Greenbomb

My grand daughter went to take her driving test to get her license in their '97 Exploder and they turned her down because the 3rd brake light was out. Great! so, go to Ford and it'll be almost $900!!! A friend in the business said parts alone were about $600. YOWZA!!! Now, that's being REALLY proud!!! What the heck could possibly warrant those prices?!?!

Good ol' black primer and whitewalls- a hard combination to beat. It looks good!

Looks really good! And you oughta have real smooth boogers!!!

Glad to hear everyone made it OK. Let's hope it's done with that stuff!

Andy; The mounts I have are vucanized to a "post" spacer/flatwasher unit. It's a '50 and as Ed said, they changed about then from what they had been for quite awhile. That's also what Steele lists, so I'm gonna go with that.

Sorry to hear of your loss. Always be grateful that you had a friend like that, even for a short time. You are better for having known him.

Ed: That's what i surmised after seeing Don's pictures and looking at what I have. I just gotta get them sent to Steele for rebuild. Thanks.

Now, there's a flashback! I just got my driver's license and my Dad wrecked his '60 Imperial. He got a loaner car from the shop. the exacto same thing as this one! I got to shofer my Mom around town with it.

Well, I got up close and personal with the crossmember and I found that I have all the necessary pieces to send to Steele. Don, thanks for the pics. Your shop manual picture is a lot clearer and detailed than mine, so it's now clear how it goes together. Also, the mounts you are using are different than mine, although it appears that either set-up would work. Thanks everyone for the input- it sounds like new motor mounts will cure several problems.

It will help us to troubleshoot if we know if the sound went away before or after the drink.

Welcome! Lotsa good stuff on here. I like the whitewalls!

'50 Plymouth Coupe: I'm going to send my motor mounts to Steele for rebuild. The shop manual has a cross section drawing of the rear mounts and it shows the rubber like it protrudes down into a hole in the top of the crossmember, which it does. It shows a round piece (steel) that is below the top of the crossmember and between the top of the crossmember and the large flatwasher and nut that holds it all together. The round steel piece has an "L" cross sectional shape. The drawing is such that it looks like the rubber goes down and is form fitting to the steel ring. But, when it all came apart the steal ring is stuck to the crossmember, and doesn't want to come loose. I pried on it enough that if it was just stuck there because it is old crunched up rubber it should have come loose. It feels as if it's part of the crossmember. I just want to be sure I'm sending all the neccessary stuff to Steele. Sorry for the bad description, but maybe if anyone has done this it will make sense. Also, before teardown, the transmission (3 speed stick) would pop out of 3rd gear just cruisin' along. The right rear motor mount has no rubber left on it, the left one is pretty flat and the front mount rubber is compressed down and to one side a bit. Could this cause misalignment/binding that would make the shift linkage be out of whack enough to either not allow it to shift all the way in or to put pressure on the linkage so as to pull it out of gear? Any help/info is appreciated.

Thanks for that. Looks like fun. The headlight treatment is pretty slick.

Bob, my sympathies go to you, having been in your place. i remember when you first posted about your Dad's "Junk" comment. I got the greatest laugh out of that, and have thought of it and told others many times since. They are antiques to us, but just old to those who were there. Thanks for that memory.

The wing window suggests a roadster, to me. did mopar have a roadster then?

So, how much was too much? I wanna lower mine ('50 Coupe) and don't have a clue how much to take off.

Zoomies?

Sounds like fun, but I won't make that one. I'm gonna try to make it to Tenino, about 7 miles down the road. (If i can remember!)

Just like that...no problemo. Geez- I'd be a couple weeks just deciding what to do, then a couple more for hand wringing and then would probably say to heck with it. It's looking good!

Ya gotta have a good solid rust free unit to start with so you can keep the body work to a minimum. Paint helps, but it won't hide everything. That said, the end results are really nice!

We're praying for God's peace, comfort and understanding during this time for you, your family and all involved.

Well, dang! Ya stole my thunder. The coil and/or condenser is my guess.

Greg; Let that be a lesson; be careful what you say around the children- they are listening to your every word. ( I am assuming her response denotes that the apple didn't fall very far from the tree!!)

Sounds like great fun! As for "Now what?"- just what you're doing- Drive It!!!

Hmmmm....The heater in my 2000 Chevy PU won't get warm, like the heatercore is plugged up. It's got the pink AF in it. That may be the culprit. Thanks for the info.