yourpc48

I have a 47 P15. I used the Steele products because my Glass guy got me a super deal on them. I have put both front and rear in and noticed that the rear went in super easy(I put it in by myself in about 2 minutes after prep using the 1/4 inch cotton rope to pull the lip around). The front went in well but there is no up or down indication for the rubber and I accidentally installed it upside down (I think). I didnt notice it initially but when I went to put in the center chrome and rear view mirror post 2 of the 4 holes didnt line up. My fault for not paying attention. The holes are only a little off but it makes it hard to get everything put together. Fresh out of the package the seal has no noticable difference. Make sure to use the suggested 3m sealers. DO NOT USE SILICONE on the body. The silicone has acids in it that will blister and rust up your new paint job!

13 out of 17 I knew the last one and saw something odd in front of the far valve cover that made me change my answer. Oh well, Not bad for being born after most of these engines were produced (Dec. 3 1966).

Got my dot on the map. It shows my real name Dale Barrett Coos Bay Oregon.

Hey Don. Great picture. Up in Alaska we called that BBQ weather.

I always love a good project. I like to see how other people do things.

Good to know. Thanks for the info on the 12 volt.

Yes. Even if you have to run a ground from the body to one of the screws on the sender. Thats what Im doing. Cant get better than that.

Ooops. I forgot. Radiator specific paint like the Eastwood paint mentioned is a must if you expect the paint to last.

Ruth1932 has the right idea. At least call a radiator shop and ask what they would do if they were installing it in your car for you. Or contact the manufacturer and ask them. Who better to ask than the people that built the radiator?

I found a couple of threads on the subject of wiring a fuel guage in some of our beloved cars and trucks. Well I pulled my guage (because I had to) and had the cover off of my sender so I took pictures. I cant tell you the colors of your original wires since mine were missing but if you have to wire your factory guage yourself here is what I found in my P15. Includes pics. Looking at the guage and the sending unit you will see that there are numbers 1 and 2 on both. Connect 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. This is according to the wiring diagram I found online. Depending on the car you may also just see a + and - on the guage and sender. The same should apply. + to + and - to -. Obviously there is one additional wire that needs to be hooked up and thats the ignition switch to the switch pole on the guage. If your running 12 volts you have to use something to bring the voltage down. At minimum a balast resistor will get you close to the voltage. A voltadrop etc. would also do the trick. It took me a while to find the info on this guage wiring so I hope this helps speed up the process for others.

I still need to work on the heat riser issue but... the problem with the engine running smoothly was sediment filling the carb bowl and plugging up the carb (I didnt know it but there was no fuel filter). Its now clean and working correctly.

Oh yeah. I put an inline filter on the car to keep it from happening again. IDont have the filter in the bowl but I do have an odd screen thats part of the rubber seal for the bowl.

Clearly a carb problem. I thought the glass bowl on the fuel pump had a filter in it. Since it was rusty and filled with gunky sediment I couldnt really tell. Turns out that there was no filter in the system and the Carb I had overhauled had a bunch of sediment in it again. Not near as bad as the original time I opened it but bad enough. I pulled it all apart again and soaked the float bowl portion of the carb with etching wheel cleaner. Its pretty now. I put it all together and its much improved. I can accelerate and go up a hill without sputtering. Before and after . Thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks for the info. I will try closing the heat riser a bit. I have noticed a cooling of the base of the carb. I will also check for vacuum leaks. Wiper motor is not leaking (its pulled). This car sat for about 25 years without running and the carb had about a quarter inch of gunk in it when I furst pulled it apart. I hate the new carb cleaner wheres the stuff that would strip the skin off your hand??? I used a brand new dip and let the carb sit in it for like 5 days. No dice. OK degreaser but nothing else. I ended up puting the carb in Superclean degreaser for a few hours and then finished with a acid based mag wheel cleaner from NAPA. The carb is pretty now but I may not have had enough time with the wheel cleaner on the inside of the carb to clean out the little orifices. The coating inside the carb when I first pulled it apart was a rust and varnish about a quarter inch thick. I had to scoop out the sediment when I first started the overhaul process.

Thanks for the info and the crosscut image. I think I may still be having a carb or fuel problem. As I pull the choke out the sputtering is reduced slightly. I have to go to work now but when I get a chance I will play some more. I pulled the top off the carb and lowered the float level and that made it worse. I also noted that the vacuum actuated metering rod had its piston stuck. Light coat of oil and it was full functional again. Didnt cure the problem but one thing off the list. I have pulled the carb and cleaned it but who knows. I will pull and soak the carb again to see if I have a problem with something still stuck in the carb. The car did sit for 25 years.

Thanks for the info. The riser parts are not stuck as far as I can tell. I can move the flapper back and forth and if I start the car it flaps back and forth on its own. I would like to put the riser in the open position and then warm up the car a d drive it. The points however might be a problem. I do believe they are correct but I will check them. I did get the dwell to exactly 38.

Interesting Idea. I am just trying to make the car run to test out the engine. If I can make it driveable. I want to invest in the riser kit. A little money here and a little money there is killing me. I just want to keep it open for now to keep it from overheating the manifold while I test drive it. Im experiencing problems with carb studdering under even a light load. It idles great and will throtttle up without any issues. I just cant accelerate even on level ground. I have overhauled the carb. Thanks for the idea. Do you know what direction is open? Clockwise or counterclockwise to open?

Is there an alternative to the spring and weight that the car originally cam e with? Mine is missing and I dont know that I want to order the kit untill I get a studder and popping problem in the engine fixed.

I live in Coos Bay Oregon. When I owned the 48 Dodge coupe I lived in a town 30 miles from here called Myrtle Point. I had a Chiltons I purchased back in 85 but its in Alaska right now. I checked my dizzy for ground and advance weights and also the vacuum advance. All is good and I now have the dwell at 38 like suggested. I still have studdering under load. I will use the search to see if anyone else has had this issue. Thanks again for this forum. I also checked compression and have 110 to 125 lbs in the low and high. 4 have 120 lbs. Hmmmm...

You are correct. I had seen these specs before from google searches. I just couldnt find them again. I really like the page that lists the parts and numbers for the parts still available from parts houses. Thank you. I did have a D24 24 years ago and another D24 15 years ago I prefer that model but the P15 is a very nice car as well. I like the fat fender Mopars. I have read many articles at this site and posts. Thanks for puting it up on the net. I do the same for computer service help at icompute.info. But no forum there. Thanks again.

Okay. I have a 47 Plymouth 5 window that still has the flathead in it. The car sat not running for 25 years. Without pulling the head I was able to get the valves freed up and rebuilt the carb and other than what I think is a lifter tick I can get the car to Idle well but If I put it under a load I get sputtering and a little backfiring. Thought it might be the points. Can anyone tell me what the point dwell should be on the 47. I found a thread for the points on a 40 but didnt know what they should be for the 47. Right now the dwell shows on the meter at 32 dwell. By the way I forgot to mention that everything is also now 12 volt Neg. ground (not that it should make a difference) Thanks for any help....