. What I hadn't mentioned is that the truck was set to be put back all original with a few modifications, flat head, dual carbs and exhaust, T5, disc brake conversion, 8 3/4 the intent was to pull my vintage camper. After my recent camping trip pulling the camper with my F150, I realized the Dodge could pull it, but it would be a long day. Keep you posted

that's what I was thinking did you weld them in place

thanks look great

Update, had the rear spring bushings replaced, began rebuilding front end. Believed I found one of the reason the front end had so many shims on the drivers side upper a arm. Found the lower drivers side a frame bolt holes thru the frame are elongated and the bolts show wear as well. Ordered a new bolt kit, once I get them I'll take them to a machine show and have a spacer made, size of big washer with exact hole for the bolt. Planning on welding to frame. Any other ideas would be appreciated

very nice, thanks for sharing

agree with all. make sure the cab mounts are good, should also be a rubber bushing on the shift selector needs to good, if its like the cars you may need to adjust the rod length on transmission. (check the manual)

anyone put modern gauges in your truck using the existing holes/position

that's what I meant to say.

Yes, All of the cab and bed mounts are adjustable, direction say once everything is set, then you drill and install a set bolt. More to come.

thanks, really interesting. How did you find this?

Greg, thanks for posting pictures of my s10 code 504 switch

I will say plugs do and will make a difference. Used Champion originally switched to auto light much better longevity

I have the rusty hope conversion, added jeep dual MC, proportioning valves help with pedal travel when the MC is below the calipers and you have disc and drums.

Spent time looking at the Eastwood Pile House Project. From the pictures they made no changes to the S10 Drive line, which clearly sets the width very narrow. They also have fabricated all of their own brackets, since its really a tutorial on their tool offering. Project looks very nice I will say. More to come

yes I need to work on that.. question several posts have mentioned the narrow width of the s10 frame for the dodge. Im wondering if those conversions used the wider rear end and either the spacers or longer a arm. Im assuming the dodge stock rear end is 60 inches.

Here are a few pictures.S10 Frame 2.txt S10 frame 3.txt S10 frame 3.txt

still working on the pictures.. Able to get a s10 4wd rear end, disc brakes and 372 gears. pulled the original out and slid it in. Finished up bolting all of the cab and bed brackets on. Pretty straight forward. Now I plan on rebuilding the front end, adding heavier springs to support the v8 vs the 4 cylinder. They offer a frame mounted pedal and master cylinder set up. that's next on the wish list. will pull the rearend apart and check bearings and replace the seals. also sending the leaf springs out for new bushings. Truck will be all new when finished. I promise pictures are coming. Whats really neat is you don't get all greasy assembling.

That transmission is on the wish list as well. For now I have plenty to keep me busy. Officially moved from mock up to proper placement, drilling and bolting on the pieces. Then I rebuild the S10 Front end. I imagine that I will need to replace the front springs to something that can support the weight of the v8. More to come

Sounds Right, the builder said not a big problem keep you posted

Don't know, whats the difference

update, S10 frame has been stripped, sent to the blaster, black epoxy primed. Have started and almost completed installing all of the new brackets. Will say its pretty cool how they have figured it all out. installed finger tight to get the overall picture. Its easy to see now why you will need the wider rear end and either new upper and lower a Arms, I went with the spacers. Abandoned the 318 motor, missing too many of the brackets. Bought a magnum 360 and transmission out of a 97 3500 tradesman van. Having the motor rebuilt, will then install motor and transmission, mount the cab and front fenders for fit. While waiting on the motor I am going to rebuild the s10 front end. Pictures will be coming soon.

thanks for the information, great stuff

I need to remove the hinge pins, due the fact in its previous life it had what looks like a mirror was held to the door by the pin. Mirror is now gone except for a nasty piece of metal. one option would be to grind it smooth. if I pound the pin out, has anyone sourced replacement pins

Great Job!