Jump to content

Plymouthy Adams

Members
  • Posts

    33,866
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    476

Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. That is why I did not quote any formula's as most folks can read a meter and hook up a wire..if you go back and read my findings..you will find that the current did jump higher...in the 12 volt pushing the 6 volt motor the current was quite bit higher...using your own formula above..we have...(motor read about 1.9 ohm vlaue..and will be constant regardless of applied voltage) 12.62 volt divided by 1.9 ohm for a current of 6.64 amps which is close to the 7 amp listed above in my finding for run current..remember the surge will be greater 6.2 volts divided by 1.9 ohm for a current of 3.26 amps slighlty less than the 4amp shown om my digital meter as I posted but remember..we dealing with benchtop wiring and non calibrated instruments..but the theory proves itself..push the voltage..you push the amperage... As stated earlier..the winding of the 6 volt motor compared to a 12 volt motor is the difference in the amperage...wish I had a 12 volt motor winding I could get to real easy.. Also using the dropping resistor of 1.3 ohms with the 1.9 ohm motor pushed by 12.62 volts gives you current of 3.94 amps...again where my test setup ball parked the reading
  2. you best not use any hand held meter with current without a shunt or at best a digital amp probe that will convert amps to milivolt and read on the voltage scale..my best hand held meter here will only internally shunt up to 10 Amps...even the higher units usually cut of at 20 Amps Don, I think that an analog meter would be better to do this test with and as Don said..anything over .100 volt (1/10th volt) is a failure when doing a voltage drop test..I have a couple analog meters laying about this place somewhere and Ithink about 6 digital meters...got to have enough to just leave laying and still have the ability to test something somewhere else in the shop...grabbed a few of these here and there at good prices at flea markets etc...
  3. its is confusing at time..built on the Concorde chassis...low line Suburban..high line Savoy..like I said earlier..the most distinctive feature is the beltline on the Savoy and not on the Suburban.. I have seen the Suburban script come up on the bidding place now and then..I do not have any extra to pass your way...one guy on this page may chime in as I know he parted a couple out in the past..I know one was a Savoy..not sure about the other..
  4. yes..I did not say B-body as they are getting harder and harder to find and priced as such...
  5. if this is a straight axle the perches are forged into the axle on all that I have seen...(parallel leaf app.)
  6. Ed..is good you have a source to have them made..would not think that be done in my local area....
  7. definitely won't be many of these at the RV round-ups...wonder what the guy has for reserve? if he got BJ fever probably gonna run way up there..and who is the single bid win bidder..is he for real...I have doubts when I see this on a pricy item...
  8. keep in mind that you are doing exactly the ting most of the 4WD trucks are doing in reverse..they going up..we being going down..they over, we be under slung..principle is the same so they have a nice selection of extended length U-bolts for a fair price and on hand...
  9. I have Fatman spindles on the 41 Dodge..no blocks in the rear..the rake is the look I like and thus will stay as is...it is not severe but you do see it...
  10. Alrighty now...I just got in from the laboratory..(shop in my case)...here are the specs from using a 6 volt fresh charged battery..12 volt fresh charged battery..one 6 volt heater motor and my clip on amp meter prope and digital (110 volt) multimeter..zero'd the meter to the probe...also I check this against direct analog reading on the 10 amp scale just to bench mark the set up. 6 volt...surge to 7 amp start current and runs on 4.79 amp constant draw at speed. analog with 7 start and 5 run show on the digital. 12 volt...surges to 17 amps start current and runs on 9 amps constant speed and may I add very high speed... using a 2 ohm dropping risistor rated at 25 watts..when connected to 12 volts will surge to almost 5 amp on start and run at 3 amps constant and just under speed..and in four minutes the resistor is quite warm.. using a Chrysler ballast resistor on 12 volt it will surge to 7 amp start current and runs constant at 5 amp draw...and runs very much to speed as that of the normal 6 volt operation..after about 4 minutes run time the resistor is warm to touch and feels about the same temp as the 25 watt'er did... Third test put the 25 watt resistor and the ballaster in parrallel to each other and in series with the motor yields a current draw of 6 amps..slighly higher speed and after 4 minutes the combination of the reisistor was just warm. As the ballast resistor is about 1.3 ohms I feel if you go to your local electronics friendly and get a ceramic housed wire wound resistor in the neighborhood of 50 watt or better and then mount that on a piece of aluminum as a heat sink..you should be on the money with speed and current draw equal to stock while running 12 volt and the added heat sink further increase life of resistor.. I imply no guarantees on your configuration or results as that is outside of my ability to look over your shoulder.. HAVE FUN
