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Jim Saraceno

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Everything posted by Jim Saraceno

  1. Wow! I'm impressed! I once tried to drive a valve guide out with the engine in the car and did nothing but bung up the inside of the valve guide.
  2. I'm still fascinated with the idea of replacing the valve guide with the engine in the car. Assuming you can get the camshaft, and tappets out, what method will you use to drive the old guides out and the new in?
  3. My '57 manual, which would be a 230, states Radial Clearance for tappets is .0002"-.001". However later it says tappet clearance should not exceed .002" so I'm assuming the first measurement is new and the second is wear tolerance.
  4. Andy has always had parts for my '35 that I couldn't find anywhere else however, more than once, he sent me the wrong parts and then told me they should be correct even though my manuals told me they weren't. Maybe his vast knowledge started to wane on the older models. I for one will be happy to deal with someone new. I bought parts from him but only as a last resort because it was a total crap shoot as to whether I'd get the right parts or not. He always replaced them or refunded the money but the cost in shipping made for expensive mistakes.
  5. I'm not sure how you could remove the tappets without removing the camshaft. I'm not sure how you can remove the camshaft without removing the engine. I'm not sure how you can remove and replace the valve guides without removing the engine, camshaft and tappets. So... I'm totally confused. What am I missing here. BTW... I've replaced the valve guides before and I didn't consider it a very easy task when I just had the block on the workbench.
  6. The headlight, stanchions and dashboard all appear to be '36.
  7. With that "waterfall" grill, it's a '36... This is a '35...
  8. From what I see in your picture, it looks like there is some pitting which is common but it looks like there is plenty of copper left to make the connection. - Am I missing something? I would think you could just clean up the contacts and be good to go again.
  9. Sounds like you've got it figured out.
  10. I'm not sure I understand exactly what you are saying. What test did you do to determine the pump is working off the car but not on the car? Volume? Pressure? Vacuum? If the pump is working off the car, it should work on the car and the problem is elsewhere. You can determine the proper cam installation by manually pressing the arm. If it moves upward, you need to have the arm above the cam. If it moves downward, it needs to be below the cam.
  11. Joe is correct. You need to do a volume and pressure check to see if the problem is at the pump then go from there.
  12. I just cleaned everything up on mine. When I put it back together I made the mistake of using a gasket made of synthetic material. It eventually rotted and I had to take it back apart and replace it with cork. Why do you want to replace the cork float? If it looks to be in decent shape I'd leave it alone.
  13. Here is the tune up info I use for my car... Tune-up and engine specs: o Point gap: .020” o Dwell angle: 36-42 deg. o Spark plug: AUTOLITE - 306 (or - 303) o Spark plug gap (resistor): .035” o Spark plug torque: 30 ft./#s o Idle speed: 450-500 rpm o Timing TDC o Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 CW o Vale clearance: Cold - .014” / Warm - .010” o Compression @ cranking speed: 120-150 psi o Bore & stroke: 3.25 x 4.625 o Displacement: 230 ci. o Compression ratio: 8.0 o Horse Power: 132 @ 3600 rpm o Torque: 205@1600 rpm o Normal oil pressure: 40-45#s Tune-up procedures: o Spark plugs o Points and condenser (set the points first; they will affect the timing) o Adjust the timing. o Adjust the carb (done last because everything else will affect it) o Air cleaner o Fuel filters o Battery and cables o Fan belt o Valve clearance o Vacuum gage check o Compression test Breaker Points & Condenser 1. Remove distributor cap. Mark the location of the rotor in reference to the distributor body. 2. Reference and mark the vacuum advance inlet to the block. 3. Remove the vacuum advance tube, the distributor clamp retaining bolt, and the wire from the coil. 4. Pull the distributor out of the block and mount straight up in a vise. 5. Remove the old points, and condenser. 6. Inspect the wire from the coil terminal to the points for any sign of insulation chaffing. 7. Install new points, and condenser. 8. Rotate the drive to place the points rubbing block against the highpoint of the points cam. 9. Set the points gap (.020”) and tighten the screw. 10. Apply the lubricant supplied with the points to the felt wick. 11. Install the rotor. 12. Reinstall the distributor assuring the distributor body and rotor are pointing to your reference marks. 13. Insert and tighten the retaining bolt till snug but still allows the distributor to be rotated easily by hand. 14. Reattach the vacuum line, and the distributor cap. 15. Check dwell angle (36-42 deg.) 16. Adjust timing. Static Ignition Timing: 1. