Dodgeb4ya

The above pic with two transmissions shown are R7's.

No parts interchange with a R10.

R7's use a ahort silenoid, R10's a longer solenoid. R10's also have a governor on the passenger side of the trans.

R7's OD's are engaged by a clutch core centrifical engagement design...no external governor.

Those are R7 solenoids...wont work on a R10.

Quick firm wedge em in...

Don't be a pussy doing this technique!😛

The OD brake drums are the same as 1949-52 short wheel base cars.

Use the e- brake assembly off one of those.

Regular 3 speeds use a e-braje drum offset towards the front of the car.

An awl is quick and easy.

Thread it thru the hook of the spring....other pointed end just in the shoe hole-wedge the hook end to the hole...done.

Take it to an exhaust shop.

Heve them make a new header pipe with a new two bolt flange.

The header pipe is to extend through the flange about a 1/2" up into the counterbore in the exhaust manifold.

If this is not done....sooner or later you will have a header pipe to manifold gasket leak.

I have seen this problem many times on low quality replacement thin flange header pipes with no extension thru the flange.

Chrysler went the extra mile in good engineering to design the extention of the pipe thru thenflange to garantee never a header pipe to manifold leak.

As mentioned above plus these items are possibilities on a high mileage trans...especially the stubby short 3 speeds

**Loose e-brake drum and hub nut..

**Loose rear trans bearing retainer

**Weak shift cover detent springs

**Worn input shaft bearing and or drive pinion clutch teeth

**Excessive end play in pinion shaft, second gear

Several pumps were used on flatheads...Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler...

And also the trucks.

Here is the 1957-58 DT parts book fuel pump # 1818915 listed for...1/2 thru 600 series trucks.

I have an old core of said pump showing a stamped # on the flange...

Have done them endless times hot....short regular 7/16" and 1/2" wrenches...a blister or two.

Life of a hard ass mechanic...get er' done...on to the next.

Wow! All I can say.

If sitting for long periods of time....Crank the engine over a couple of times for 10-15 seconds. 

Leave to do something else for 10 minutes...come back, pump the gas pedal four or five times- start the engine.

Has worked for me for years with my MoPar flatheads.

I have had many of those NP 420 transmissions in trucks I've owned.

They are pretty much bullet proof.

Maybe some new gaskets and a rear output shaft seal.

Gaskets might be hard to find.

I would not do anything more to it unless you had noise or grinding when shifting.

This is OE Stromberg KD bullet connector special wire clip..

On 5/31/2025 at 3:38 AM, Zukjeff said:

I spun up the original dizzy on the 1984 12v coil (that was in the truck ) today to see if it worked.

I have done enough electronics and RF to know the coil and condenser are part of a tuned circuit. They need to be 'matched' like the prongs of a tuning fork. The condenser is not there to quench sparks from the points contacts like some say.

 

 The condenser in my dizzy is very old and likely to be intended for use with an original  pre 60s 6v coil, not a more modern 1980s  coil.

 

12v battery setup with the 12v coil in the dizzy and spun by hand or by battery drill gave a weak spark.

 

The original condenser tested ok on the workbench as a 0.6 micro-farrad  capacitor but had some resistive leakage of about 800k ohms. 

 

None of the 5 auto shops in my city of 120,000 people had any cross reference for any condenser for any of the flathead motors i quoted. Nor did they have any idea of what a condenser was let alone know what stock they had ! 

The helpful person at the counter at Beeps auto let me look through their trays of points and condensers.

A Bosch GB538 intended for early GM cars looked the most generic. 

Ripper $7.00

 

It tested at a 0.25 MFD capacitor with no resistive leakage. 

 

I was correct in thinking that the impedance of the old 1940s coils and condensers is different to those of the 70s onwards.

 

The new condenser setup on my test bench gave a much stronger 'crack' of a spark.

 

A few quick mods had the screw terminal of the new points recrimped to its shortened lead.

Flattened the mounting tab a bit, cut half of it off, marked and drilled two of 3.5mm holes. Clean up with a small rat tail file.

Mounted securely in the dizzy on the upwards facng dimple so it cannot rotate.

