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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Inside the governor....point contacts
  2. On the interrupter switch (single post threaded stud)...use a ohmmeter... With the interrupter removed..push the ball inward, ohmmeter should show continuity... release the ball none....open circuit. Be careful to try to not damage the governor gasket as it's thickness if replaced with too thick or thin affects cut in/cut out speeds for auto shifting.
  3. If you are going to remove the axle shafts and don't have the tooling Keith's way usually will pull the axle shafts right out. Remember the eight cylinder car chassis parts are all unique...bigger and heavier than the smaller six cylinder cars. Also there are two choices for rear axle shaft inner and outer seals...be careful when ordering. Usually there will be a part number on the seals...use those #'s..plus the inner/outer and width measurements when ordering.
  4. Make it a test so we can all learn good or bad if the magic stop leak works. I have never seen a M-5 that doesn't leak a little.p
  5. I used to use a spring loaded telescopic rod to bleed brakes long ago...worked good. Now days mostly use a steel pressure tank bleeder..or a Vacula bleeder.
  6. Cannot hurt that trans...why not? Try it.
  7. Be careful with Brake Clean on bonded linings....it can and will de-bond the lining if enough Brake Clean is absorbed into the lining. Been there done that myself and talked to others...same story. Small amounts ok.
  8. Here is the picture of the FD inside section with the hole you need to line up to put the bolt through...
  9. No grease on the out put shaft bearing....Trans ATF lubes it. The shield is just a oil slinger dust shield.
  10. The M5/M6 transmissions do use 7/16" studs on the lower two mounting holes.
  11. The 3spd/M4-5-6 transmission mounting bolts are 7/16" X 14...all 1946-54...length to be long enough.. not too short-not too long.
  12. Just like a kid with his new go kart...ah slow cart!?️
  13. Jmo.. Don't vacuum bleed the brake system up through the master cylinder on an old non serviced dirty brake system. Same with a reverse pressure bleeder. Doing so can send small amounts sludge/particulates up to the master cylinder....not a good thing. ABS systems....really a big no no. New clean systems bleed any way you choose. Pressure bleeding the MC is the easiest and fastest way on our old MoPars. 10-15 minutes...done.
  14. I would think a good used choke hopefully reasonably priced is the way to go. pflaming has offered up..I would try that route. You will need the special insulated asbestos gasket that goes under it too.
  15. I used one of those a lot when I worked at a Enco station as a upcoming top notch mechanic? I think some where I still might have it.
  16. Ok 7-1/4" ...six cyl caps...mine are most all eight cylinder 7-3/4" capsnbut I will look and see if I have any of the C38 six caps and PM you.
  17. They are to be packed with grease. The inner/outer seals get old and the grease leaks out...oil then can leak in at times lubing the both the bearings and shoes some what.
  18. Isn't the hub cap inside diameter opening 7-1/4" on your Windsor? Eight cylinder car caps are 7-3/4" as I recall... I might have one but need the inner cap diameter...
  19. I too have seen and bled cylinders of the two piece dsign...common in the 30's to very early 40's cars. New wheel cylinder bleeders from china sometimes are found to not seal up no matter how tight they are. The bleeder screw threads are not the seal...the tapered cone tip of the bleeder to the wheel cylinder seat is.
  20. A couple bleeder styles... The rear one is like Marc's... Only the small threads are used. The upper larger rings are just that not threads...a modern day bleeder.
  21. Calling Mr. Adams!
  22. I'm just thankful mine has been trouble free for the last 40 years?
  23. 11.020" is not much of a oversize drum....actually it's a .010" cut on the lathe. ..a quick clean up cut. .060" is the maximum oversize on most drums.
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