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shane_thompson

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Everything posted by shane_thompson

  1. Yeah im trying this next time I see the truck
  2. Ok I’ll report back. However, what’s wrong with doing this for #1 cyl like I did?
  3. So then how shall I reset the oil pump? And what must I do after it’s installed properly? How do I know it IS installed properly after all that too?
  4. And I don’t have access to a hand crank, so I need to try it with a friend again
  5. I did a wet and dry test twice and the numbers came out the same. i basically went wet and dry starting on #1, then wet and dry again after charging the battery starting from #6 this time. This way I thought I can really confidently verify the numbers are right. from what I believe, I feel as battery power doesnt affect the compression numbers much, as it measures the air pressure inside the cylinder when it’s the top of it’s stroke, not how much force is applied to that stroke.
  6. The oil pump wasn’t installed willy nilly because the mechanic would know better not to do that. The block is 7 years younger than the truck. “Timing” was already verified when we: 1. #1 to TDC 2. distributor spark plugs in order of manual 3. condenser functions with bright spark 4. new spark plugs 5. manual says 2 degrees ATDC which the crank case measuring gear said around 2-4 degrees with #1 at TDC. We checked every spark plug, recharged the battery, checked all points for resistance, and even bought a new battery to be sure. I have not replaced the cables, but they do not seem corroded on the outside points. “Fuel” was verified as: 1. Manifold had a fine mist of fuel 2. vapor coming out tailpipe 4. spark plugs smelled like a gas/burning smell. the only other thing I can think of is that the battery cables need to be replaced along with the starter. But the starter runs fine. One thing I notice is the fuel pump does not feed fuel into the carb, so I have to pour fuel straight into the bowl, and it does the trick. PS: I might as well refurbish the worn parts in the engine anyways, or myself or someone else will have to just do it a few years later if something catastrophic doesnt conclude the engine.
  7. Drop in numbers means stuck valves. Similar numbers means the pistons or rings are warped/worn
  8. It’s the valves and (maybe) cylinders. Especially #4 bore. Here are the numbers with a compression test in PSI: Dry Test (psi) Cyl. 1: 60 Cyl. 2: 62 Cyl. 3: 62 Cyl. 4: 59 Cyl. 5: 90 and 90 Cyl. 6: 90 Wet Test Cyl. 1: 58 Cyl. 2: 50 Cyl. 3: 60 Cyl. 4: 35 Cyl. 5: 60 Cyl. 6: 70–60
  9. UPDATE: looks like stuck valves gentlemen. Did wet and dry tests for all cylinders. Looks like the head is coming off now to re-seat. Breaker-bar time. Coolant has to come out too.
  10. I will try this but as I test this sucker, I pull the spark plugs out and notice they all smell off. Possibly a fuel burn smell. All bark no bite maybe? Which could indicate a timing problem. Anyways the distributor manipulation is the hardest for me, so I’ll get to work on that after this compression test today, and reply the numbers to keith
  11. Wanna know the ironic thing? Your videos are what’s getting me through this relatively smoothly. Lol But anyways, compression test tomorrow, fingers crossed.
  12. i made a list at the top of everything that has been checked for the truck thus for. That needs to be read first. Here’s a list of updated work regardless: Compression - checking exact readings tomorrow Spark Timing - has been correctly timed and inspected Fuel - turns into a fine mist And i already have a service manual from 41’ I have been using. It misses out on a fee things so it isn’t perfect.
  13. How do I check the voltage? The ammeter is the only electrical gauge and it just represents the generator’s status. For wiring, it’s decent. Not new but not original. As old as a car with 40k miles. I extensively inspected the wiring issue and only noticed a mistake in two wires being on the wrong post. I want to note: the diff fluid and axles are oozing in sludge. Maybe same for the engine? Might be worth taking her apart to clean her up to use detergent oil anyways. For some historical context: It was first used at Estrella Army Airfield/Nat guard base in Paso Robles, CA. After, it became someone’s farm truck. The block says 1948 and the truck is from 1941. Then, it was donated to the flying museum at Estrella when the base was decommissioned. Last, the owners closed the museum down for another organization and we took it to Camarillo Airport, CA, decades ago where it now resides. A lot of mystery in condition.
  14. I’ve ruled out the starter having issues as we tested it in the beginning. *Corroded batt cables? Could be corroded on the inside, wouldn't hurt to buy brand new ones. *Distributor advance timing; this is where you rotate the cap down and up right? Not pulling it out of the engine correct? Right now it was almost full forward. I’m gonna check cylinder compression readings to the exact force reading tomorrow. (Has compression, not sure the quality). let me send my distributor as reference for guidance:(Pic is sideways)
  15. Cannot get truck to run after trying everything. Crank but no start. Either sludge is holding the engine back, it’s something very simple, or it’s completely broken. One thing I ask: how long can a 6V battery last? After 1 crank the truck will partially seize or crank slow/normal. Here’s a list of the updated advice for fixes: 1. Timing is set and has been correct 2. Brand new battery installed 3. Accelerator pump works 4. Fuel sits in carb bowl and flows 5. Spark plugs blue spark outside engine; gapped .025 6. Distributor as normal 6. Manifold turns fuel into vapor 7. Open choke, closed throttle, closed choke and throttle, closed choke open throttle; nothing. 8. Starter fluid? Nothing. 9. No flooding No backfire, no start, no explosion, no fire. Just cranking for eternity.
  16. 1941 Dodge 4x4. Very first of the dodge power wagon series. Most parts are all working but she still won’t fire up.
  17. UPDATE: battery is fine, a wire was negative when it was supposed to be pos. Cranks like a normal 6 volt. However, when it cranks, the engine will stop for a second frequently. Furthermore, fuel pump is not putting fuel into the carb bowl. Injected fuel into the carb directly and still no catch. Not having fun anymnore
  18. I did this as well. Two bottles of Marvel in all cylinders and changed oil. I’ll see if I can pull the valve covers and take a look. To my knowledge, a stuck valve would still create some kind of backfire through the exhaust. I’m going to check the intake and exhaust manifold for a blockage. However, oil does get pushed out the exhaust a little bit and the carb sucks, so the exhaust-end is probably good too. It’s just so odd. The starter was fine before I pushed it back into the flywheel gears, engine is free and lubricated, put fuel in the carb, air is sucked in, WAS a new battery. I just don’t understand. Timing and cables HAVE to be it. It’s a fairly simple machine. I hear that the oil pump and/or distributor cap can be inadvertently turned the wrong way, - messing up the timing. Fuel very well may be burning wayy after the compression stroke. Maybe this is why it’s sluggish to crank? (Combustion at the wrong time giving the engine and starter resistance?) I’m 22, so I don’t have a huge understanding of these old-timers
  19. Too much torque to use the propeller anyways. Spins itself when the plugs are in. I have 30W not detergent oil.. not a factor yes? Manual says that’s appropriate for CA temps
  20. It’s definitely the Battery —> Starter issue. I think the timing is at least good enough. Plus, this is the easiest sequence of fixes.
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