Marcel Backs

yeah they do it all even metal! Very good to know. thanks again man.

I wonder if they can print clear plastic parts. They did a great job on the switch cover and I can see why you want to use it with that woodgrain pattern. I had to get the windshield wiper pivot covers for my D14 machined (lucky I had one to use as a pattern & they are R/L interchangeable) because they are virtually impossible to find for the electric wiper equipped models. Technology ties up a loose end in parts acquisition. Thanks for the post! M

Have the same type on the back of my 39 Master 85. Sniper got it!

does your turn signal switch have a manufacturer name an model number?

Hi Travis & welcome to the site. Glad to see you tackling the wiring. When I got my harness for my D14, RIWW included wiring charts which are quite detailed. If these were not included, I would give them a shout. all the best, M

If it's original wiring, check for past splices into the harness under the dash and at each of the tail lights. Black electrical tape "junctions" if any exist should be checked for faults. If you have a multimeter, make sure live side of any of your light circuits read high impedance to a known good ground with battery disconnected (always do impedance tests on de energized circuits). Check to make sure that all light socket bodies read zero ohms to ground. Check wiring thoroughly for insulation breakdown. Make sure that any previously joined wires are either soldered or crimped and properly isolated. All the Best, M

Gooday from up north! Welcome to the retired world where every day is a saturday. This site will fulfill your tinkering needs since retirement induces a lot of tinkering. all the best M

hi & welcome! Hope the Race of Gentlemen will come back to NJ. That was an epic event! I really like that New Yorker.

what shape are the tank straps in? I had mine re done in stainless having re used original fasteners which were riveted to new straps at local metal fab shop. Cost me 40 Canuk Bucks for extra safety margin. Rubber as mentioned will make good isolators. I would cut the tube rubber in strips a little wider than the strap because you may need more than one layer to make up gaps between tank and straps to ensure secure mounting. Ensure no metal to metal contact taking trunk floor to upper portion of tank into consideration as well. All the Best! M

Swapping in an 8 in will involve fabrication in all aspects of the build and many added $$$$$. As far as suspension goes, I would look into direct replacement gas shocks and radial tires which will greatly improve your ride and handling at a reasonable price. Refreshing the front suspension will give you a surprisingly good ride with all required parts readily available. Steering, brakes and wiring should be in the top three. Brakes would be an area where original equipment can be altered/ updated for a better safety margin in the build. I would stick with the flathead and get a reputable rebuilder to assess it since it is the key ingredient in driving this old iron ( good choice of hop up parts make them even more spectacular). l am doing a complete body off restoration which is advancing well and in finishing stages.Time spent on it becomes a blur! (good thing I'm retired and this has been my hobby for decades). In my opinion these old Chrysler Corp. cars were a superior build back then and are still enjoyable with much of their original engineering intact. All in all it boils down to individual preferences combined with budget and in my opinin there aint anything wrong with any of em! All the Best & Much Success!

look into ppg concept. very happy to have used it. finish is very true to the period. not overly glossy but has serious depth. full urethane will not shrink over time. Frank's suggestion of imron is also an excellent choice due to legendary durability and period accurate appearance. paint is a subject well researched before application.

I'm working on a D14 coupe. All kinds of interesting mopars from all over here with a great bunch of enthusiasts! welcome!

it is a standard rubber plug. measure hole diameter and match it up at auto supply stoe.

Looks like you flowed that paint well and customer was happy!

hooks face out towards front of car. They hook into slots in cross brace. Make sure you have good insulators between tank an straps. Hope this helps M

It's all water based paint up here and the finish as well as drying leaves a lot to be desired. I purchased the paint that the painter recommended in upper NY state. He used "Concept" single stage black on the body with amazing results.The extra expense for this paint is well worth it compared to water based base/clear option.

Just curious Sniper, how much HP can be squeezed out of a flathead? By reading several rebuild threads, they seem to be a lot of fun to play with! BTW thanks for passing on your knowledge to us in the hobby and more importantly your son. M

hi welcome to the site. many helpful folks and lots of common interests here!

outstanding engineering man! what a way to improve oiling! all the best from slightly NORTH of ya M

If your impedance readings are good mock up the fuel gauge circuit by running 2-jumpers from 1 and 2 terminal on the back. If the movement on the gauge reacts as before and does not reflect the float position then the gauge needs to be replaced or sent out for cleaning of the points and re calibration. Check out wiring diagram to mock it up properly. Motors has a good procedure. hope this helps with this known fussy circuit. M PS it takes about a minute for gauge circuit warm up and read properly after energizing it.

Mine did the same and was attributed to the sender. When I checked the old one with my multimeter, I could not get a stable resistance. The new one gives solid readings on each of the. terminals (1 & 2) as you vary the float arm position. Readings for ohms are taken terminal 1 to case and terminal 2 to case while varying float arm from full to empty position. A new float for a 40 D14 yielded the following readings: terminal 1 to case float at full pos. reads 40 ohms terminal 1 to case float at empty pos. reads about 4 ohms terminal 2 to case float at full pos. reads about 4 ohms terminal 2 to case float at empty pos. reads about 40 ohms The case in the circuit is ground. Your fuel level gauge is a heated filament movement with needle action dependant on impedance present at its respective terminals 1 & 2. These Auto Lite gauges can also be troublesome due to their complex operation and construction compared to the AC moving coil movement which is a much more simple set up. If you want to read up more on this refer to Motor's Auto Repair Manual which describes the various fuel gauge types for the period. Good news is that there are still NOS ones available. Hope this helps! M

Is it a 2 wire sender and is it an old or new one Conn? BTW another spectacular dash in progress!

14 awg automotive wire will work well since this is a low current circuit.

Your oil pan will also have a carbon accumulation in the bottom. My 218 was also a rich runner before rebuild and rebuilder showed me lots of carbony sludge that came out of the pan. He told me motor was running rich for a long time before I bought the car.

Andy Bernbaum sells the correct hose for your car. With tank out, it's a good time to have the inside treated with sealer. You can send it out or buy a kit and do it yourself at a reasonable price. This will ensure clean fuel to your motor for years to come and will prevent fuel tank removal in the future. Also make sure you have proper tank strap insulators when re installing the tank. You can get this as well as the sealer kit from street rod headquarters in Vancover Washington. I think they even carry new tanks. Hope this helps and all the best! M PS it's also a good time to check condition of sender wire and see if sending unit gives correct feedback to your guage once you have removed sender which will no doubt need a gasket.