PareosWC

At the same time I wrote here, the builder of the generator wrote back that since its internally regulated, no need for an external regulator- thanks, Nonstop! However, I do need an 8v battery with that setup.

Gents- are you familiar with the Gener-Nator? https://www.gener-nator.com/. I'm between a rock and a hard place as my Father in Law had it re-wired for 8v, positive ground, and what a pain it is to keep only (1) of my old vehicles at 8 volts! Now, the builder of this generator can rewire it for $200 plus shipping there and back, but the original cost was already $1000, so we've already passed ridiculous, lol. I guess what I'm really needing is to find either an 8v regulator, or alter a 6v regulator for 8v output. That can't be good for a regulator? Or, maybe just bite the bullet and send it back for 6v, negative ground. Any opinions?

Ain't nothing wrong with introducing a little water in your cylinders. The steam clean will do your old vehicle some good.

These battery discussions are always so intriguing to me. We all love free enterprise and capitalism, but manufacturing labels have now become so confusing for both the ignorant and well-informed. My Uncle (Harley rider) was giving me a hard time about my 70 Triumph T100r, and talking about how he supports only American! However, his boots, wallet, shirt, and even some parts are all Chinese... I have no idea where my NAPA 6v industrial came from- but its going on (7) years. Stays on a tender, fires up a Dodge about a dozen times a year, is starting to swell and leak at the caps, but still keeps going...

My 6v Dodge WC doesn't have an accelerator pump in its original carb. So, after weeks of frustration, I figured out that the truck is no different than my Stihl saw. Prime fuel with fuel pump lever. Pull choke knob all the way out. Attempt. It will attempt to fire up then, but will not (just like a cold chainsaw). I then push the choke in to half, and pull throttle back to 1/4. She will fire up everytime...

Thanks, gents! I will look at it in more detail today.

As a precursor, this is a 6v POS ground set up. The yellow wire is a jumper from the coil POS to BATT. Regardless, I pulled the starter and bench tested it along with/without the solenoid. With 6v applied with solenoid attached, I receive zero output from the bendix- whether I engage the starter lever or not However, with the solenoid removed, and a jumper cable attached directly to the starter nut, the bendix spins intermittently. Out of 10 attempts to place the ground against the cast nose cone, the bendix would rotate 30% of the time. All internals are extremely sticky and gummed up.

Dodge 230 6v flathead idled on its own back in 2015, temporary starter circuit remained intact until now. Fast-forward to today, placed a fresh 6v battery in the truck, and when I engage the foot starter, I get nothing- no clicks, whirrs, smoke, etc... Truck and motor moves freely in neutral, key switch is bypassed. The components in 2015 were new- 6v coil, 6v battery, rotor, cap, cables, etc., so my troubleshooting may focus on the coil and starter? Before I pull the starter and bench test, is there something I'm forgetting? If the truck moves easily in neutral, that should mean that the clutch is not stuck, correct? http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showfull.php?photo=294038

Sticking valve! That's a first for me.. On a flathead, how does one go about lubing the sticking/stuck valve without head removal? The truck will idle, so is it as easy as just removing the valve covers and spraying some engine oil on the moving parts?

Bypassed the fuel tank, and with fresh gas, I'm still having a heck of a time. It will idle (horribly) for a few minutes on its own, but then it dies. Two observations- no changes have been made since it was running last, and the mixture screw has hardly any affect on the idle. It starts quickly everytime, but then just idles erratically. I can troubleshoot a vehicle that I know nothing about, but between fuel and ignition, what just 'gives up the ghost' on a garage-kept vehicle that ran well only a few months ago?? Next item is to replace the carb with a known-working one, and to replace the cap- I noticed a nail head size chip on the underside where the coil wire enters?

Outfxd, I would 'think' that if the fuel was suspect, would it start up every time? I was thinking condenser, but points make sense as well...

