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capt den

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Everything posted by capt den

  1. i had the booster rebuilt for my 54 windsor. have not installed it yet.i have to assume the vacuum produced by the 265 in my car will be enough. i had this system on a 53 imperial but that car had the hemi engine. i do know that if the diaphragm in the booster fails then the vacuum side in the booster will suck all the brake fluid out of the master cylinder leaving you with no brakes. it will happen fast when it does. not very bright engineering. however, on the plus side they work real nice and take the work out of braking like they should. you also need a master cylinder that has an extra fitting on top of it to connect to the booster to drain any leakage back to the master so you do not run low on brake fluid. capt den
  2. if this car was "original" then what we see in the picture would not look so nice and clean. i will try to remember to look in the canadian parts book i have, but not sure if it covers 1947. tomorrow. capt den
  3. the motor may not be turning at full speed due to age or othe rissues. i got mine rebuilt and it made a difference. capt den
  4. original rims will work fine. i have only had one ever leak at the rivets in many years. capt den
  5. i got a new one on ebay, it is currently in the car and not leaking
  6. yes, plug is a better term. about 1 inch or so. will try to match up something at the store. thanks
  7. the cap on my 54 chrysler master looks bigger than the one sniper shows. WIFE is always available. just thought i would like to try the one person way. perhaps i can get a PVC pipe to fit to make a cap for a bleeder. thanks
  8. the tutorial on this website about doing brakes mentions a KD 2910 one man brake bleeder. could not find this one online.the ones i saw do not seem to have a cap that will fit over our master cylinders. the system seems to eliminate sucking air back in while bleeding. also prevents the master from getting empty while bleeding, which i think happened when i just recently bled mine. i bled them alot, but they still have air in the line. i think maybe i need to bleed the rears also, but i did not work on them. does anyone know which one man bleeder will work with our masters? capt den
  9. is it possible to swap the 1956 centerbrake system on to the earlier mopars? seems like that would eliminate the need for all these crazy adjustments and the brakes should work fine. capt den
  10. i am putting the shoes on today and will set them as keith suggested. i will use the tool to get them concentric.then after some driving i will do the minors again. the problem i ran into yesterday was with the pins on the wheel cylinders. i have extras laying around so i cleaned some up but hey turned out to be the wrong ones even though they came from a previous brake job. i have read on here abot how people do their brakes and then cannot get the drum to fit. seems like 90 % of the time it was the wrong pins. i will now use the exact ones that were on the car. i can see the difference once i compared them to the ones that came with the new wheel cylinders. capt den
  11. i remember doing brakes on a 51 windsor in 2001, my first collector car. i had the spring tool but like many of you i found it did not work well at all. i thought i still had it, but it is nowhere to be found today. vice grips to the rescue. i am still unsure how to get the most benefit from the adjusting tool i bought from keith. i saw his video on line, but it is very sketchy on using the tool.i think he has a better video but i do not know where to find it.perhaps he reads this and can point me in the right direction. the weak point on these brakes is if they do not touch a large portion of the drum then they are weak, like mine were. i do not have access to the miller tool. captden
  12. i have a come-along as a last resort. i once used it to pull a spring on my riding mower that was difficult to get to to pull it where it needed to go. hooked one end to a tree and the other to the spring.a bit clumsy, but did the job. we need to get creative at times. capt den
  13. thanks for the tips. i am currently using the vice grip method. my age and loss of strength have made that very difficult. used to be very easy. getting them on is easier using a screwdriver. next brake job i will get the proper tool. i hope i get a next one. i have yet to look at the rear brakes, so that could be next. captden
  14. doing the brakes on a 54 chrysler. i do not have the return spring removal tool. just wondering what easy way you have for removing them. capt den
  15. my fender skirts from fender skirt depot just arrived this week. seem to be well made,but need some adjustments. i will be fitting them better soon and painting them. took about 6 weeks for delivery, but that will vary depending on how busy he is. ralph is the man i dealt with and he is easy to talk to and ask questions. mine are for a 54 chrysler and they are overlays. 925 420 1296. capt den
  16. did not look at the cowl vent. not sure how easy that comes off. will look tomorrow.
  17. i looked for something to remove but found nothing small like the gas flap. i will look again. capt den
  18. lost my brakes once due to a rusted line that opened up when i stepped on the brake pedal. the"parking" brake did stop the car, but i was only doing about 40 mph. i was only about 4 miles from home in a rural area, so the park brake got me home. i would not to rely on it for much more than that. capt den
  19. i just bought fender skirts for my 54 windsor. they are fiberglass. i want to paint them to match the car. the original paint is Duco and is canary yellow.do any paint stores match the original color to the Duco codes, or do i just bring the Duco color chart to a home depot and have it matched up as close as they can? i realize the original paint on the car is faded,but so is the paint code chart i have. close will be good enough. i think the paint should be enamel, but not sure the best way to paint them. maybe keep it simple and just get a spray can that looks close and be done with it. my paint knowledge is almost none. anyway, thanks for any advice. capt den
  20. there are salvage yards that have alot of old mopars. try browns in texas, fair prices but this could be a fairly costly part. i bought a rear drum about 10 years ago for a 54 windsor and it was $150.prices are up now. their # is 940 393 2469 . capt den
  21. there are many junkyards t5hat have alot of old mopars. not sure what they would charge for a drum, but call to find out. you will still have to pay shipping and maybe turning, so the 450 for a new one may not be out of line.try browns in texas, 940 393 2469. t5here are many more. capt den
  22. you are braver than me. i want to do mine but afraid it may be beyond my capability. have no problem now, just a job i would love to master. i have the factory manual but no seal drivers. not sure if i could shim it properly. anyway, i need to do the front brakes first. them i can do, and i now have the tool from keith to get them adjusted properly. if i had to do the rear seals i would figure it out. capt den
  23. not too many things in life are trustworthy. those jackstands are. i remember using ones that my grandfather made out of logs about 8 to 10 inches in diameter with little legs on them so they stood straight. guess i am lucky to be alive today. i used to use cement blocks until i found out they are not as strong as i thought. now i use the real things and i use backups similiar to sam's. i don't even trust lifts, but wish i had one. capt den
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