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC (both valves close for compression stroke) 2. Put the spark tester on #1 plug 3. Turn the ignition on 4. Loosen distributor clamp bolt 5. Turn distributor clockwise 6. Turn counter clockwise until #1 plug sparks 7. Tighten clamp bolt 8. Clockwise to retard / Counterclockwise to advance Running Ignition Timing: 1. Attach timing light 2. Start engine and allow to idle – 450-500 rpm 3. Read timing (TDC) 4. Loosen distributor clamp bolt and turn distributor to adjust 5. Tighten clamp bolt. o As engine speed increases, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance (CCW looking from front of engine) o Keep in mind the factory setting was calculated using fuel available then. Today's petro chemical brew is vastly different in terms of btu's, flame front characteristics, detonation resistance, and many other variables. While using the factory spec is fine for setting up a newly rebuilt engine, or even getting an old one resurrected. Many of us have found that using a vacuum gauge to set the timing takes into account all the variables preset with in each particular engine. Attach the gauge to the windshield wiper vacuum fitting (or other access on the intake manifold) then with the engine warm and running at idle speed, rotate the distributor to yield the highest steady vacuum reading. Then snug the distributor, readjust the idle speed if necessary and road test. If you get a spark knock upon acceleration of sustained load like climbing a hill at moderate speed, retard the spark by rotating the distributor clockwise in small increments, till the knock disappears. Now fully tighten the dist. Valve Adjusting Sequence (Cold) Valve numbers 1-12 are starting from the radiator. Open means wide open. o With valves 4 & 6 open, adjust 1 & 2. o With valves 8 & 11 open, adjust 9 & 10. o With valves 1 & 3 open, adjust 5 & 6. o With valves 7 & 9 open, adjust 11 & 12. o With valves 2 & 5 open, adjust 3 & 4. o With valves 10 & 12 open, adjust 7 & 8. Final adjustment: all valves set at .010” while engine is warm and running. Carburetor adjustment o Bring engine up to operating temperature o Set idle speed screw to 450-500 rpm o Using a vacuum gauge, adjust idle mixture screw to obtain maximum reading
  14. Sounds good but I don't have the confidence in Bluebelle to travel that far. However, should you ever find yourself in the 'Lou, let's get together.
  15. I actually almost missed it. I haven't been on here for a few weeks. I've put Bluebelle to bed for the winter and the project that has been consuming my time lately is building a bamboo fly rod. Of course, I should just keep up with things anyway... my bad;)
  16. Ah-ha-ha! Don, my favorite pub! (Don joined me there a couple of years ago for my 60th birthday while he was in town!) I just made reservations there for New Year's eve. We get there around 5 pm. At 6 pm (central time) it is midnight in Scotland at which point everyone toasts the New Year and sings Auld Lang Syne. We then have out dinner and are home by 8 pm thereby avoiding all the crazies! A shot of Lagavulen with a Bellhaven Scottish Ale chaser and the braised lamb shank! Mmmmm.... I'm drooking just thinking about it! This will get you to the tech manual about oil.... http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/015/Page01.htm This will get you to a huge selections of tech manuals... http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm That is a great resource for our cars!
  17. 73% or the average... which is pretty much many of my grades in high school (or lower)
  18. I noticed my car will do that while engine braking going down hill. Probably similar conditions. I know it's not the valve guides as they were replaced along with the valves (and just about everything else) when I rebuild the engine.
  19. I uploaded those files to Esnips quite some time ago. I used to add a thread every once in a while so people could find it but I probably haven't done that for several years. Frankly, it has been so long since I accessed them I'm surprised they are still there. The original article was printed in Auto Restorer and Blueskies made a PDF copy and sent them to me. I'm not sure why there is a problem with Esnips but for those who would like to try you can go to esnips.com and type "plymouth flathead six engine rebuild" into the search. Thanks for uploading them to a more accessible site. I wonder if GTK could include these in the "Downloads" section so they could be more accessible.
  20. I actually enjoy it getting light earlier (I hate to get up before the sun) and getting dark earlier. One of my other hobbies is astronomy and as I tell people.. "It's hard to be an astronomer when you can't stay awake past 10 o'clock." Now I can get my telescope out around 6 - 6:30 and still get to bed by ten. That is until it get's too cold outside, then I'll have to shift to tying flies!
  21. How old is that diaphragm? If it is an old NOS part, it may be brittle or not suited for today's gasoline. If it is brand new, you should be good to go.
  22. Yes Ed, that's the one. I just love it! And yes, the groom is a fast learner
  23. Ed, I loved the photos of your wedding. My favorite, of course, is the one where all the groomsmen are checking out the engine while you bride is standing all alone. I would have loved to reproduce that scene but with 103 degree temps, there wasn't a lot of interest in standing outside to take more pictures. The funny thing is the groom was a bit ambivalent about riding in the car in that heat but the bride took one look in the car and said "That's what we have fans for, I'm doing it!"
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