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yourpc48

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Everything posted by yourpc48

  1. My father worked for him in LA years ago. He was doing odd stuff like installing bumpers etc. on the original Cobras. He still has one of the uniform shirts that he had to wear. Cobra patches and all. The automotive industry has lost an Icon.
  2. Havent been able to work on the P15 till tonight. I was busy working on peoples computers and the time I would normally work on my car this week I was working on a friends 89 Ford Ranger PU. We started to pull the engine apart on this free PU to replace a head gasket and found way too much water in the engine for my taste. We got another engine and spent all my free time swapping it out. I got it all the way back together today except a vacuum line that I cant seem to find a home for. Too many lines between the 2 engines to remember them all over a weeks time. I thought the manual would show a schematic but no such luck. I will have to look at my father inlaws Ranger to see where that one goes. So when I got home this evening I drilled the holes in the frame to relocate the flex line mounts and installed them, then installed the lines. I put an extension on the passenger side to get the rigid line to the new location. I bent the rigid line on the drivers side back on itself and got it into the flex line. The original mounts could probably have been used with the flex lines I chose but I had purchased some S10 lines first and they had a 3/4 inch fine thread head on one end to go in the bracket so I drilled the brackets out to 3/4in. Fortunately I had a set of brackets from the 96 Explorer that I took the calipers and rotors from. So I bled the lines and got a good solid pedal. I have not installed a proportioning valve yet and I think I will have to tweak some little things like hose angles and twists etc. I will mount the wheels and take it for a little test drive tomorrow afternoon. Woo Hoo....
  3. Did you try Dave Stromberg in Washington state. He gets stuff once in a while. He also fabricates some of the stuff. www.fatfenderedrelics.com See what he has available. I would sell you mine but mine are for a P15 coupe.
  4. The flex line I tried didnt work out for me. I swapped for another this afternoon at the parts store but I didnt have time to get them installed completely. I put one on a caliper but didnt get a chance to move the bracket back behind the shock. I am also taking into account the fact that I am going to put the F1 shock mounts on the frame so I know I need to have the flex line mount far enough back to get the shock mounts bolted on. I had drilled out the original flex line brackets for the S10 lines so I will need to use the Explorer brackets that I got with the calipers from the wrecking yard. If I had not drilled them out the originals might have worked with the flex lines I purchased today.
  5. I was thinking the same thing. And $25 just to open and close your garage door??? Id go broke or the cars would stay in the dang bunker all the time. That guy cycled it like 3 or 4 times in that video.
  6. Did you notice the 7 gallon buckets filled with bricks and water with ratchet straps holding mine down? Yeah. I have had mine for 2 years now and it is worn out. Paint peeling off and lotsa rust and oxidation. Dont rub up against one of those poles or you come off with white powder on you. I am getting ready for a 3rd go around with rope to hold the tarp on the framework. Its better then out in the direct rain but it has developed leaks to to wear of the tarp on the frame joints.
  7. Here is a pic of the final bracket bolted to the spindle and the caliper bolted to the bracket as it should be. I worked on it till about 10 Oclock. I was getting tired so I gave up on getting the flex line figured out. I started on it but I think I will be relocating the flex line bracket to behind the shock. Oh and F1 shock mounts will be my next project. I have had the mounts since December.
  8. I painted the brackets red to show up better in the photos. Thats how much I like my fellow forum members. Normally these would be BLACK! but I wanted to make sure that people could see them and what they looked like. Black can come later.
  9. More pics. The bolt in the first picture is the one that is left after removing the other 2 cam bolts that work the brake cylinders and hold the backing plate on. This was the hardest bolt to get out on both sides of the car. It took some PB blaster and a big wrench to loosen them up and get them out. They are not threaded into the spindle they were just kinda stuck there and spinning them a bit with the wrench helped get the penetrating oil into the hole so I could get the bolt out. Note in the last pic how nice the original hub fits inside the new rotor.
  10. This evenings done list: I got the original brakes off the drivers side Brackets bolted on both sides (bolt length adjustments to be made later) The drivers hub seperated from the original drum Cleaned the spindles, and painted them Cleaned up the bearings, and repacked them Repacked the hubs with new grease (I had disk grease in them already but cleaned them out anyway) Seperated the hot glued caliper from the rotor Cleaned up the rotors Mounted the passenger side caliper Drilled out the flex line brackets for the frame to 3/4 inch for the new flex hose.
  11. I cant seem to finish the project I have. Now I soooo want to make one of those. There is one in town here (Coos Bay Oregon) that has been here and there. Mostly parked on the side of an auto shop for years. I dont remember what it was now. Hmmm I think I will ask the guy where it is. I know the guy that owns the shop where it was stored.
  12. LOL. Yeah. Poor guy. Must be rough. I think he should trade me for my shop. I could even deliver mine to him.
  13. Working on the rest of assembly! WooHoo! Update later tonight. I think I have everything I need for my basics.
  14. Yes. Only the template. Its much thinner and easier to work with than the steel. I am using 3/8 plate steel for the brackets as that is what I read most forum members have used when making their own caliper brackets. Its also about the thickness of the casting in the Explorer spindles that the calipers came off of.
  15. Checking around the oil fill tube is an awesome Idea. Its just a loose press fit so it can leak. I know mine does. Also the draft tube or crank case vent on the passengers side near the rear of the block leaks on mine. Check that one too.
