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desoto1939

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Posts posted by desoto1939

  1. 3 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said:

    Things that make you go "hmmm".  I put new 6v bulbs in the D24 about 15 years ago so they'd match "side-by-each" as a friend from Vermont would say.  Not because either of them quit working.  I do remember getting them from AutoZone, as no one else carried 6v bulbs (that I could find).  I don't recall having any problems with the aiming nubs (throwing another description in the mix).  I gotta remember to check on the next trip out to the shop...because now it just bugs me.  

    Dan: the newer replacement 6v 6006 bulbs will fit just fine.  But what I was referring to is if someone was trying to to a retrofit with an aftermarket conversion kit that was sold for cars that were produced prior to 1939 they would have to make modification to the mounting ring that holds the sealed beam inplace. The mounting rings were not designed to get past the modern aiming tips. On my unit I had to use a small round file to cut into the area were each tip on the lens would be located on the mounting rim so that i could get the lens to fit perfectly in the mounting rim.

     

    Hope this clears up the information.

     

    So this is why the 4030 bulbs should be used and not the 6006 bulbs that are now available at stores like Tractor supply.  Its all about how finite you want to be for a driver car. Most people do not know this detail of information but if you are having a car judged then it is a major factor and or points deduction.

     

    At last years AACA Hershey they had a 1950 Chrysler Windsor 6 cylinder GRAND NATIONAL Winner on the field and it had the 6006 sealed beams.  As we all know these were not produced until around 1955-56.  Also the correct bulb would have been the Autolite Bullseye bulb.  The car parked next to this car was a 1950 DeSoto that had the correct bulbs and was being judged for the first time in an AACA event.

     

    So what I am saying is that even if an AACA event things get past the judges. But for being a Grand National badged car i would be expecting it to have all of the correct items installed.

     

    I have found out that since no one is producing the Tar top batteries for our older cars they are now permitting the use of modern 6volt batteries. Yes things are changing because of the lack of products. So I am ok with this official change, it is minor when presenting the car for judging.

     

    Rich Hartung

  2. Yes the 4030 headlight was used from 1940-1948 as a standard 6 v sealed beam light. Also when you look at one on these light bulbs you will notice that there are no aiming tips and then in 1949-55 Mopar used the Autolite Bullseye bulb and these still did not have any aiming tips.

     

    Then around 56 MoPar used either GE or Tungsten headlights

     

    So if you try to use a conversion kit to go to sealed beams on a pre 1940 car the sealed beam 6006 6v bulb will not fit properly in the housing because these new 6006 bulbs come with the aiming tips and the original conversion kits were not manufactured  to get past the tips.  I know this because i have several kits and the round mounting trim ring can not get past the tips. I tried a 4030 bulb and the trim mounting ring goes right over the bulb.

     

    Rich Hartung

  3. 1 hour ago, Doug&Deb said:

    Good score Rich! I need to start shopping with you. You always find the good stuff.

     

    Doug: Well I guess you need to attend the Hershey swap meet with me for a couple of days. Always looking in the odd lots of parts and you never know what opportunity might come your direction.  Yes the Trippe lights were a great find and also the 6 Autolite Bullseye headlights.

     

    I worked on two of them today and was sanding the rust spots on the back of the lights and sprayed them gray.  Then took some glass paste and cleaned up the front lens on two of them.  They are now ready and backed in bubble wrap. These Autoite bulbs will be going to Hershey for resale unless some one needs them sooner.

     

    Rich Hartung

    desoto1939@aol.com

  4. The trippe Lights were made inthe Senior and also Junior product lines.  The Senior Lights were used on the bigger cars of the 1920's thru 1930's.  These were the cream of the driving lights.  When also going to a quality car show look at the big cars such as the Packard's, Lincolns and every notice that they have a large driving light right in the middle of the front bumper and that there isa rod that is connected to the light.  These are called Pilot Ray lights. These light will pivot as you make a turn into a corner or a side street so that you have light to see wre your are turning.  There was a rod that connected to the drag link and when turning the steering wheel right or left the Pilot Ray light would move in that direction.  This was the precursor to the idea that Tucker had for his third headlight in the grill, it was designed to move in the direction of the steering when turned.

