Bobacuda

Tank was empty. Put 4 g in, primed carb, it started. I gues. It is just trying to keep life interesting.

No large, observable leaks. I did find that small weep on the input side of the fuel pump. Can’t see anything obvious. Oil smells like oil - can’t smell gas in it. I’m going to reflare the steel line, reattach the brass fittings that allow the rubber hose to fuel pump and replace the rubber hose. After that, I am pulling the top off the carb and checking the float level (I noticed the top gasket was fuel soaked, but no major outside leaking.) Back to snipe hunting.

ggdad1951 - For the record, my responses to Dan have not been to sale or trade parts. Read them and you will see that. He is missing some carb small parts and I have a couple of parts carbs. If I valued the parts to sell them, I would probably keep them. However, I am giving him the carb small parts. Member to member, paying it forward, no strings attached. I like the idea of helping someone get another of these trucks going. Hope this clears things up. Bob, aka “Bobacuda”

Los - your story is why I’m trying to find if anyone has experienced the fuel pump on a Mopar flathead dumping fuel in the crankcase. I have no symptoms of gas in the oil that I recognize, but since that may be a possibility, I figured I would ask. I plan on putting more gas in the tank, checking the oil level, then going to the gas station (20 mile round trip) to fill up. I will check level with a rubber hose. As soon as I get home, I will check the oil level and look for leaks. I will check gas level with a rubber hose.

A friend of mine that lived in Alaska told me they would put diesel or kerosene in the crankcase to thin the oil in winter. As the engine warmed, the diesel or kerosene would burn off. On this, I only know what I was told. But i also know gas would burn off faster. I will gas can it enough to get back to a gas station (using non-alcohol gas) and will keep working on it.

I filled my B4B, drove about 150 miles and ran out of gas. The truck has been gettin about 15-18 mph, so this should not have happened. I found a minor weep at the rubber line from the steel line to the fuel pump. Fixed that. Float working fine, can’t find any other leaks and it’s hard to believe that could have weeped about 7 gal unless it was really squirting out at 50 mph. Another thought - I have never experienced a Mopar fuel pump diaphragm leaking back into the crankcase. Have any of you experienced this? What symptoms did you observe? I checked the oil after the truck had set a couple of days. No gas smell and about the level is about where it normally is. I would assume the engine heat would vaporize gas if it got in the crankcase. Otherwise, if that weep was not the culprit,I’m stumped. Thoughts?

I passed on buying one several years back for $850 (if I remember correctly). The bed needed all sorts of metal work, the door windows (sliders, not roll up) needed rebuilding, clutch was frozen, and it didn’t run. The whole thing needed a rebuild. The deal killer for me was the grille and nose are fiberglass, and these were quite rotted. Try finding those. Still, I have often wondered if I should have bought it. Anyhow, looking under it, you couldn’t miss the Powell body was cobbled on to a ‘41 Plymouth frame.

Loaded my clan into our ‘53 Dodge for the local celebration. Grandson really enjoyed tossing candy to the crowd.

Got the replacement fuel gauge from Kevin, then spent several hours contorting to get far enough under the dash to disconnect the oil pressure line and make sure that I did not break the heat gauge line and replaced the faulty gauge. The fuel gauge is once again functioning. (Thanks again, Kevin) What better way to spend a 100 F day with 80% humidity?

Finding a new clutch saga... Tried the local parts stores, could not get one that fit. Seems everyone can get heavy duty Chevy truck clutches, or clutches that fit newer Chevies. Ordered two "exact fit" clutches from Rock Auto - had to send them back because they did not fit. Ordered one "exact fit" clutch from Parts Geek - had to send it back because it did not fit. I started missing times past when I could have ordered a clutch for a old car from JC Whitney. Feeling nostalgic, I looked them up online and discovered they had morphed into Carparts.com. Went to their website and ordered an "exact fit" clutch. IT FIT! And, it cost about $50-$75 less. If ordering parts online, might want to check with tehm as well as the usual sources.

And that's what happens when I use my cell phone rather than the computer - the klutz in me really comes out. Sorry about that Kevin. Bob

I checked the fuel gauge using both Ken & Merle's testing methods. It appears my fuel gauge is busted. Great... I'm trying to get the truck ready for the local July 4th parade and associated car showings. Ken - please PM me with info on another gauge and the cost. It will have to be sent to Comfort, TX 78013. Look forward to hearing from you. Bob

This one is causing me to scratch my head. The gauge was working (within reason) until a few days ago, then it acted irratically, an now only reads E. I get 6 V all the way to the sending unit. I pulled the sending unit and it appears to be working. Additional grounding did not help. Before I fight the short wires and mechanical connections behind the gauge cluster, any thoughts on what else to try?

