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50BusiCoupe

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Everything posted by 50BusiCoupe

  1. At this point and since this is not a highly collectible car I will more than likely assemble the engine I’ve already bought that moves freely and already machined and ready to be put back together. I’ll move all my accessories over to the replacement. I may then work on the valves and tinker. My goal is to hopefully having to running and be able to move under its own power by the fall.
  2. The pistons all move freely the motor turns pretty easy until they cam tries to lift the stuck valves. I only tried to turn the motor by rotating the cooling fan with my hands. Not if a previous owner tried with tools I can see something being bent.
  3. What would I be looking for in respect to the rods? IMO I’d have an easier time pulling the engine to do a tear down and inspection. And to compare the engine I bought to replace this one if it was too far gone. An engine on a stand it much easier for me to deal with.
  4. Follow up question with the valves stuck down is there room to back off the adjusters and remove whatever those parts are called that the valves ride on? That would allow the cam and crank to rotate at that point.
  5. Well the verdict is in!! all pistons move up and down cylinders do not looks as bad as I expected. Valves well the valves are screwed. 4 move freely the rest rusted right down to the block ?. I have a truck engine that I bought that is in decent shape but in parts was a military ambulance motor from what the guy has said. The very odd distributor cab and wires confirm part of the story. Guess I’m building the truck engine to swap in. I still need to figure out how to rotate the engine at some point unless there is sufficient access to remove bell housing and FD unit after engine removal with out it rotating freely.
  6. I’m going to try head removal tonight. the problem with the wedge system is without being able to rotate the motor I cannot get to three equal points to support the FD/clutch. Another reason to try to get the engine to rotate at least 180 degrees. If I can figure out how to shrink the size of my pictures I’ll post cylinder pics tonight if I can get the head removed before I’m too tired lol.
  7. Pulled the little cover and the maybe 2” diameter metal plug looks like the fluid drive is still there. I guess the ultimate goal is to get to the nuts for the fluid drive to be able to pull the engine. Or can the engine be pulled with the bell housing and FD attached?
  8. That is the next step I believe as well I just got the car in Oct and the motor always turned the same so I’m not sure that it is locked up but the head coming off is the next logical step when we get consistent 50 degree weather in the day. I have another head gasket and an entire spare motor in pieces that I will use if needed or combine the two if needed to make a good engine. I would like to keep the original block if not destroyed. What is revealed when the head comes off will tell quite a bit.
  9. Good idea I have no carpet but I can definitely pull the cover and look.
  10. Hello all I’ve been trying to get my ‘50 business coupe motor to rotate. I can go about 30 degrees at the crank than it just stops. I pulled the distributor cap and the rotor moves with the crank. It sounds as if I’m turning the transmission gears. The fender states this is a fluid drive car. Should I not be able to rotated the motor with the trans in nuetral? The left rear wheel is also locked solid. I imagine the clutch is stuck but my understanding was the guild drive should let the motor rotate when stopped. Any ideas? My next thought is to pull the driveshaft and maybe check the emergency brake to see if I can get any more rotation.
  11. So newbie question my ‘50 dodge has never had an oil filter. Is there still a bypass valve in the block?
  12. This makes me nervous knowing I’m pulling mine this coming spring to drop in a rebuilt motor.
  13. The engine is disassembled looks as if the cylinders have been honed or bored as there is no ridge at the top at all. I don’t have the intake or exhaust manifolds so that would be swapped over from my engine. Has new rings, bearings in boxes I have to measure everything and check figment yet. On the point of reselling. I’m sure someone doing a good resto probably would like to have the truck numbered block still painted in green. I want to get my engine out and measured. And have at least one running before decide. I figured the cam and crank is at the minimum worth what I paid if that’s all I use. But ideally it would be nice to drop a complete engine in and fire it up.
  14. Ok I tried a little searching and seems it should work. So here is the details. I bought a 1950 dodge wayfarer business coupe. Motor was stuck for some oil down the cylinders now rotates about 15-20 degrees. I found an engine near me and bought it. Both have the 23” head and 8 bolt crank. Turns out the engine I bought is out of a military ambulance. Distributor cap is all different. Can I use the oil pump and distributor plus oil pan from my car engine? Or are there some unforseen issues that I don’t know about?
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