  16. Got all the holes to line up on my latest aluminum template. I got some bolts at the hardware store to put in the caliper and cut the heads off. I put them into the drill and ground a point to the bolts. I put the bolts in the caliper and mounted the caliper and rotor combo back up on the car. Got it about where I wanted it and gave the aluminum plate a little love tap as to dimple the spots where I should drill out the holes in the bracket for the caliper. I also found I dont have to worry much about the space between the caliper bracket and the caliper mount. In an earlier post I mentioned that it was a little wider than the 3/8 plate I was going to fill the gap with and was going to shim it. I was talking with my father inlaw and we figured out that it was a full floating caliper so it would forgive that 1/16 of an inch without too much trouble so all I really need to do is make that 3/8 spacer and give it a couple of tack welds onto the bracket to keep it in place when I remove or install the clipers.Im still thinking about the bolts. They are fine behind the rotor with about 3/16 inch air gap. No rubbing going to happen there without a serious hub problem. I do know that I will be adjusting my tie rods in 3/8 of an inch each side before I drive it very far or I will eat a set of front tires right away. Here are some new pics and yes my template is green on one side because its made from a recycled road sign....
  17. Hey. Welcome to the forum. Nice looking Dodge. I have an original Plymouth windwing glass but I dont know that it is the same as the Dodge sedan. The original glass for mine was a little thicker than what you normally find today. Still todays laminated glass is just fine. Its what I have in my car now. I dont know what he has right now but if you dont mind paying shipping from the west coast give "MOPAR Dave" Stromberg a buzz for those rocker mouldings. www.fatfenderedrelics.com I have a set for a P15 coupe but not your Dodge. Have fun with it.
  18. I run mine on 12v without any problems. Honk in cruises and traffic etc. With the dual stockers on 12v you dont have to lay on the horn long before someone craps their drawers and moves out of your way. The dual horns demand attention. I put a 30 amp fuse in mine and have not had any real fuse problems. I did have to clean the points and adjust the horns when I first put them back in the car. Only thing I have had to replace was the cheap horn button I had put in the dash to hook up to the horns rather than the original button from the steering wheel. Ill hook that up eventually and put an oooga horn on the dash button.
  19. Thats kind of what Im shooting for. Plus the parts are all "off the shelf and in stock" except for the brackets. I think everything will clear with bolts from the hardware store as long as you can find 9/16 bolts at your local hardware store. Mine has a huge selection of nuts and bolts and I had to look in the specialty bins for mine. I am leaving the holes the factory size if I can.
  20. When I chose the 95-2001 series Explorer front brakes I didnt know how close the fit would really be. After making the bracket and getting everything tightened up, there is only about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch of rotation before the caliper hits the spindle at the top or the arm at the bottom. As a matter of fact... if I want to pull the tie rod off I might have to pull the caliper to take off the nut for the tie rod. This is the gap I will need to fill after I get the holes on the caliper to line up. Its just a little over 3/8 inch so I will make a 3/8 spacer for each side and then shim it as needed.
  21. OK so, Just to show Im paying attention I did change the grease in the hubs when I rebuilt them but Im glad you mentioned it. THank you for the reminder. Now on to todays update. I made up a bracket for the passenger side today. The holes for the caliper are just a hair off so I will be adjusting that tomorrow (as usual I have to make at least 3 to get 2). So I started with the old backing plate and some cardboard. I also found some longer flex lines from the parts store today. I originally thought it would be easy to just get a longer Explorer line as if I had put a lift kit in an Explorer. HECK NO! $180 for the lift kit version of the lines. I talked to one of my long time parts guys and he went in the back room and matched up my line to another that would swap out with mine with only a little effort on my part. $20 each. So he saved me about $140. It was a good day. My goal is to have the brakes back up and going tomorrow.
  22. LOL. It has nothing to do with the guy from the Village People or Harley Davidson. Its an awesome tool that I have on me almost all the time. Screwdrivers, knife, needle nose pliers, wire cutters and 8 inch ruler.
  23. So my wife and I were in Portland Oregon this last weekend for a training and went to a chineese food place a couple of blocks from the motel. When we left we went down a side road for fun and found this!!! Just a little Leatherman history... The Leatherman family and ranch are from Powers Oregon and thats in the same county I live in. Its a bit of a drive on a curvy road and not very many people live there but thats where the creator of the leatherman came from so they say.
  24. Did you get the disk or drum type. I had my pick of drum type. I went to that yard specifically for the disk rear because my other yards want $300 to $400 and this Upull yard said $150 so I went there the next day. Needless to say there were a lot of rears missing from the Explorer section since I live in 4X4 country. Mudding and Sand dunes here to enjoy so people blow those things out more often. Did you get the sway bar with it? I think that it would adapt easy enough but I was going to measure when I got the rear home.
  25. Great news!!! I put a little hot glue on the caliper to make sure it didnt move on the rotor. I put it on the stock 16 inch wheel. It looks like the factory 16 inch wheels would fit with no modifications. There is about an 1/8 inch of clearance from the part of the wheel that comes closest to the caliper. Here are a couple of pics. .jpg] On the down side the hose is too short to make it to the frame and be able to turn so I will be looking for a longer hose to fit or an extension of some sort. I do know that the hose will brobably end up being relocated to the rear of the A arm instead of the factory location.
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