The trans has been rebuilt. The photo is the flaky gear. Look at the pitted teeth and the wear. Only gear that needed replacing. One bearing felt like it had sand in it. The other felt like loose chunks of metal - would sometimes stop and have to be forced to turn again. Guess 70 yrs was the lifespan.

Ken nailed it on the cluster gear in the trans. It was pitted and showed wear. Although it would still have been serviceable, failure was in its future. Other than that, the bearings, bushing and seals were shot. Trans guy was surprised how well it had held up over the past 70 yrs (first time it’s been opened). Challenge now is to get someone to sell me the right clutch. Rock Auto (two) and Parts Geek (one) have the 9” clutch advertised, and then they send me a 10”. Can’t anyone use a damn tape measure to get it right?

And if you have never seen the bearings, seals and “drive bar” inside a GM Torque Tube (a Royal PITA to replace). Not in the photo is the “Okie Seal” that goes in the TT right behind the transmission.

The pumpkin (3.70 ring gear)

Diff from my late FIL’s 54 Chevy wagon (I now officially hate the GM Torque Tube). Hasn’t been opened in 70 years. It was growling and groaning; however, the diff guy said the axles and gears are all OK. All the bearings are shot and being replaced. Note the NASTY old gunk in the housing.

During the “got brakes” test drive, the 3 spd trans groaned and the diff growled like a demented junkyard dog. And that started my learning experience with the enclosed driveshaft (Torque Tube). ROYAL PITA. Took about 10 hrs to get this out of the car. The TT and the diff are unique - got to take it all in to an old school shop for a rebuild. Taking in the trans, as well. While in there, I’m changing the clutch. Chevy trans definitely smaller and lighter than a comparable Dodge trans.

Pumped the brakes today, mashed down on the brake pedal - NO LEAKS! Hopefully, it isn’t just holding back so it can crush me tomorrow.

There is a copper washer under the part that looks like a nut. That part goes through the distribution block, and another copper washer, then connects to the back of the MC. Neither the new MC or either rebuild kit had those washers. Parts store looked at me like I was nuts, so I got an assortment pack from Harbor Freight. The washer closest to the MC fit great. The one under the nut head needed a larger opening. Another gift from a GM engineer… how to make a 30 minute job into a 3.5 hr job. Using a round file, it took damn near 3 hrs to open the hole and keep the opening round. In the photo, you can see the new copper washers. Did not leak so far. Should have a better idea tomorrow. Interesting, the photo is upside down, looking like a mirror image.

The leak now appears to be from the steel line (on the right) to where it screws in to the part that looks like a nut head. If not that, it could be at the copper washer between that “nut head” and the cooper washer under it. At least I can get to those without having to pull the MC, again (I hope).

The master cylinder on this ‘54 Chevy wagon never misses a chance to frustrate me. Original MC rusted and frozen, so I took the leap and bought a new, Centric MC. Even with a lift, it’s roughly a 6 hr job to remove and replace. And the new one leaked like a pig. Pulled the new MC out and bought a rebuild kit that the parts vendor guaranteed fit - wrong. The kit fits a 1” bore and the MC’s for this car have 7/8” bore. Tried repositioning the rubber parts, reassembled with the new MC’s parts and installed. Didn’t leak UNTIL the brakes are pressed hard, and it did not hold pressure. Finally found a vendor with 7/8” rebuild kit, put it in and reinstalled. Did not leak and held pressure! And the leak showed up 3 days later, but from a new location.

For those of you that have not experienced a torque tube, here are some photos. There is a ball and trunion u-joint in the housing behind the trans. Inside that tube is a long axle-like shaft to connect the drive train. Want to remove the torque tube to remove the diff housing and pull the pumpkin? You have to open the diff and pull the axles first. Not shade tree mechanic friendly. and my phone flipped the photos - would be easier to pull if the car was on its roof…

Installed a new (Centric) MC, then had hell bleeding and adjusting the brakes. That’s when I discovered the new MC leaks - dammit! I live in a rural area, so I took a short test drive, squirting brake fluid every time I used them. Pretty sure the clutch and throwout are pretty much shot. The diff is quiet on acceleration, growls like a deranged junkyard dog on deceleration. My FIL was deaf and never heard this. Oh boy, more weird GM engineering to learn about - the torque tube (no driveshaft).