     

    My Senior light are stationary lights just like fog lights but these are 8 inch lens and spread a beam to light up the roadway at night.  These lights if you look an Ebay are not cheap they range in price from $1500 to $2500  for a quality set that is ready to put on your car. If you ever go to Hershey in the Fall for the AACA swap meet and car show you will see these lights on cars.  The parts for these are expensive.  They even had a special wrench that had knurls or groves to tighten the mounting bolt that hlds the light onto the upright bracket.  This little tool is not cheap it sells for around $125-150.

     

    And to answer someone else question this is not a joke and also not a scam.  I only post information that is correct and just thought other cars owners might be interested and to let everyone know that there are still good buy's to be found, just have to be at the venders site early so as the saying goes the Early Bird gets the worm.

     

    For MoPar car owners the correct headlight bulbs, seal beams, from 1949-1956, stil using 6 volt systems, the correctbuld that was used is the Autolite Bullseye beam bulb and not the standard 6v 6006 replacement bulb. During the 1940 -56 every headlight was still manually aimers against a white wall and the car was positioned 25 feet from the wall.  In 1956 approx they came out with the BEAR headlight aiming machne and the headlight bulbs then had the three tits or gismos to aim the lights.

     

    I did a presentation at the National Desoto club several years ago with all of this information and most of the members did not even know what headlight were to be installed on their cars.  I have even found that the AACA judges and there judging manual does not even have this information and I have sent them this information but they have not changed their judging criteria.  Car from the 1940-1948, Mopar and also others would have used a headlight number 4030 and also would not have the aiming tits.

    The first picture is the Autolite Bullseys sealed beam.

    The 2nd and 3rd picture is the 4030 bulbs and note no aiming tits these bulbs were used from 1940-48 on the MoPar cars and Trucks

    Rich hartung

     

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    image.png.b1a3c5daf3265b96258afdefaf229551.png

     

    image.png.8be27a75308a11aea1fd474021699a6f.pngimage.png.c9d8d81e109cd42a0d4b10cbbf93af42.png

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning.  At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights.

     

    I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs.

     

    Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens.

     

    As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition.

     

    OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount.  I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+.

     

    He came back with a price of yes $100.  You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller.  I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes.

     

    Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent.

     

    Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color.

     

    As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each.

     

    So not a bad day of looking for parts.

     

    I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. 

     

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    t1.JPG

    t2.jpg

    t3.JPG

    t6.jpg

    t7.jpg

    • Like 6
  6. Here is some information frm my36-42 dodge master parts book on the trunk prop. Also look

     

    at the note section. See that note on D8 it also might use the same support.

     

    I have the complete 36-42 Dodge master parts book.  Do you want to purchase a copy to have for your computer.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    image.png

  7. 4 hours ago, Bob Ritter said:

    If the master cylinder is working  and no leaks why not add a return spring. I would mount it at the push rod pin. Take a look at the clutch return spring and see how it is mounted...

    Bob: according to my 1936-42 Dodge Master parts book there already is a brake pedal return spring.

    Below is the page from the catalog showing the part and part Number.

    image.png.bf0034d4157d23e4acc86fcf9d48a2a0.png

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

     

    • Like 1
  8. I have the same master cylinder in your car as in my 39 Desoto.

    Had a very similar issue. One day the brakes would work then the next day not and then could pump up the brake. then went to the floor.

     

    Decided to remove the floor pans, pulled the MC. Already had a spare rebuild kit and rebuilt the entire MC. Cleaned the two holes inthe resevoir.

     

    Bleed the MC on my bench and installed the MC back in the car and had good brakes.

     

    Next day working at my bench I looed at the pressure release valve that sits at the very front on the MC and then noticed a vey small slit in the rubber part of the valve.

    Also do not play with the piston push rod or turning it in or out.

    So this value permits the fluid to move out of the MC and also return but when there is a slit inthe rubber you get a very low pedal.

     

    Suggest that you rebuild the MC. i know it is a pain to get it out of the car but if all else fails then this is your only option.

     

    Rich hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    • Thanks 1
  9. I had taken the tires and rims off my 39 Desoto to do some checking under the car. I also have the lug bolts and are all right hand treaded. Did my checkout put the rims and tires back on the car used the t-wrench to tighten the bolts and both rear wheels.

     

    Thought they were on tight enough took the car for a ride around the block and then heard the wheel noise. stop the car in my neighborhood saw the bolts were loose. walked home got my t-wrench and tighten them up.