  11. just keep in mind that if you do use the Runtz type dropper..the motor will surge before returning to the slower speed..you may or may not notice this...if you do..this will be normal..
  12. well by definition the roll-over valve is such that if case of a titz-up condition of your vehicle..it is designed to relieve any pressure in the tank and also drop down and block the gravity flow of fuel from entering the line...this is probably mandated by law even for new tanks for retrofit...they must pass a 360 roll without any leakage of fuel. you definitely do not want it to be in aposition of restriction by jambing it against the body...but of course..with these old cars..the inlet hose is still not anti-siphon and leak free..but at least it should prevent major spill or fuel present in the eingine compartment..
  13. you can use strips of 3/4 inch spruce...paint it up nice..should last a long long time...glue these strips in place while you jostle it about mounting it.once in, firmed up they should be there forever..as for venting the roll over...there should have been directions...
  14. funny but that rear panel and lights make me think corvair... have since looked at the article on the HAMB...I see the headlights were changed..maybe the local law had something to do with that part..but the butcher to the dash from original...hard to imagine the why and wherefore of someone doing that...guess it is unique in the fact that it is still out and about after all these years.
  15. Bob..The Savoy is the more expensive trim model..you should have the beltline molding on your car..the Suburban is the lesser cost model and very stark..I have found a set of beltline I think I will add to my wagon though. IF I should ever break my rear glass I will make an insert of metal to allow me to use flat cut glass and stay away from the slighly curve rear glass that is in there now..that may cost a bit in the long run. As for the rear channel rubber...I had a mold made and rubber extruded for my wagon...other pieces were to be made also but the ball has been dropped by him and he would never assign a part number to the molding he made for the rear glass..when last at his place..he could not even put his hand on the mold he made...I had a few other people interested in the rubber but he never came through with for me for them..strange..it is his business to sell molded rubber...I will not call the company name here..but my dealing with him is that he has a good product..just that his commercial side is very demanding and this is more of a hobby to do auto...only way I can explain his shortcomings. As for the other companies..their product is not close enough to use...IMHO
  16. I go ice fishing here in Georgia all the time....open the freezer door..rumble around the tray..grab a few of them babies for the drink of the day..really not much to it...
  17. promotion through assmosis...I loved that office word from the previous thread
  18. if you did not smell anything smoking, the bushing are probably dried out due to the extra heat generated by the 12 volt operation..possible you may disassemble and relube for continued operation..
  19. being a 50..the ratio is stock at 3.9 and only in the hilly country was a 4.1 an optional rear gear...find it stamped in place by brushing the passenger side of the hog head or the very top boss of the hog head.. Number of gears you can fidn to swap out..most however will require removal of your old leaf mounts and reweld to your donor unit in proper position to match the spring width and also take care to match your pinion angle..if transplanting a 318 or even better the 3.9 V6 as no firewall, rad support change will be required. The Dodge Dakota is a very good swap..see previous forum thread of last week on ratio available..hood tag will denote ring gear size and ratio. 318 and early A500 or A518 will give you 4 speed OD with just a override switch to connect to lock out...check with truck, ramcharger or van for this combo...very sweet setup..I just returned from a 1400 mile trip through the mountains pulling 5000 lbs both ways...OD was great...some idiot stopped traffic at foot of Monteagle so had to start without a running go..still topped the hill at 60 mile per hour..3rd gear...
  20. it may have been the number for the last of the wood wagons..they were called wagons ..
  21. now that is where you will fit back into the more RARE realm of ownership...congrats...I really like that look and would like to have a split glass for my 51 'burb
  22. That truck sure is sharp, well done but I have NEVER been fond of the the sweptside truck...the blending of the car butt and truck cab has never worked for me..
  23. 30,000.00 this is not excessive to someone with unlimited funds..but for the average joe with the average car...anything in excess of 3000 is indeed excess...even most convertibles in excellent shape don't carry a resale this high..
  24. was that with the US Navy...they have a whole book on bonding..shipboard is a very corrosive enviroment and as such require some very aggressive bonding procedures..might I add also..over the course of 16 years with electronics in the Navy civilian side..we saw these regs change quite frequent.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use