Jim Saraceno

I just Googled the model T coil and from what I see, it works on the same principal, that is, when the primary current is interrupted, the magnetic field collapses and generates a very high voltage (low current) spark. It sounds like the vibrator would constantly be opening (just like a buzzer) hence constantly be sending out a spark. If you had leather soled shoes (much more common once than today) and if you were standing on the ground (I'm not sure about asphalt or concrete) I could see where you could get a shock. So....In theory it could work. Is there anyone here that would like to go on record saying that they touched such a car and got a shock? I've been hit by a spark-plug spark and got a shock through the car but not one from the car to the ground.

Yes, if you were "poorly grounded" but I've known people to hold very high voltage wires bare handed and not get shocked because they were not grounded. I'm just saying, rubber soled shoes would probably be enough to keep you from conducting electricity. No, the difference between the neutral wire and the ground wire is the neutral is at ground potential but is a current carrying conductor. A ground wire carries very little current. Current is not "consumed". Remember, household electric is AC so the current (volume of electricity) is just going back and forth. There is no "unused current". Current not used by the device being powered is used by the resistance in the wires. It is transmitted from the lines from the pole, not to the ground. I thought I did but I don't. I'll try to get under the car and take a picture but the ground bar is exactly what Shel posted. I wouldn't argue with that but we have many screw terminal electrical connections on our cars (points, switches, etc.) I can see where solder terminals would be best but crimp terminals can be a problem source also. Regardless, a ground wire to a screw terminal ground is better than the connections I had through the frame.

As an electrician this thread has given me a lot to think about. 1. Using the bumpers in lieu of one jumper cable... Absolutely. Been there, done that. 2. 6V Pos + 12V Neg both in one car... At first I thought it would cause major problems so I drew out a wiring diagram to see what it would look like. It should work (well we know it will work because we saw the picture Don posted). The frame becomes what is equivalent to a neutral wire in a 3 phase system; that is it carries the unbalanced currents of the two systems. 3. The coil zapper... I can't get my head around that one. A coil will only generate that voltage when the current to the primary stops and even if you opened the primary when someone was touching your car, they would have to be grounded. That might work if you had leather soled shoes but I wouldn't think so if it you had sneakers or rubber soled shoes. Maybe I misunderstood how they were hooked up but I'm going to have to take the stance that I'll believe it when I see it. 4. Good grounds.... I installed ground bars in both the front and back of my car. You can buy them at Home Depot, they are made for household 110V panels and they attach to your frame by drilling and tapping holes for the mounting screws. Then they have a bunch of hole and set screws that make solid electrical connections. I've run separate ground wires from all my lights to these ground bars. Try it, you'll like it!

My car, which has leaf springs in front and back, had a lean in front. I removed the springs, brought them to a spring shop and had them re-arched. That took care of the problem. Try taking some measurements between the axle and frame. You'll probably be able to tell where the problem is.

A clogged fuel filter should have showed up in the volume/pressure test.

It's not a steel for pulling wire through conduit. Though it does look like something you would use for holding keys, I would think the fact that it is string rather than a cable would rule that out. Also, the clip on the does not look strong enough to hold keys nor does it look like you could clip some fishing tool on it such as fly fishermen use. That clip looks like it would be for something very specific.

The thermostat that Roberts sent you is a choke type thermostat. You want a bypass type thermostat such as the ThM55 that Todd mentioned. That's assuming you have an external bypass block and pump.

I'm so sorry to hear that you lost your house. That has to be devastating. I'm glad you and May Ann are alright. I can't believe the numbers they are starting to throw out for those who didn't make it. It's a horrible loss for the whole town. The people in Joplin are in out thoughts and prayers.

Just saw the news and like others, the first thing I thought of was Bob. I hope you escaped the damage. What is with these tornadoes this year?! Be safe everyone!

I agree that you should move the fuel filter to near the tank, however, if you have a fuel filter, I would get rid of the glass bowl. For one, it is redundant but my main concern with the glass bowl would be if something happened to it, it would be pouring gas onto a hot manifold. If you REALLY want a glass bowl, why don't you get a fuel pump with an integral glass bowl. That way it is below the hot manifold.

Unfortunately, I don't remember the size (1/2"?, 3/8"?) but I do remember I had to buy several as the first one was bent out of shape before the job was finished.

I bought my carb rebuild kit for my D6G1 at NAPA. Echlin #2-5066A.

Actually, it is more accurately called a drop-in anchor. And you can get a set at Grainger... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RED-HEAD-Dropin-Anchor-Setting-Tool-2KTE6?BaseItem=2KTE5

I have bought one of every manual that I can find that pertains to my '35. I have a '35 specific, '34-'36, '36-'42, '46-'54, '55 specific (it used to have a '55 engine in it), '57 specific (it now has a '57), MOTORS, Clymers, The Complete Handbook on How to Fix Plymouths Illustrated plus a collection of parts manuals. I have used each one as each one has a little different information. As time went on, the shop manuals seem to have more and more information.

I used a set made for steel jacket anchors and a BFH.

I don't think it can be done with the engine in the car. I tried that once and got nowhere. I eventually waited until the rebuild and replaced the guides while the block was empty.

I would think you could go down to your favorite auto parts place and buy one that is for today's fuels.

If you are saying that your coil accepts the screw in type connector that you show in your picture, then what you have should work. If however, you have the more standard type of coil, there are end caps that press on the end of the coil wire. I'm sure these can be bought at most auto supply stores.

I've never actually done it myself. When I bought a rebuild kit, it came with the leather boot. I sure looks easy enough in the picture though. I guess they left out the pictures of the mechanic cussing and throwing tools at the wall because he was so frustrated.

Go here to read all about drive-shafts... http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/056/cover.htm

Here's some info about the dust covers. This site has a rundown on both types of drive-shafts...

The other week I asked if anyone had an oilbath air cleaner for sale. Rockwood PM'd me to let me know he had one and I could have it for the cost of shipping. Just another example of what great members we have here! Thanks Fred!

The only reason some pumps won't fit on some cars has to do with clearance. For instance, the standard fuel pump with the bowl on the bottom won't fit my '35 because it won't clear the splash pan, however it will bolt to the block just fine. I would think you could get a new fuel pump at NAPA or a rebuild kit at Antique Auto Parts Cellar ... http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm

I bet that is a photo someone took and posted it on the internet somewhere. When writing web articles it is easy to go to Google Image and find pictures that would suit your article and that is probably what they did. It must feel pretty cool to see you car used in an article like that!

Nope, just the one outer boot.