 

Until I machine down the guts of a 80s reluctor dizzy this will do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Informative and nice clean work!👍

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

I would strenuously disagree with that statement.  If nothing else the PCV helps limit sludge build up in your oil by actively getting moisture and contaminates out of the crankcase.  The road draft tube doesn't really do that very well.  It is, at best, a pressure relief device.

I have never needed a pcv on my old MoPars I've owned most for over 40 years. I change my oil in them yearly. 

I understand how they work and what they do.

They are a good crankcase negative vent system.

Each to his own.

LARGE single window with out the vent rolled half way down ..slam the door closed....cracked glass.

Common problem back in the day on the B series Dodge trucks.

Make sure the track guides and fuzzy strips support the glass perfectly.

I'd leave the vent. I had a 46 eight cylinder N' Yorker for over 30 years...loved the vents.

There should be no oil coming out of the draft tube on a properly rebuilt MoPar flathead.

Or even the the need for a pcv setup except maybe California or on a worn high mileage blow by engine.

Good going.I didn't realize your main cap had studs.

Whole new ball game.

1946 up never used studs.

A small slide hammer would pull the cap out too.

A picture of a Dodge truck  four bolt main cap I wiggled out not long ago...3" mains...

Great to see you Wally using and enjoying your FA dumper.

Always wonderful pictures of what these trucks are capable of doing even today.

I used to use my 48 JA FB almost daily for nearly 10 years hauling tons of stuff around Seattle.

It's now retired. Replaced by a 52 JA property only FB dump truck...

oh and big red mainly used now just for farm valley leisure cruising..😁

Happy two speed shifting on the fly Wally!

Put two 4-6" long 5/16" X 18tpi bolts in the main cap.

Wiggle and pull out the main cap.

Also using a steel 12" long 3/8"+ diameter  rod pushed into one if the cap bolt holes to help loosen the main cap helps too.

You can remove those caps easy enough this way. I have done many like this.

It appears that they look like .010" under rod bearings....

But I would use a micrometer on the crank pin (journal) to be absolutely sure.

Rotate the crank away from the rod to do so.

No way to spin a MoPar flathead oil pump with a very long  blade screw driver unless you cut the gear teeth off the pump...

Tom only paid $125,000 for Lenny's parts in the end.

He shouldn't need to raise any prices.

Were all tired of endless price increases.

The 12" drums you are looking for  are front L/R drums with rivited on hubs.

You have a 8 passenger long wheel base Dodge.

It uses the heavy large Dodge ,DeSoto and Chrysler LWB, heavy chassis suspension parts.

Same as any 1949-50 Chrysler New Yorker 8 cylinder sedan, cpe, wagon or 8 pass sedan 131" WB car...

Std 12" Chrysler Royal, Windsor, DeSoto drums use a small drum hub with a 4-1/2" wheel bolt pattern. 

The heavy chassis LWB 12" drums are large hub with a 5" wheel bolt pattern and large hub 4" hole.

That's what you need.

Ask the person showing the separated hub and drum for the drum hole diameter...it will most likely be just under 3".

Don't buy just a drum...way too much trouble keeping drums true and properly and accurately mounted.

If you were close I would sell you the needed drums but way too expensive to to pack, ship those heavy drums from Western Washington.

Shouldn't weld on the frame flanges.

They will start cracking.

Bernbaum and others are selling a modern industrial fluid drive coupling reseal kit...eliminates the graphite seal ring...substitutes a hardened steel seal ring as used in dozer rollers and misc. heavy equipment. Also a sleeve instead of the copper bellows seal.

Similar design  to late the 1950 and later fluid drive couplings used in MoPar cars.

Should work fine.

The  kit will not be easy to install  unless someone has experience and good tooling.

If the FD inner hub sealing surface is damaged (pitted, worn) the re-seal kit won't fix the leak.

Then the FD coupling will have to be replaced or cut open for maching work and a front bearing.$$$$

Balancing of cut open and re-welded FD's can be a huge vibration problem.

Sadly there are not many shops left who do this repair job with 100% compentence.

But first...be 100% sure the FD coupling is leaking between the clutch driven plate and the coupling housing...not the rear main seal.

Usually these couplngs start leaking because of a cracked carbon seal ring and or crack in the copper bellows.