mrbobs48

Ok Mr Adams you are right just found info on Chrysler forum motor Id's Its a P26 23 inch 230 motor. Thanks everyone for the input. Owner sent pic of motor. He was told it was a 264.5. Wow I have a 230 Plymouth motor now and I can take my time building my original motor the way I want. Headers and dual carbs. I will be driving soon again. Hello NSRA here in Oklahoma City in July

Ok its a Chrysler P26 * stamped on the block. It runs good don't know what it came out of. Transmission comes with it. I see the 218 is 23 long and the P26 is 25 long. Is that right I have been looking online for answers

I just bought a Plymouth 264.5 engine to replace my 218 engine. What do I have to change to fit in my 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe?

I used City Brake & Clutch here in Oklahoma City since I was a teen. Just had all my stuff done and its local. Pressure plate, flywheel, clutch and brake shoes. 405-261-1164 if interested. Good folks to deal with,. I think its the only one left in the state of Oklahoma

Thanks Dodgeb4ya

Ok where do I find a square tool for this drain plug. Torn down an heading to the engine shop. None of my adapter socket ends will work, do I make a square tool?

Thanks for the comments guys. SHARPS40 the length is 29 1/2 damper to bellhousing flat surface hole. Mike's machine shop here in Oklahoma City does all the hot rod guys engines. He is the best and I don't have to worry about messing anything up. He will be painting the engine Chrysler red not the aluminum color my choice. I am painting all the brackets black so the engine will pop. See you.

Pulled the motor today she was tired after all those years. She is heading to the machine for all new stuff. $2500-$3000

Pulled the head and look what i found.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I love this forum.

1948 Plymouth 218 compression test today not good. Its been backfiring real bad. So here is what I got starting with #1 cylinder. 90-30-0-80-60-70 not happy with #2 and # 3 cylinder readings. I did the oil test too. No change on 2 or 3. Called about a engine rebuild parts are $1450 and labor $1000. I am looking for a donor engine now.

Yea for me, I figured it out, I have reverse, first , second and third. The first nut on first,reverse gear shifting transmission rod is the lock nut. The second one next to the swivel is the adjusting nut to take out the slack. I can't drive it today its raining. I moved it forward and back in the garage.

Well I think I found my problem on the gearshift control rod. Both adjusting nuts were in the front of the lever. Washer and spring on backside of the arm. Why would both nuts be on the front of the rod??

Ok guys I took off the bellhousing to get the pressure off my 48. put in a new clutch pressure plate and motor mounts. Now I have no reverse, had it before all this. Ok I have read all the post on here, but my question is, the back transmission C lever has a neutral they say. I can push it forward and backwards. Where is neutral on that C lever?? It doesn't click in neutral like the front lever. I have tried every angle on it with arm on an off. My next step is the column adjustment. This is a pain doing it by yourself. What am I missing. I want to go for a drive.

My original oil pressure rubber hose to oil gage has finally rotted. I see Andy has them for $15 plus ship. Has anyone done anything different to replace it. I am not cheap just frugal.