I'm sometimes the one offering troubleshooting advice, now I find that I'm the one in need of assistance. My issue surrounds the fact that I leave my 43 Dodge 230 in an insulated shop for up to 3 months at a time, but keep it on a battery tender when gone. The truck ran great without a hiccup when last parked. With a full battery, AL 306 plugs, and no choke, the truck will fire up, but barely idles, idles rough, stalls, backfires through carb, and black smoke from the exhaust. Since this (sometimes) indicates a stuck float, I removed the carb top, needle seat, float- all looked good with no garbage in the orifices? The only issue that I can visually see is that the carb does now weep/drip fuel at the inlet. None of this occurred 3 months ago, so is it possible that the fuel is bad? It smells fresh and without varnish, and no floaties. I did put one small bottle of fuel stabilizer before I departed. Starts every time, but immediately coughs, stumbles, misfires, and rods are a' knockin'.. I will hook up an external fuel tank to bypass the pump, lines, and tank, but this is crazy...

Ok- great call and great information. Although the vehicle runs well, I felt that the idle would not want to go below 900rpm, as it was just loping like an old HD Shovelhead.

Hey greybeards! I'm attempting to be a student of proper sequence troubleshooting, but in doing so, I've confused myself. I like to use a good vacuum gauge, dwell meter, and tach when tweaking my 40's Dodge and Jeeps. If you have a solid-starting and running ol' flathead, what is the step-by-step method for ensuring that air, idle, spark, mixture, and timing are as solid as possible? Here's my example: 1. Get vehicle static timed first to ensure at least she cranks up and idles. 2. Set mixture and points gap for basic recommendation from manual. 3. Once warm, adjust distributor clockwise/counter clockwise to ensure dwell is perfect. 4. Adjust idle to match around 650rpm (for flathead 6) 5. Adjust mixture screw to vacuum gauge setting between 17 or whatever is highest vacuum reading. 6. If idle creeps up with adjustment, set idle at a lower recommended RPM, and go back to getting the highest vacuum reading. Does this sound like a decent procedure? The most important item for me is that correct fuel/air mixture. I reckon it's because the motor is loose, it always smells a bit rich, although no smoke ever shows...

Dodge 230- I can smell fuel in both my crankcase breather, and the dipstick, but my oil level does not seem to be rising. I understand that a faulty fuel pump can allow fuel to seep into the pan, but I believe my issue only started a week ago when the Dodge wouldn't start. I replaced the condenser, and all is well, but that's not my question. If you turn the motor over and over, etc. without fire, are you not simply dumping raw fuel into the motor just as easily as a faulty fuel pump? I attempted about a dozen false starts before I found the condenser issue. I'm attempting to see why that fuel smell is there? And does a fuel smell automatically mean to dump it and do a fresh oil change? -OB

Good morning! Hot idle was the same as cold idle. Just for knowledge, I swapped out a spring that I have from a WW2 Dodge block (seems tighter), and the pressure at cold idle shot up to near 60psi. I may drive it today and see what the cold idle vs. cruise vs. hot idle will be with that spring. Either way, it sounds as if she is doing fine..

Gents- I have a Dodge 230 of unknown mileage that runs and idles well, but an observation while using my dwell, tach, and vacuum gauges. My oil pressure at cold start-up is 22lbs. However, my oil pressure when hot and running at 40mph is 24lbs. My idle is set a bit high at 750rpm, but my throttle response and gauges all hold steady at 18mmhg on vacuum. All-in-all, I'm happy! Running straight 30w oil and filter. Is it possible to consider a new(er) oil pump? Swap the relief valve spring? Check for fuel infiltration into the crankcase? Or leave well enough alone? -OB

Thanks, Greg. I just wanted to show the 230 motor, and I know we all like pics... I'm familiar with the difference of a road draft tube and breather assembly ?

OK, thanks for the clarification, guys. I'll set up a PVC system, as I'm not sure that I can get some fresh air in there when I'm running less than 35 mph...

Hello, gents- on my Dodge 230 motor, the draft tube was beat up and bent near the end, so I cut the bent portion off, but am now wondering... How much tube is 'adequate' to vent those crankcase gasses? I have leaks at the fuel pump gasket, the dipstick, and the valve covers. Not an issue, but I wonder if I'm over-pressurizing the motor with only a 6 inch tube?