PatS....

Thanks for the ride...that was fun. Love the sound of the flat six. Looks like you won't need snow tires with studs like we need for the next 5 months.

I've been watching "Hoarders" quite a bit...like a deer in the headlights:eek: And when the show ends, I go clean out something that's a flat surface that someone has piled high with mostly crap he might need someday! I gave my old car mags to my buddy who was bugging me for them...funny how I don't miss them at all. I have a trailer now for trips to the dump and since June I have done 5 loads. I mean just how many little hunks of 2X4 does a guy need? I decided that if the hunk is 8 feet long, I'll keep it...otherwise it's gone. Same kind of rules for other crap that tends to creep to overflowing. I still move very slow but it's getting done. It's very liberating to have all that crap gone and room to move and concentrate on just a few things. Still have a few Hot Rod magazines but they are in magazine files and sorted, not in piles ready to fall. Oh, and I got rid of a pool table as well...the neighbors love it and I play more now than when it was piled with "important" stuff at my place. Next...the Chrysler...gotta get off the meds for that though.

Taken at a local show n shine about 5 yrs ago.

I have more pics and there is an article upcoming in Hot Rod Magazine. I could post the rest of the pics if there's any interest.

I had a 64 Mercury Marauder 2 door, buckets, console 390 auto back in the 70's. Same body as your Galaxie except the roofline was different. That car was the best highway car I've ever driven. It seemed to hunker down and get closer to the road the faster I went...and I went fast. Handled perfectly. Your gonna love driving that Galaxie This is a web find, but mine was identical...except the wheels. I had a set of ET's

I've seen flatties and hemi's in both welders and air raid sirens. They were used for every kind of stationery power there was. Would make a great generator engine. (motor?) Here's a 1910 version of a "portable" compressor. http://www.shorpy.com/node/9403?size=_original

I like it. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/segment/sema/sema-2010-derelict/

I have used POR15 in two places, on the back of the rear bumper on my Ford Econoline. Now the crap that is flung up there doesn't stick and it may not rust like the first one did. And, on the underside of my old lawn mower. I read that POR15 would prevent the grass from gumming up the works under there so I don't have to clean it. So far so good. Grass doesn't stick anymore and I don't have to clean it. I haven't used it on an old car and can't see a time when I would.

My Dad used to use charcoal bbq briquettes under the pan in the -40 weather, along with a block heater and bringing the battery in the house. Then...he built a heated garage

"1949 Very Solid 2 door coupe Fastback style. NO Engine or Transmission. NO Seats otherwise complete...i believe this can be mounted on a Chevrolet S 10 frame. All body parts trim and glass. $500 obo or trade for anything of interest. 403-863-1979 mailto:LIL79RED@TELUS.NET I have a few more pics." http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1949-Dodge-2-door-fastback-Winter-Project-car-RARE-W0QQAdIdZ243592842# ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have seen the car...it's all there and in very good shape...usual rust. It's been for sale for about 2 1/2 yrs

I treasure my collection of MoTor Manuals...very very useful and detailed. Haynes is a very poor imitation.

About 60 miles west of here, the mountains start when you see rocks the size of Greyhound buses on the road, and grizzly bears watch you as you drive around the rocks. Oh, and the sun disappears behind the mountain peaks. From the Icefields Parkway...this side is foothills...other side is mountains This is our Foothills as seen from the city. See the line between the city and the rocks? Come see us sometime:)

Snow for a week now, very cold...zero f and falling for a daytime high. Might get to freezing on Wed of next week.

These are of my dormant 49 Chrysler if they might help...it's a club coupe...the rockers are factory. This one is drivers side under the rear quarter panel...shows how the quarter is attached to the outside of the rocker Drivers rocker minus the rusted portion Inside the drivers door floor. Hope it helps a bit get that old girl on the road

Our Pick-N-Pull here currently has a 58 Dodge (Canadian) 4 door flat six auto in the For Sale lot. Complete, on flat tires but in pretty decent shape. At least they will give someone a shot at saving it before it gets cannibalized.

