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Slickster

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Everything posted by Slickster

  1. Slickster
    3ft breaker bar and a piece of pipe got it done....ALOT of torque required, it did bottom out, all back together....road test tomorrow.....thanks
  2. Slickster
    Wish me luck, going with large breaker bar...
  3. Slickster
    Parts provider says crank them in there, it will cut the threads as it goes.....sound right?
  4. Slickster
    Replacing lower and upper outer control arm hushings and pins, came apart easily, can't get new bushings to thread into spindle....they twist about a full turn and then get really tight....seems like they are straight....get bigger breaker bar? Impact wrench? threads are funky looking but the new ones look like the old ones, I am able to twist the old one in with minimal effort...suggestions? Thanks
  5. Slickster
    Thanks, looked in thread link, didn't see camber getter....maybe google knows...
  6. Slickster
    That actually sounds high for hot idle oil pressure....lots of older engines, gas and diesel have 7-10 psi at hot idle, it's all about volume, not pressure btw, no worries in your case....
  7. Slickster
    48 P15, replacing control arm bushings, saw a magnetic camber tool that sticks to brake rotor and gives camber angle, how would I use that on drums? Won't stick to dust cup boss, axle in the way, any ideas? Thanks
  8. Slickster
    With the key on, if you open the points, a spark should jump out of the center distributor wire, if the points are open, grounding the arm should also produce a spark, might help figure things out, nice car btw
  9. Slickster
    I had the lower control arm loose to remove the steering box, huge amount of play in the lower outer, you can feel it shift while driving, not sure I want to go down this rabbit hole....
  10. Slickster
    You can feel the left front wheel shift and the car jogs a bit left or right....scary....gross amount of play, lower outer,upper outer has some play also, can't detect play in the others...
  11. Slickster
    The lower outer and upper outer need to be replaced, looks like no special tools needed for outer bushings?....I have manual btw. Thanks
  12. Slickster
    While rebuilding the steerimg box, 48 P15, I discovered that the left front lower control arm bushing has alot of play....alot...(been chasing death wobble), the upper has slight play, tie rod ends are ok, RF suspension is good, left front wheel will jump off the pavement at inopportune times....can these bushings be replaced with the arms on the car? Are they pressed in? What are some of the issues I might run into? Car is undriveable at this point, also, feel like I am digging a hole at times with expense of this project....thanks
  13. Slickster
    Ha ha ha....got it, you are right about it being counter intuitive....thanks!
  14. Slickster
    It does, thanks....I'll try that tomorrow....
  15. Slickster
    Was there supposed to be a pic in your reply? Just an X shows up....the spring goes below the brass 3 spoke thing? How does it give the horn ring it's spring effect?..
  16. Slickster
    48 p15 custom deluxe, trying to remount horn ring, button....where does the spring go?, it has the 3 spoke horn ring, pics not same in manual, I stared at it and tried to assemble every way I can think of....stumped...thanks
  17. Slickster
    Made gasket and used thin coat of rtv....done...
  18. Slickster
    There are only so many "old" " classic" cars out there...the chevy and ford prices have been jacked up, now it's mopars turn? Might put my p15 out there and test the waters....still sorting it out
  19. Slickster
    Compression ratio really affects cranking requirements....
  20. Slickster
    Great stuff...thanks, I'll remove shaft, lube it up, if it doesn't cure the vibration, upgrade makes the most sense....crazy how quickly the parts bill can add up....I figure I could have 5-8 thou more in this thing than it is worth when I'm done
  21. Slickster
    Saw repair kit for $263...ouch....new shaft with new style u joints $450...
  22. Slickster
    48 P15, high frequency vibration in your seat at higher speeds, has the old non typical u-joint style, repairable? Better to get new shaft built? What have you all done to make it smooth? Thanks!
  23. Slickster
    Got it! Started from scratch, drove car, brake pedal got firmer and firmer, brake lights stayed on, put car up on 4 jackstands, all 4 wheels really dragging, sucked juice from master cylinder, took a 1/32 drill bit and stuck it into tiny drain back hole, fluid shot up about a foot! All wheels free, I remember blowing out the two holes while rebuilding the master cylinder, but I probably just jammed more crap into it...when I let car back down, it just about rolled out of the barn by itself...thanks to all the assist....now to deal with loose steering and moderate death wobble....
  24. Slickster
    I think there is only one spring on the rear brakes...
  25. Slickster
    Thanks, wasn't sure which one was the correct one......this project has certainly had it's share of surprises....
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