     

    So we all have had some issues with not tightening the lug bolts.  So now when I put the car back on the ground I retighten all the bolts for all the wheels that had been removed.  Lesson learned once but never twice for this issue again.

     

    Rich Hartung

    desoto1939@aol.com

  10. 13 hours ago, 37Dodge said:

    Thank you @desoto1939 & @Doug&Deb for the quick response!  This documentation will help me with the correct lengths since I basically have wire ends to work with and that's it :)  ( photo from above was an eBay find )

     

    Thanks Again!

     

     

     

    Another quick option is to purchase a NOS breaker Plate assembly for your IAT dizzy. This then come complete with the wires, condenser, and points already assembled.  Then all you have to do is install the new breaker plate and then rebuild the old plate with parts and then you have a spare in case something happens.

     

    I always look for BP when at swap meets, just good insurance to have spare parts for your car especially if you have switched out the original pars such as the dizzy and carbs, etc.  You can not just walk into any auto store and expect to get the part off the self, might even have to wait a few days or more.

     

    Be prepared for future tune-ups and repairs.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

  11. Below is some info on the distributor lead wires and sizes this was taken from my Echlin catalog. It tells the lead wire number and the then the picture of each wire and length. The part number in ( ) is the autolite part number on the wire picture.

     

    Rich Hartung

    desoto1939@aol.com

     

    image.png.c5296b852e2e6effb2aa83a28bc51694.png

     

    image.png.41969fad41626592a42f3e13bf996544.png

  12. 16 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

    Maybe I am not using the correct terminology here. I do not like the brake fluid eating away the paint, etc. It really does, I've spilled some before :() I suspect it does that regardless of having absorbed any water, because my spilled liquid came right from the new sealed bottle.

    Has DOT 5 been available for that long, already? What year is it, again? I must be getting old 🤣

     

    The DOT 2 can be easily mixed yourself (done that before). The common formula appears to be 50/50 castor oil and butyl alcohol. But, it is not suitable for disk brakes (too hot) and it can get "thick" in very cold weather. Last time I've been playing with some in the bottle, it was still visually maintaining its fluidity at 5F, so this is well beyond my typical Florida driving needs.

    Ivan:  I purchase a tool and there is a posting about it in the Show your tools posting. It cost me several dollars but it tests the brake fluid for moisture. Even a  bottle on DOT3,4,5 that has been opened and the lid put back on tightly will still get moisture back into the bottles. I tested some DOT3 that has been on my self and had been opened

    and i tested it and there was moisture to the point that i decided to get a brand new bottle. I then tested on my DOT5 bottle that also had been opened and resealed and this did not have any moisture according to the pen and that bottle had been opened well over a year ago.

     

    rich hartung

    desoto1939@aol.com

  13. The other day I was not able to get the idle and rpm for my 39 Desoto to a point that was maing the engine run at the proper rpm on the Carter Ball and Ball Carbs.

     

    I took the side panel off the car on the passenger side I moved the idle adjustment arm and saw that on the Throttle Shaft Dog that also control the fast idle and also works with the sisson choke has a flat spot and also had a groove inthe dog.  This piece should not have any grooves It should be perecftly smooth so that as the sisson choke is getting released the idle then settles down.

    The dog in the pictures is the small metal band that is on the left post and rotates back as the fast idle from the choke is released. These dogs get the groove because the idle set screw rides against the dog and as the idle come down the  point of the screw wares a groove in the dog.

     

    I am looking to see if anyone might have one of these in their parts bin. Will pay for the item plus shipping.

     

    So if you always getting a fast idle check this on your carb. 

     

    If anyone has questions please feel free to contact me

     

    Refer to the attached picture of the Throttle shaft Dog

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

     

    D1.JPG

    D2.JPG

  14. on my original 39 desoto I only have the plug that is shown in the first picture. I will have to also investigate to see if there is a small drain plug on the bottom of my 39 Desoto.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

  15. 34 minutes ago, Sniper said:

    Except dwell.  An automotive multimeter has that though,

    An if you look an ebay you can get a dwell meter and tach meter to adjust your engine from approx $15 and up to $100. But for most of our cars the cheaper meters are just fine.

     

    Rich hartung

  16. I was always told not to spill any brake fluid on anything that is painted because it will ruin the painted surface. If this is true then the brake fluid excect for DOT5 will remove and or stain your painted parts.

