Reg Evans

Here's an old photo comparing the B and C series trucks. the bumpers look as shiny as the bodies. I painted mine a decade ago with Centari acrylic gloss enamel and it still looks good.

Who sells the block off plate if I remove the mechanical pump all together?

John, From your engine photo it appears that you have that diamond shaped flat spot on the block for a full flow oil filter like on Don's engine.

Bill, Do you mean my PM to you didn't come through? I did take the nut off of the underneath center intake manifold yesterday. It was the last nut I removed. I am being patient. I have given the area a drink of PB blaster 3 times today and will do it again tomorrow before I attempt round 2 of the wrestling match on Friday. Jon,The reverse drill bit sounds hopeful for one of the other studs that did break off flush with the block about 10 minutes into the fun little project.

I had just this setup on a 47 1/2 ton 15 years ago. It worked great but I don't remember how it was all hooked up.

Well...I guess my idea about picking up my big sledge hammer wasn't so bad afterall. I've just never had drill and easy out studs before and didn't want to start now. The dirty little sonofabeach!

Thanks guys. I have had my entire screwdriver collection in all the spaces between the block and manifolds except for the space under the long forward exhaust stud. It's still tight there so it's that damn stud. There's not even enough room to get a hacksaw blade in there from the under side. I did discover that the exhaust manifold was cracked in half on the bottom center besides the gasket being blown. WOW...dual exhaust ! No wonder it was so noisy. Guess it's time for some more penetrating oil ,some heat and some luck.

Well, I finally got the complete brake job done and working on Pearl ( my low mileage 40 Plymouth) A 2 day job turned into over a month. I drove her around for a couple of days just to enjoy her before I addressed another problem. The exhaust manifold has a blown out gasket between the intake and exhaust where they bolt together. A very annoying sound. So yesterday I decided nows the time......No big deal.....2 or 3 hours of labor and she'll be all quiet under the hood. NOPE !!! After 4.5 hours I turned from a happy hobbyist to the HULK with a foul mouth. Even my dogs ,who usually like to watch what I'm doing left the garage. The exhaust manifold is still stuck on the stud to the right of the carb in the photo. All 13 bolts were removed and this thing won't budge. I made myself drop this fun little project when I found myself looking for the sledge hammer. What's next????? A blow torch?

Now that's got to be the craziest thing I've seen for quite a while. Here's another one but only about 1/10th as crazy. eBay # 150104356835

Sounds good Don ! Looking forward to it.

OH....You have a goasline fired heater. SouthWind I believe. That's what all the other lines on the carb are for but the vacuum advance line. #6 is a grease cup. Yop fill that with grease and turn it in once and a while to grease the distrib. shaft.

I've read your other posts Norm. I'll TAKE IT. Reg

Here's a photo of my early 56 Truck engine. It's a 260 Poly rated at 169 HP. The later 56 trucks engines were a slightly larger 270 rated at a bit more HP.

I would look around for a brake shop that has been around for a long time. Like the 60's or 70's. The brakes are pretty simple but the adjustment has to be done correctly or your brakes will be weak. If your truck has been sitting for years you'll probably have to do a complete restoration of that system. Gotta get the major adjustments done correctly first before you do the minor adjustments. Go here for some info found on the DPETCA ( dodge pilothouse era truck club of america) club site. Welcome ! http://www.dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/B4_manual/B4_brakes.pdf If you want it done right though you might want to do it yourself.

The cap on the right is on my 40 Plymouth and on several other 40 Plymouths I've seen. It's also shown in my 40 Plym sales brochure. I'm looking for 1 more good one if that one happens to be available.

Remove the head and squirt some penetrand down the valve stem. Wait for a while and then tap it gently with a mallet.

I had to remove the outer seals I purchased from Andy Bernbum. The flexible inner ring that presses on the hub was dry as a bone and very hard. Even after soaking in PB Blaster and light weight motor oil it did not soften up enough. One of the 2 seals mounting holes was drilled off center and scored the outside of the axle hub you are concerned about Bob. I cleaned mine up with some 600 grit sandpaper and installed some real axle seals. Hope it works.

It's a 46 Ford !

Thanks Norm. I'm gonna give one a try.

15# or 30# felt ( tar paper ) works great for sealing liquid in or out.

Diamondback radials. 750-16 rear and 700-16 front. Next time it'll be 700-16 rear and 650-16 front. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v154/olddodges1/J%20Lo/MVC-021S.jpg

Looks like they grafted on 38 headlights.

I'm another one using my amp gauge on a 6 to 12 volt conversion. It's been working fine for more than 10 years.

I've done the fiberglass repair successfully sever times too. NAPA also sells an epoxy gas tank patching kit that works.