As for the T&C...I'll take modified to THIS anyday. (yes, they still crush T&C's )

Another Mopar woodie by the same shop. http://hotrodsandhobbies.net/webgallerys/0510/Vaughan%20%2739%20Woodie/vaughan_39_home.html

That generation did not waste time and effort whining and blaming and asking for "compensation". They knew why they were going and accepted the consequences. A foreign concept today...gotta have someone to blame. Those guys were as tough as nails. And pure class as well. And thanks to all those here who served...you are class acts as well.

As long as the car goes down the road and the driver has a smile, it gets the thumbs up from me. Looks like a first class job of installation, nice and shiney. Keep us posted on the progress!

A co-worker always wraps his cel in tin foil at night. He firmly believes the above!

I think this 6 year recommendation by the tire industry is yet another scam to scare folks into buying new tires. I have been buying used tires for my project cars since I was 16. I never knew there was a way to tell the age of a tire until last year. The tires on my 94 Econoline are 8 yrs old, in perfect shape and are staying put where they are. It's over 1600 bucks for new and these have less than 50,000 on them. If the tire industry has reduced themselves to making tires that are unsafe at 6, I hope they are prepared for lawsuits out the ying yang because they would deserve it.

Here's a copy that's a bit clearer. Good info to know but in my time I have driven on tires older than 10 yrs and had no trouble. How to tell if a tire is old and tired By Brad Bergholdt San Jose Mercury News Several readers responded to my column on tire numbers and asked how to read a tire's date of manufacture. With modern tires' long tread life, it's possible to encounter tires that are beyond the six- to 10-year life span that's now recommended by several manufacturers, regardless of tread wear. RVs, boat trailers and classic cars are driven infrequently and often fall into this category. One may even find a new tire that's actually several years old, still on the shelf. Research indicates the likelihood of tire failure increases considerably after about six years of age. While sunlight, ozone and heat accelerate aging, even spare tires and those in storage can be affected. Sidewall cracks are one sign, but sometimes aging can be difficult to observe. Here's how to read when a tire was made: Look for the tire identification code on the sidewall, containing 10 to 12 digits. It's usually found close to the wheel and is preceded by the abbreviation DOT. The code lists the manufacturing location, tire size, manufacturer's code and the week and year the tire was manufactured. You may need to check both sides of the tire as the full DOT code may only be on one side. Tires made since 2000 use the final four digits to indicate the week and year it was built. For example, 1505 means the 15th week of 2005. Earlier tires have one less digit, omitting the decade. 155 indicates the 15th week of either 1985 or 1995 an oldie for sure. By the way, the most important thing you can do to enhance safety and fuel economy is to regularly check and maintain correct tire pressure. Low tire pressure wastes fuel, causes tire overheating leading to failure, and reduces wet weather traction. Tires should be checked when cold. Use the recommended pressure listed on a sticker on the driver's-side door or door pillar.

On an automotive fluid drive there is no flywheel. The clutch is bolted to the fluid coupling which has the ring gear on it. (fluid coupling looks like a torque converter) The "fluid coupling" is what makes it possible to let the clutch out without stalling the engine. With a flywheel the engine would stall. The fluid coupling replaces the flywheel No need to remove the "fluid coupling", remove the transmission, support the back of the engine, remove the bellhousing, unbolt the clutch from the "fluid coupling". This is an 1949 Chrysler M6/fluid drive setup...should be very similar if not the same as a fork lift setup These 8 studs go onto the rear of the crankshaft...there is no flywheel, you shouldn't need to remove the fluid coupling to do a clutch job

Well, I just read all 27 pages of this thread and it sure is a great read. He's doing a great job on it. I like how the nose is slanted back a bit. I also like how his wife let the big beautiful hemi into the house for safe keeping...that's an understanding wife!!!