     

    This is one of the reasons I use DOT 5 because of the high humidity aspects here in Eastern PA and DOT 5 does not draw moisture into the fluid.  I am not concerned about the amt of heat that the fluid can protect but for the moisture aspect.

     

    I have been using DOT5 for over 35 years in my 39 Desoto.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    • Like 1
  17. some rear end did not have a drain plug you would take out the fill plug and then insert a suction tube and suction tool to pull out all of the rear end fluid.

     

    Some cars also had a drain plug that was on the lower left side near the bottom of the side flange.

     

    Just have to look on yours to see what you have.

     

    Rich hartung 

    • Thanks 1
  18. The radio that you have in picture two is the correct Philco radio for all 1939 Mopar cars.  I have this same model in my 1939 Desoto.

     

    The radio can be setup two ways for the antenna setup.

     

    1. roadway - the antennas are under the running boards and there are two rods under each running.  This is how my factory radio was setup.

     

    2. Skyway - the outside antenna is mount on the driver side of the cowl and the antenna is mounted on an angle to run on a line going up the window frame. Also it is a two post mounting attachment.

     

    3. There isa small cap on the bottom or top that can be prided off and there is a small wire inside that will go into the skyway or roadway hole according to which radio atenna style you are using.

     

    4. When you take off the drivers side panel for the engine you will also need to mount a brass strip that attaches to the cowl welting and then goes down approx 2-3 inches.  When the side panel is put back on then the brass strip also acts as a ground. Most people do not have the strip and also you willneed to get a radio condenser to mount on the generator to remove the static from the engine

     

    Contact me i have some literature on this radio and the mounting and tuning.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    H: 610-630-9188

  19. Go to your local walmart store and get the 80-90 weight rearend oil in a squeese bottle. This is what you need it is a gl5 oil for hypoid gears and is extreme pressure oil.

     

    I run this in my 39 Desoto.

     

    Rich Hartung

  20. Mike: since you put on new cylinder and master cylinder, the big question is did the car originally have Silicone Dot 5 did you just put DOT5 into the master cylinder after building with new parts.

     

    If the car had the old Dot 3,4 or even 5.1 you CAN NOT mix Dot 5 with any of the other fluids. You wud have to flush the entire system with denatured alcohol and then rebuild all the rubber hoses and rubber parts in the Master and each wheel cylinder.

     

    So that is my first question.

     

    I have a 39 Desoto and have used Dot 5 for over 30+ years.  Do not shake the bottle let it sit to make sur no bubble.  I fill my master cylinder with a small mouth syringe a little at a time.

     

    You have the same MC as I do under the floor board. Swith the fill nut so the lid and the nut is at the front of the MC. Suck up dot 5 and slowly fill the MC until it is full.

    As todd also stated what are the lining conditions. If the shoes are not indidudally set to the proper specs you will get a soft pedal. Contact me at

     

    Also look at my recent post on the comparison of Dot 3, Dot4, Dot 5 and Dot5.1 brake fluid it is still available to view and is a current posting,

    Desoto1939@aol.com. i will explain in more detail

     

    Rich Hartung

  21. On 2/27/2024 at 9:22 PM, Crisjr14 said:

    Thanks Rich so I did switch it back to positive ground and also switched the wires on the FP I alligatored it the ign switch real quick to see if she would start and also getting gas which she is now and FP is working fine but as you stated about the wire feeding the FP how or where would wire it to be setup correctly please and thank you all again for your help greatly appreciated 

    Chris: I have a wire running from the full turn onside of the ign switch running over to a toggle switch which is attached to the bottom of the dash.  Look around the bottom of the dash and you might find a location or a hole to mount the toggle switch through. Then the other wire will run to the electric FP>. remember that you are now Positive ground so the positive wire on the FP now becomes the ground wire and now your electric power wire coming from your toggle switch will connect to the negative wire on the FP. 

  22. 17 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said:

    I use DOT5 brake fluid in the D24.  I would call the brake feel "mushy", but I have good braking action.

    Dan I have to agree with you posting about the mushy pedal. I also read that Dot 5 is a softer brake pedal feeling and takes some getting use to this type of pedal. I have a good pedal in my 39 Desoto also.

     

    Rich Hartung

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