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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya
    Yea see....read the god damn shop manual. That's what it's for. More owners should. It would help eliminate these endless drawn out threads.
  2. Dodgeb4ya
    The 1949-54 MoPar frame mount brake boosters do have a 3/16" bleed off return line. It bleeds off very small amounts of internal booster brake fluid leakage. This brake fluid is returned to a 90 degree 1/8" pipe fitting located at the top of the master cylinder reservoir. The power brake madter cylinders are usually a 1" bore and are exactly the same as the typical 1-1/8" master cylinders msde for 1946-54 cars. The top of the PB master cylinder just has a 1/8" tapped hole in the top of the cylinder reservoir for the 90 degree brass return line fitting.
  3. Dodgeb4ya
    Good going! Sucess is sweet....?
  4. Dodgeb4ya
    Some specs on the B4 series COE J and K models...
  5. Dodgeb4ya
    Your truck should have the larger 265 engine in it as it is a 1953...J or K serirs...(6 lug nuts) If it's a "J" series it has a 2 speed Eaton 1350 series rear axle with the most likely ratio of 5.83/8.11. If your truck is a "K" series 2-1/2 tonner I cannot remember off the top of my head the ratio's offerered...I'd have to look it up. The K Models used the Eaton 1650 series 2 speed axles...pretty sure on that part. The axle ratio is stamped on top of the differential case. The truck model/ wheelbase, HP etc. Is on the drivers door hinge pillar.
  6. Dodgeb4ya
    I doubt there is another B series COE truck with that low of mileage and still as factory built. A wonderful truck!?
  7. Dodgeb4ya
    Chrysler Corp has made many factory installations of power brake boosters on cars and trucks from the mid 1930' onward. Most of the Dodge, DeSoto and Chryler long wheel base cars and station wagons used a frame mount vacuum booster. Plymouth's first booster came out as an option in 1954. Many of the medium duty Dodge trucks of the late 40's thru the 50's had brake boosters too. The vacuum source was a 3/8" to 1/2" pipe fitting at the intake manifold.
  8. Dodgeb4ya
    Buy one of these...only a couple hundred bucks...fill the oiling system up in a minute... Start it up.
  9. Dodgeb4ya
    It's the oil squirt hole in the con rod that is most important to watch for...aim it to the cam.
  10. Dodgeb4ya
    Welcome back and congratulations on the new family addition! Looking forward for a refreshing build thread too?
  11. Dodgeb4ya
    Just fire it up...too much posting
  12. Dodgeb4ya
    1946-48 Chrysler hood hinges can be very problem prone if not lubed occsasionally.... Ending up with a sheared hinge pivot. The pivots that break are rivieted. As mentioned lube the hinges and make sure the hinges have no broken rivets. I've dealt with this several times over the years workin owning 1946-48 Chryslers. Horns and hood hinges are weak on these cars IMO.?
  13. Dodgeb4ya
    If you do buy the Miller puller...get the right one. There are two different ones. A 9-1/4" puller and a 10" puller. As for removing the two pilot bushings ...special tools are needed to remove them. The smaller roughtly 5/8" diameter bushing is approximately 4" down in the coupling and the larger say 1-1/4" bushing is right below the clefully measure those bushings to utch driven plate nut requiring the nut removal. I would carefully measure those bushings and input shaft to be sure they need replacement. Of course special meausuring tools need3d to do that unless you have a loose used input shaft to test fit.
  14. Dodgeb4ya
    The transmission is a 5 speed ..most likely a non syncro crash box...need to see the other side to be sure. Came out of a 2 or 2-1/2 tonner Dodge. No chance of using it in a car.... unless you are a rat rodder.
  15. Dodgeb4ya
    Now you're talking....finally some good stuff!!
  16. Dodgeb4ya
    Oh my!
  17. Dodgeb4ya
    Leave it alone then.
  18. Dodgeb4ya
    Ot's not too complicated of a job...just need to cover your butt on all fronts to be sure of a successful leak free WP job. Maybe Keith could do a video on R&R'ing a water pump on the flathead.
  19. Dodgeb4ya
    It might not leak... Or it might. Over the years I have had a few leak a small amount using no sealer... This on more modern stuff. Better safe than sorry. I always take the back covers off and use sealant...Permatex # 2 my go to.
  20. Dodgeb4ya
    Did you remove the WP back cover plate and use some gasket sealer on the gasket? Make note of those cover bolts...one has a thinner hex head and uses a copper washer.
  21. Dodgeb4ya
    Yea!?????
  22. Dodgeb4ya
    Good old Eric the Car Guy.
  23. Dodgeb4ya
    I use a very rigid professional type scraper...have to arefully sharpen it every six months or so. Also keep lots of single edge razor blades for tight spots. A leak means start all over!
  24. Dodgeb4ya
    Run those numbers online...those gaskets are available some where. "Olsen's Gaskets", Port Orchard Washington would have one or make it if you want to spend money. But it doesn't take much to make one. I make lots of gaskets...I love making them accurately as originals. Using good cutting tools and hollow punches. Parts stores generally have sheets of gasket material in a few different thicknesses and materials.
  25. Dodgeb4ya
    If you cannot make it...here is another part #
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