Greenbomb

Thanks for the info. Sounds like several car manufacturers used the same 3rd party od.

I’ve had health problems for several years keeping me out of the shop, but am feeling better and am going to try getting back at it. I have a ‘50 Plymouth SD coupe and am installing an OD. I need a kick down switch and mounting bracketry, an OD relay and a horn relay. Can anyone point me to those things? Any help or info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Greenbomb

Next spring I’ll be able to join the most senior age group! Been trying to get back to my 50. Plymouth coupe; health issues keep getting in the way. Golden Years, my patoot!

What a fun ol’ car! They couldn’t manufacture the same personality today! Please continue to share your fun.

Too bad we can’t figure out a way to trade front springs- I wanna lower the front of mine! BTW, that’s a really sharp looking car!

Speedway probably stocks about a dozen and Allied probably has hundreds, thus the price difference. (Speedway might even get theirs from Allied!) Both units appear to have the same specs, so either should do. “They” say the resistors get really hot in use; maybe you should go with a higher wattage unit. Same voltage and current ratings and ohmic values, but higher watt rating to handle/dissipate the heat. And mount it on a heat sink of some kind (hunk of aluminum flat bar) where it will get some air flow. Use heat sink compound, also.

Back in ‘64 I sort of inherited a ‘46 Town Sedan. It was just an old car that didn’t run so I tore it apart to fix it. I had no idea what was wrong with it. Dad got tired of it sitting around and one day it disappeared. DOH!!!!!

This is good information to remember. Thanks for doing the “R&D” for the rest of us!

A factory manual is a must, imo. It’s not just useful, it’s quite entertaining, also.

You are having too much fun!!! The battery is an excellent idea!

Just an FYI, one reason the factory had for stacking a bunch of connections on the starter, for one example, was to save 6&13/16” (or whatever) of wire in the manufacturing process. A nickel, a nickel there. It adds up to BIG bucks for the factory.

I will definitely keep that in mind. Thanks.

Thanks,Greg. Good info!

Thanks Greg and Ken. No excuses now! I’ve been thinking about doing the manual kickdown sw.

can anyone tell me where I can procure some O.D. Parts. Putting O.D. In ‘50 Plymouth coupe and need a kick down sw. w/mounting bracket and operating linkage. Also need an O.D. Relay and might as well replace the horn relay. I checked Roberts to no avail. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

My 50 SD coupe has a model 550 heater unit. There is a capillary tube from the defroster duct to the water control unit under the dash. What is the purpose of that and how can I test it to see if it is properly "doing its thing"?

Thanks, Young Ed.

Does anyone make new "tubes" that go from the heater core box to the firewall? It's a 550 heater unit and the "tube" has a bunch of odd angles to make a convoluted 90 degree angle. I also need a new glove box as it appears the beavers got to the one I have. Thanks for any help/info.

What Mark said.

Thanks for the info.

Anybody know where I can get a new heat riser spring? Thanks for any help.

I'm installing the water pump and the thermostat housing. The bolts protrude into the water jackets. What should I use to seal the bolt threads. Will plumbers Teflon tape work? I also have some white teflon thread goop. How about never-sieze? Thanks for any help.

Try the outfit on River Road just heading out of Puyallup. Can't remember the name- should be in the tacoma phone book.

Looks good! And it's some great inspiration. There are a lot of different priced seats in the ballpark, but mine cost $2800, with no periferals.

Looks like it will be the engine from above and the trans from below. This will be a good time for the grandson to get some OJT.