alberts truck o matic

If you want to use a rubber line and not just the usual by the foot line. You could head to the hydraulic shop and have them make a line up.

The spring you have may be in backwards. The spring is supose to hold the arm with the rod from the shifter tight to the arm coming out of the trasmission. My linkage is pretty floppy but it seems to work fine and that arm is only used when shifting in to reverse.

I beileve it to be 62 inches from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. The rear end is not a Chrysler 8 3/4 if it is stock.

The neapco number for the 1950 pickups is 1-5900 this is the S-55-55-2 cleavland joint. But the spicer 1310 is the same dimentions but has outside lockup on all 4 sides. The neapco number is 1-0153. We used this joint on the original driveline to hook up to a jeep rearend. Hope this helps

Well I made the trip down to the local Napa and they no longer listed the pistons seperately. They had complete cylinders which were the stepped versions and the rebuild kits which included the the rubbers and nothing more. I was put on to a place here in Washington by the mom and pop auto parts store. A place called Hagen auto parts over in Puyallup. They didn't have pistons in stock but they had the original 1 3/8 cylinders. I found a guy on Ebay with the rear two piece pistons so I picked up a few from him.

I have a 53 B4B and started work on the brake system. The rears are the typical 2 single acting cylinders per side. The fronts are the double acting but instead of being stepped 1 3/8 and 1 1/4 both sides are 1 3/8. I went to parts house here that still uses books and found the Canadian built trucks may have had this front cylinder. My big problem is that I can't seem to find the pistons for the cylinders both the fronts and the rears. Are there any places that supply these.

Well Bud just to ease your mind I had not honed them yet, just cleaned them and found no pits. I agree totaly that the brakes are one of the most important systems. I have made the purchase of a new master cylinder, plan on replacing the rubber lines and one rear hard line as the original was rotted through and the previous owner rigged a line on the outside of the frame. The rest of the lines will get cleaned and check before final assembly. This truck was last driven in the late 90's and had all new brakes put on then the shoes are virtually new and the drums are great, just all the cylinders need attention due to the brake fluid and setting.

Have not been by the local parts houses yet but plan on it. I have three sets of cylinders that are pretty good so I think I could get a set to work.

I did a search of the forum here and didnt really find an answer. I was trying to find rebuild kits for the rear wheel cylinders. These are the single acting type with two per side. I think Roberts would have them but havent called yet.

Does your 48 have corner windows? Those strips look mayby like interior parts. Sorry have not the slightest clue on the other.

Since the weight is in one direction one bearing is all that is needed. There are shims used to tighten worn parts but only one bearing in any I have seen. That may be somebodys custom construction. Or it was worn so far that another bearing was used to fill the gap.

Yes I have included the 39-47 trucks as the stake pockets are the same. The only differents if the holes punched in the side where the fenders mount on. There are no aftermarket ones available as the high cost of the die building or so I have been told.

Thanks for the photos. That looks like a fine job and turned out well. Both of the rear pockets are rusted through on my bed. Since the rears are most likley to be rusted through I had planned on finding the front pockets from a doner box but have been unable locate one. These low side boxes are hard to find up in this neck of the woods.

Just my 2 cents I would shoot for a small 220 machine. Like a Hobart 187 or a Miller 185. Have used those brands for many years with very few mishaps. These offer both shielding gas or flux core. The thing to remember if you are to use flux core wire is to switch the polarity of the machine. I would try to shoot for a 220 machine because once you have a welder you will find that there are a lot of things that could be welded and a 110 machine will not always provide sufficient results.

Well the dash looks like a 48 to 50 due to the gauge layout , the doors are 51 to 52 by the lines and the handle hardware. So I would say that it's not a true to form truck.