Jump to content

paulseed

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

10 Good

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1950 B-2-B purchased in 1975 - used as light hauling extra vehicle till 1989 -could not get legal break drums - parked in yard. due to leak in water pump the cooling tube rusted in and I could not replace with new water pump result - over heating and bad breaks. After a few years of neglect and a move to Ojai, Ca and started cleaning it up. To fix the breaks checked with people that suggested get new bolt on replacement front disk breaks but found that at that time they were only made for Fords and Chevys, so I had to go with a Mustang 2 frt end kit. I do not weld so had it put in by local muffler shop. When the dodge 6 would not fit back in without some cost and Muffler guy had a line on a Chvey 350 with trany. I went that way with Chevy truck rear End and breaks. That all done buy 2007 been on the road with it sense then .

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    An old guy that likes cars and trucks
  • Occupation
    Seed sales

Converted

  • Location
    Ojai, CA
  • Interests
    1950 Dodge B-2-B
  1. I like really much this hobby,because I owned mine B3-B since 1987 and now it is in a good shape.I owned too a Jeep Willys WWII MB 1942 since 1982 and a GMC truck 6x6 2 1/2 ton WWII 1944 since 2005.I hope to receive more contacts in portuguese like as Bradley.I like more this forum and think these guys are very interested in this hobby too.Congratullations for all of you.Regards.

  2. If a B2B will fit see my listing in truck parts for sale - I'm in Ojai, CA. I had a break job done in the 90's some 10,000 mi ago they were OK then should be still good.
  3. I’ve been using this method to clean and de-rust my B-2-B for the last 3 years now. This truck is not a rush job - it has been a year but I’m back on it now. Right now I have the whole front clip in a 4ft by 6ft plastic swimming pool with a steel fence post as the (+) sacrificial electrode. It works well for me but I do not fully understand the electro-chemical magic – there seems to be a need to space the electrodes equidistant around the rusty part. I check the part frequently and move it as one side or edge looks clean. The largest part so far was the trucks bed sides that took 2 days each with my 3 amp battery charger. One of the braces on the part came out with light pitting in of its surface where there did not seem to be rust. If there is much rust it takes the rust off and leaves a pit. In this case my hunch is that because I left it in over night it was done with rust and started on the metal. When the part looks done I remove and presser wash it off –taking rusty colored junk and most of the old paint
  4. Good job Bob I'l take the lime green from Brazil:)
  5. The reason I seek a B-2-PW Pan is to replace my pan that is on a 53 Plymouth engine so that it will fit above a new frame cross member needed to install an independent front suspension. My Plymouth engine (P24*531712 motor # stamp and A2.2.53 cast on the block) was in the Dodge B-2-B truck when I got it. Looking at a picture of a side sectional view of the L-6 engine, the Plymouth and the Power Wagon of that era had their pan sump at the rear of the engine. However my Plymouth's pan sump starts its curve down to form the sump at about 12 inch back from the forward edge of the pan in The 1950 “Dodge Truck Shop Manual B-2 series” on page 175 a side sectional view of a B-2-PW looks as if it starts its sump curve just aft of the midpoint between crankshaft bearings # 2 and 3. so if a PW pan measures about 15 inch from the forward edge of the pan to the start of the curve down for the sump it may fit. Any one have an idea on this?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use