Greenbomb
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Everything posted by Greenbomb
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Junk?
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What a great trip! The cars are always cool, but they don't mean much without the people.
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Whatever else is wrong, put in bigger battery cables. Try to scrounge up some 4/0 welding cable and new ends. Take it all down to your local electrical distributor and have them crimp the new ends on using a real true made-for-the-purpose regulation electrical crimper. That will assure that the crimp will be right. You don't want it too loose, nor too tight. One is as bad as the other. Remember, the 6 volt system has twice as much current (amps) as the 12 volt system, so you'll need much larger cables. And make sure all connections are clean and tight, paying special attention to the grounds.
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I talked to George Asche today and he has the rear seal in stock.
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Thanks! That's more than just a shop- it's a destination!!!
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I called George Asche. He's got what I need. What a fun guy to talk to! I'm glad I have free long distance on the cell phone!!! He's got all sorts of stuff I can't afford. It would be interesting to see his shop!
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Just FYI, Neil no got.
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Thanks! much appreciated.
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Does anyone have his contact information? I'd like to bend his ear a bit. thanks.
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Where can I get rebuild parts for an OD transmission? It's a '53 manual. I want to be sure I get bearings, gaskets, snap rings, all the needles and thrust washers and oil seals for both the transmission and the OD unit. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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You might try Eaton Detroit Spring. They can probably make anything you want.
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Well, the new revised info goes along with the wear on the steel washers from the needle bearing ends, so I will go with that. Thanks, all. As for the kick down switch, I'm gonna do the Pete "Blueskies" thing with the button on the gear shift knob.
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Thanks for the info. The more I've been looking at it the more I see I was wrong. thanks.
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When I took my OD transmision apart for repairs and removed the countershaft gears, the thrust washers all fell off before I was able to note which way they fit. According to my manual, there is a thrust washer and a thrust washer plate on each end. Am I right that the thrustwasher plates are the steel ones and the thrustwashers are the bronze/brass ones? It seems to me that the bronze ones would go between the case and the steel washer with the ends of the needle bearings contacting the steel unit. Anyone know for sure?
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Now there's a trip down memory lane. In the early 60's my dad worked away from home at Mayfield dam in western Washington and he bought a trailer almost identical to that. I have no idea what brand, but it was a '47 model. It had a wood stove and was painted porch and ballpark green. He sold it to his replacement when he came home full time.
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NAPA has them listed online, and can be picked up at your local store.
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Has Anyone Ever Seen This Car Color On A P15 Before?
Greenbomb replied to fedoragent's topic in P15-D24 Forum
My brother had a '48 a jillion years ago and it appeared to be Army OD Green. It was faded flat-no gloss at all. Is that what happens to Balfour Green over time? FG, the color depicted in the ad appears more green than gold and the color you like on the sample pallette appears more gold with little to no green. The color depicted in the ad is very nice and would look good on your car. Auto Paint (and others) could match that easily for you. -
New Fuel neck to fender seal....problems
Greenbomb replied to thrashingcows's topic in P15-D24 Forum
You should expect good service from Steele. The locking piece they sent with my rear widow seal was wrong. I sent them a drawing of what it should have been and they sent the right thing right away. Granted, it should have been correct to begin with, but they acted fast and congenially to fix the situation. -
Wow! A two story garage!!! What's the construction of the upstairs floor/downstairs ceiling? Any pictures of that? A very nice setup!!!
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How 'bout that- an American Ute!!!
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Wow! That looks like it was made that way. Hey, wait... I guess it was! That's really nice work- very tasteful.
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Just my .02- The windshield frame area always looks out of proportion when doing this. Usually too high and has such an unfinished look to it. But, that's all up to personal taste. Again, it's your car you should make it the way you want it. The strength issue will need to be addressed.
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Thanks for the info. I didn't think it should be bent. Oh, well, just one more thing.
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I have the motor out of my '50 Coupe and have noticed that the right side tie rod has a bend in it about 4" inboard of the inside of the right frame rail. It is bent toward the rear of the car as if it could have hit something while the car was moving forward. The tie rod doesn't look dinged up. The car drove pretty well and the tires seem to be wearing well. The manual doesn't have any pictures to reference. Does any one know if it's supposed to be bent or straight? Thanks for any help.
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Goin' with the crowd on this one, only cuz you asked.
