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1941luxuryliner

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Everything posted by 1941luxuryliner

  1. It is more of a burning smell of something rubbing with resistance- it sounds strange but it almost smells similar to how a clutch would smell if it was burning. It began smoking on the first drive home from the shop last week, it sounded totally normal the whole time (3.5 miles, as well as all of the short runs the engine did during the last 11 months) up until the last few blocks before my house, where it began audibly screching/ whining. I pulled home and popped the hood to find the generator smoking. That was before I added oil, so it is not the oil burning off. Again, that was last week, so I was still running with the battery installed backwards (which I corrected today.) As for the smell of the smoke itself, it does not have an "electrical fire" burning smell like a wire burning, and all the wires are cool to the touch, but the generator quickly gets very hot. The smoke comes from the generator itself, out of both ends, after roughly 45 seconds to 1 minute of running.
  2. Wow, thank you so much everyone for the responses! I have a few updates, as well as things to clear up that I may have been unclear about. My exterior lighting does work now, initially they did not. The headlight fuse was good and the dimmer siwtch worked. So I replaced the headlight switch with a NOS unit. That also did not fix it, and I had the wires correct and the ground clean. So I ended up tapping into the hot wire from the ignition switch (as the hot wire for the headlights looked good, but just wasn't getting any power for some reason) and they have been functioning ever since. That was about 6 months ago. Fast forward to today, where I am trying to solve the 6v/ smoking generator issue that came up on its first drive last week. I went and checked the battery cables as instructed, and it turns out that I DID actually have it hooked up backwards! The guy who sold me this car hooked up the battery with the black cable to the negative battery terminal and the red to the positive terminal, so I (foolishly) followed in the same direction. However, the red cable goes to the starter and the black goes to the engine block ground. So seeing as it is positive ground, they should have been reversed. I reversed the cables, then attempted to jump the ARM and BATT terminals before starting, and I believe I did it correctly though I could be wrong. After removing the voltage regulator cover, I held a piece of wire to the ARM terminal and brushed it over the the BATT terminal on the regulator, and got the expected spark. I started the engine, and now the amp guage works as expected! Previously, it was backwards. If I pressed the horn or brake lights, the amp meter would raise, and it would drop as the engine was revving and it was charging. Now, after today, it reads as it should, going down when an electrical load is applied and also raising while revving. So I believe I am headed in the right direction, after reversing the cables and ensuring the positive terminal is grounded, the amp meter now reads correctly. I only have one final problem. The generator still has a nasty whine to it, even after oiling the port on the back side too. After about 15 seconds of running, it became hot to the touch and began screeching again. About 45 seconds after that, it began smoking out of both ends. That's when I shut the engine off. I'm thinking the generator is toast, I dont know if it was between me and the previous owner running it with the cables on backwards, or if it was from the lack of oil in the generator, but either way it is still smoking and still screeching after a few moments of running. Although for some reason, the amp guage still raised when I revved it, even while smoking and screeching. So I assume it is still charging, but possibly a bad bearing? Either way it does not seem like a good sign, perhaps it is time for a rebuild? I just want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction and all seems well before I go rebuilding the generator. I took a video clip but cannot post it in here due to the size. Thanks again for all the help and especially the quick responses. I am curious to hear your suggestions and feedback
  3. Hello everyone. I am new to this forum, and I am the owner of a 1941 dodge D19 luxury liner sedan. I purchased this car last July, and, while it moved under it's own power, it was far from roadworthy. I have since been working on making it safe (and daily driveable, as crazy as it sounds) for the last 11 months. I have opted to tackle the project of bringing her back to life, but it had been a little bit of a challenge for me... this car is way before my time (57 years befor I was born!) and therefore I have a few questions that may seem like basic knowledge, but confuses the heck out of me! However, she made her first voyage yesterday, a 15 minute drive from the shop to my house. Now that I am seriously looking at the final phases of getting her roadworthy again, something crossed my mind. As far as I know, these dodges were 6v positive ground. This appears to be an all original system, so I am going to assume it is still positive ground and not a 6v negative ground system. When I purchased the car, it moved and drove (with a cracked radiator) but had no headlights/tail lights, dash lights, horn or fuel guage. The owner had a 6v battery in it. I have since rewired and replaced all the exterior lights, and put a new 6v battery in it. When I replaced the battery, I installed it the exact same way as the last owner, with the negative cable on the negative terminal and positive on positive. I then replaced the OEM headlight switch with another OEM one, but could not get the headlights to work no matter how many grounds I cleaned or how many times I double checked the wiring. I ended up tapping into the ignition switch and they work like a charm, the switch is functional with the car running but if i turn the ignition off, he headlights will turn off as well. But now I am second guessing it after realizing my positive ground system, could the switch initially being non-functional be related to my battery being hooked up as neg ground? The horn has actually worked only one time in 11 months, but every other time all I get when I press the switch is a metallic "thunk" noise like the relay, but no horns. Now the big reason I am questioning this is, my amp meter appears to read backwards. When I start the car and rev it, the amp meter will go down. When I press the horn, even though it doesn't work, and the relay clicks the amp meter goes up. Before I drove it back to the house, I tested the voltage and it was getting 7 volts...from a generator at idle? I made the drive successfully, but about two blocks from my house the generator began whining, and when I popped the hood I noticed smoke coming out of it. I then realized that the generator had oil caps (DUH!) And I filled it with about 6 drops of oil. I only saw one fill on the top as far as I know. Fast forward to today, I start it for the first time after dropping oil in it, and it makes the same squeal for about 10 seconds before quieting down completely again. Although I did not run it for more than about a minute. I will check the voltage again tomorrow. So, now after thinking about the positive ground stuff (especially the backwards amp meter) I am totally confused about several things. Could the electronics not have been working because the battery was installed neg cable to neg terminal? If everything seems to work now, besides fuel guage and horn, do I even touch it? Is the fuel guage not working because of another component or the wiring issue? Is that why the generator began to smoke and squeal, or is it because it was out of oil? And finally...is it really as simple as draining the battery, recharging with the positive lead from the charger on the negative terminal, and then reinstalling the battery with the pos cable on neg terminal? Or do I have to switch wires on the generator too? I am fairly nervous now, thank you in advance for all your help.
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